Abstract
Women from diverse ethnic/racial backgrounds have higher chronic disease mortality rates when compared to White non-Hispanic women. Community-based programs, such as beauty salons, have been used to reach diverse ethnic/racial women, yet little is known about diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists' involvement in health promotion and their health behaviors, which is the purpose of this review. The growing beauty salon health promotion literature indicates that their roles in these studies have been varied, not only as health promoters but also as recruiters, facilitators, and in general major catalysts for investigator-initiated studies. However, the review also identified a major void in the literature in that there were few studies on health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists, especially African American women cosmetologists. Recommendations include increasing the capacity of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists as community health leaders and investigating their health status, knowledge, attitudes, and practices.
Introduction
Women from diverse ethnic/racial backgrounds have high disease burden for chronic diseases, which is an ongoing major concern in USA. For example, African American, American Indian/Alaska Native, and Hispanic women lead age-adjusted death rates for diabetes (38.6, 30.4, and 22.9 per 100,000) and for all cancers (171.2, 139.0, and 101.2 per 100,000, respectively) when compared to White non-Hispanic women (16.0 and 92.1, respectively). 1 African American women in particular carry a high disease burden. Using cardiovascular disease (CVD) as an example, national data show that this population has higher mortality rates attributed to CVD (248.6 per 100,000) compared to Caucasian women (188.1). 2 Furthermore, 2009 data show that African American women have the highest mortality rates for stroke (50.2 per 100,000) when compared to women from other ethnic/racial backgrounds (White non-Hispanic 37.0, Asian/Pacific Islander 29.6, Hispanic 28.0, and American Indian/Alaska Native 24.6). 1 Clearly, diverse ethnic/racial women, especially African Americans, are at high risk for these chronic diseases. Positive health behaviors, including health care use, are associated with preventing and/or delaying the onset of these diseases.1,2
Healthy People 2020 recommends that comprehensive, community-driven approaches be used to reach underserved populations in natural settings. 3 Beauty salons are places where women not only receive services but also foster ongoing relationships with cosmetologists. As natural helpers, cosmetologists can have free-flowing, informal conversations in a setting that is conducive to information dissemination.4–6 Thus, cosmetologists increasingly have been used as health promoters to assist in the delivery of health information. However, although women cosmetologists have served as promoters, the extent to which diverse ethnic/racial cosmetologists have been studied in terms of their health promotion involvement and health behaviors is unclear. A recent literature review focused on beauty salons and barber shops as settings for research, including feasibility, recruitment, and interventions. 6 However, no reviews could be found that focused specifically on diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists, the role they play as health promoters, and their health behaviors. This focus is of increasing importance given the continued concern regarding the health of diverse ethnic/racial women, especially African American women, and the need for health behavior change in this population.1,2
Diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists could potentially play a pivotal role in the process of improving health of this population not only as health promoters but also as role models for health.4,7 Thus, the purpose of this article was to review the existing literature on health promotion and health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists, with an attention to African American cosmetologists. Specific questions addressed in this review included: (1) What is the involvement of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists in health promotion? (2) What are the health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists? and (3) To what extent are African American women cosmetologists considered in the health promotion and health behaviors literature?
Methods
To conduct this review of literature, the Academic Search Complete database, a comprehensive, multidisciplinary full-text database, with more than 7,000 peer-reviewed journals, was used. Supplemental reviews were conducted using Google Scholar, PubMed, and Web of Knowledge, among others. For this review, two substantive areas for this article were used in the search process (health promotion and health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists). Literature databases from 1995 to 2015 were examined by applying the following algorithm: (cosmetologist*) and (health* or public health* diverse ethnic/racial women* or health promotion* or health behaviors* or health activities* or health education* or lifestyles* or physical activities*). Because African American women cosmetologists were of particular interest in this review, a separate search was conducted (African American* women). This process yielded 91 journal articles. The references of these articles were then reviewed by the first author, and those related to the article's focus were retrieved for possible incorporation into the article. This process resulted in 21 articles, which were further reviewed by both authors for use in this article. Sixteen articles were selected, and five articles were excluded due to not meeting the inclusion criteria sufficiently. Because very few articles were found, selected mixed gender studies were included in this review. In order to create a detailed analysis of the studies selected for inclusion in the article, a synthesis matrix was created by extracting and summarizing key data from the included studies (information not shown).
Review of Literature
This review was organized using the substantive focus of this article: health promotion and health behaviors of cosmetologists. For health promotion, defined broadly as “the process of enabling people to increase control over and improve their health,” 8 articles were organized by health content area. In addition, each description highlights the type of research, characteristics of the cosmetologists, and role of cosmetologists in health promotion. For health behaviors, defined as “knowledge, attitudes, and practices that contribute to actions regarding improving health and well-being,” 9 articles were organized by an identified behavior category.
Health promotion and cosmetologists
This section includes articles in the following areas: cancer prevention, chronic disease prevention, and general health. Given the mortality rates for cancer for diverse ethnic/racial women, it is not surprising that the majority of studies related to beauty salon health promotion were focused on cancer prevention. One major effort conducted by the University of North Carolina was the
The first article focuses on gaining a better understanding of the needs, interests, and preferences of African American cosmetologists in delivering cancer prevention information to clients.
10
This descriptive study used survey methodology with a convenience sample (
The second article was an observational study to gain insight into naturally occurring conversations between cosmetologists and their customers and to assess features of the salon environment that might be used to inform the development of salon-based cancer prevention interventions. 11 The study was conducted in 10 privately owned beauty salons (five Caucasian and five African American) in the Raleigh-Durham and Chapel Hill, NC, USA, area. No characteristics of the cosmetologists were provided, and the role of the cosmetologists was to perform normal duties while being observed by trained staff. The study found that 18% of the 836 recorded passages included discussion of health-related topics with little variation by race of clientele (17.4% in African American salons and 19% in Caucasian salons). There were observed differences in the physical layout of the beauty salons, with African American salons having relatively open designs and waiting areas (no partitions), which facilitated social interaction, and some of the Caucasian salons having less openness (with partitions).
The third article reports the outcomes of a seven-week pilot study in a small county in North Carolina to test the feasibility of (a) recruiting and training licensed cosmetologists and (b) delivering the health intervention to clients (
Three additional breast cancer prevention studies focused on cosmetologists promoting health with others. Wilson et al
13
assessed the effectiveness of hair stylists as lay health advisors in promoting breast health of African American and Afro-Caribbean women in low-income areas of Brooklyn, NY, USA. The study incorporated a quasiexperimental pre/post-design with comparison group. Twenty-nine cosmetologists who completed training participated in the study. The majority were African American or Afro-Caribbean (92% including 52% were born in the Caribbean). The role of the cosmetologist was to participate in two two-hour trainings and to serve as health promoters regarding breast health. Cosmetologists were provided with a reference handbook and ongoing technical support. The majority of cosmetologists were very willing to discuss breast health prior to the training (96%) but were slightly less willing (85%) to follow the training. In addition, after the training, 59% felt very well prepared, and 41% felt somewhat well prepared. More of the beauty salon clients (
Sadler et al
14
conducted a feasibility study to evaluate the utility of having cosmetologists deliver a breast health education program to their clients. Eight female African American cosmetologists in San Diego, CA, USA, participated in the study, with four randomly assigned to an active breast education program using storytelling techniques (active arm) and four to a passive health education program on weight control, exercise, and tobacco use (passive arm). The majority of Black female clients (≥34 years,
Sadler et al15–17 also conducted a study reported in several articles that used 20 stylists recruited by African American clergy and female lay church leaders in San Diego, CA, USA, to determine African American women's (
Beyond breast health education, three studies focused on using cosmetologists to promote the prevention of or screenings for other forms of cancer. Dorman et al
18
evaluated cosmetologists' knowledge, motivation, and skills following a two-hour skin cancer prevention and early detection program entitled
Reiter and Linnan
19
investigated the cancer screening behaviors of African American women (
Aside from cancer, chronic disease prevention was the focus of three studies. Kleindorfer et al 21 used a pre/postintervention design to educate African American women on stroke risk factors and warning signs in Cincinnati, OH, USA, and Atlanta, GA, USA. The study utilized 22 African American cosmetologists who were aged over 40 years (68%) and had attended some college (82%). The cosmetologists who participated in a luncheon training session recruited Black women to participate in the study, administered the survey, and then educated the clients while styling their hair on stroke warning signs and risk factors. At the end of the appointment, cosmetologists distributed a packet that included brochures describing stroke, heart healthy cookbooks, and a wallet card with the warning signs of stroke. The results showed that knowledge of at least three warning signs increased from 40.7% at baseline to 50.6% at five-month follow-up. However, no significant change was noted in the knowledge of risk factors between baseline and follow-up (16.5% and 18.2% respectively).
To address kidney disease, a condition that disproportionately affects African Americans due to high rates of diabetes and hypertension in this population, Madigan et al
22
describe
Finally, the study of Sadler et al 15 on African American women in San Diego, CA, USA, reported earlier in this article, found that only 32% had been screened for diabetes in the past year and only 19% were able to correctly identify at least one warning sign of diabetes.
In terms of general health, a study conducted by Johnson et al
23
investigated the effectiveness of a beauty salon-based health intervention in improving diet, physical activity, and water consumption in African American women. This quasiexperimental study used a pre/posttest with comparison group design with a random sample of African American women (
Finally, two recent studies concerning general health were explored using cosmetologists to facilitate health promotion on the topics of concern. Leader conducted a study to assess change in knowledge, awareness, and intentions to vaccinate against human papillomavirus (HPV) of African American women (
Ahlers-Schmidt et al
25
evaluated the feasibility of using cosmetologists as health promoters for infant safe sleep to reduce infant mortality. Cosmetologists (
Health behaviors of cosmetologists
In this section, we highlight studies identified concerning health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists using the reviewed articles that matched our search criteria. Following this discussion, we also present a synthesis of related articles identified using broader populations. These articles provide information that may have implications for diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists.
There is limited information about the health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists in the articles reviewed. Two studies reported the perceived health rating of cosmetologists. Linnan et al
10
found that 61% of the cosmetologists studied (
With regard to studies using broader populations of cosmetologists that might inform work on diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists, articles were found on a range of topics. Three recent studies explored low birth weight, preterm infant births, and/or maternal complications with a diverse samples of cosmetologists, two in New York state26,27 (
Discussion
The purpose of this article was to review the existing literature on health promotion and health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists with attention to African American women. Table 1 presents a summary of key results regarding the review on health promotion. With regard to content, of the 16 articles that involved health promotion and diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists, 10 articles were focused on cancer prevention, and only three articles were focused each on chronic disease prevention and on general health. Although not surprising, considering the funding levels and infrastructures available for cancer research, 34 this skewness toward cancer is at odds with the national health status data that highlights higher mortality rates for CVD and related risk due to diabetes and obesity. To be fair, some of the cancer prevention strategies around diet and exercise highlighted12,22 would go a long way in preventing CVD and diabetes. However, bringing awareness about these chronic diseases is equally important. As noted in Sadler et al's work, only 31% of the women studied perceived heart disease as a major health problem.
Diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists' involvement in health promotion.
Reflects more than one possible role per study.
The type of research conducted included four feasibility studies, one observational study, five descriptive studies, four pre/poststudies without control group, and two quasiexperimental studies (Table 1). Of concern is the extent to which the field has not evolved further to include more rigorous methodologies. Of the two experimental studies reviewed, one had a very small sample. 23 Wilson et al's 13 study was the only large, quasiexperimental study in the literature thus far. 13 Linnan et al's 6 recent article agrees with this assessment in relation to the broader beauty salon and barbershop studies examined in their review.
With regard to characteristics of the cosmetologists, of the 16 articles reviewed, most of the studies included African American cosmetologists, either implied (
Perhaps the most concern regarding the role of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists was the passive nature of their involvement. In most of the studies, they were being observed, responding, facilitating, or distributing. They were not the community leaders around health promotion, which is in contrast to studies in other community-based organizations, such as churches where pastors have become community leaders for health.35–37 Part of this is due to the nature of the organization (beauty salons are businesses after all) but also the approach taken by investigators. It is noted that some of the investigators have used gold standard community-based participatory research approaches and in the process built cosmetologists as community leaders for health.4,5,7,10–13,15–17,38 Yet clearly more work needs to be done to raise the level of community health leadership among cosmetologists.
The review results regarding health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists can be summarized as slim at best. Within the 16 studies examined concerning health promotion and cosmetologists, two reported data on perceived health, four reported data on health interest/comfort reporting health, and two reported data on improving health knowledge. Studies investigating cosmetologists from broader populations note concerns regarding occupational health related to low weight, preterm and maternal complications, eating disorders and body attitudes, and environmental issues regarding exposure to chemicals. Yet diverse ethnic/racial women were not included in these studies in any substantial way. Although it might follow that the health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists would be similar to diverse ethnic/racial women in general, this review points out that their perceived health ratings were in the good to very good category and that they largely connected health and beauty. Furthermore, it is interesting that only one study screened cosmetologists prior to their involvement in the research to check on their attempts to change health behaviors. 23
Finally, this review shows that African American women cosmetologists as a group are understudied in health promotion, especially in health behavior research. Only two studies were identified that solely included African American women cosmetologists, and no study directly investigated the health behaviors of this group. This is of particular concern given the health issues of African American women. Clearly, we need to know more about African American women cosmetologists and the role they can play in improving their health behaviors.
With regard to implications, there are future directions to be considered as a result of this review. First, the literature on lay health leaders indicates that fidelity is improved if the full treatment implementation includes receipt (participant understanding and demonstrating knowledge/ability to use treatment skills) and enactment (degree to which participant applies treatment skills learned to daily life).
39
Lay health leaders not experiencing
A second future direction concerns the engagement process with diverse ethnic/racial cosmetologists, especially raising their visibility as community health leaders. Clearly, consistent with community-based participatory research approaches and as highlighted by Sadler et al,15–17 Browne et al,7,13,38 and Linnan et al,4,5,10–12 engagement needs to be initiated long before a study is being conceptualized to develop ongoing relationships, identify needs, and develop mutually beneficial initiatives. Furthermore, more work is needed in the engagement process to bring diverse ethnic/racial cosmetologists into broader community groups that are advocating health. However, there are ongoing challenges in engaging cosmetologists, including their long work hours and the need to focus their time on running businesses. 10 One strategy might be to use those community groups to identify possible cosmetologist leaders as Sadler et al15–17 demonstrated. For example, diverse ethnic/racial cosmetologists are involved in community organizations, such as churches and neighborhood associations. Moreover, community group members are consumers of cosmetology themselves and may view their own cosmetologist as a possible community health leader. In bringing diverse ethnic/racial cosmetologists into these broader community groups, the community can learn about barriers, hear about their ideas for promoting health in their businesses, which can serve as the basis for innovations, and together forge partnerships to improve health in the community.
This review has both strengths and limitations. A key strength is that it is the first review of literature, to our knowledge, that highlights the health promotion involvement and health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists. Specifically, this review has identified a growing body of research concerning the cosmetologist as health promoter and teased out some of the key information regarding diverse ethnic/racial women's involvement. The study also attempted to review extant literature on health behaviors of this population as well which was hampered by the clear lack of available studies. Limitations of the review include not expanding to other literature sources, including dissertations, reports from community-based organizations, and other available data that might expand our knowledge base regarding diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists. Furthermore, the settings for expanded hair choices, including for example braiding, dreadlocks, and other natural options for African Americans, were not included in this review and clearly need to be considered based on current diverse hair style preferences.
Conclusion
This review has highlighted the involvement of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists in health promotion research. Their roles have been varied, not only as health promoters but also as recruiters, facilitators, and in general major catalysts for investigator-initiated studies. It is recommended that work continue to engage African American women cosmetologists to grow their leadership in community health. This can be done through increasing efforts to use community-based participatory research approaches where these cosmetologists can increasingly become coleaders in all elements of the research process and key partners within broader community groups. This review also identifies a major void in the literature on health behaviors of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists. It is clear that investigators have been concerned about involving these individuals in intervention studies and determining the feasibility to do so. Thus, it is recommended that research be undertaken to learn more about the health status, knowledge, attitudes, and practices of diverse ethnic/racial women cosmetologists and to identify programs that might improve their health and grow their stature as role models for health in the community. Finally, it is recommended that, considering the health issues of African American women, specific investigations focus on this population in terms of health promotion and health behaviors. Clearly, the health issues of diverse ethnic/racial women could be proactively addressed by empowered cosmetologists working shoulder to shoulder with other community partners to improve the health of this important population.
Author Contributions
Conceived the article: NT. Wrote the first draft of the article: NT. Contributed to the writing of the article: PR. Jointly developed the structure and arguments for the article: NT and PR. Made critical revisions and approved the final version: PR. All authors reviewed and approved the final article.
Footnotes
Acknowledgments
The authors wish to express their thanks to Michelle Maxwell, MS, RD, and Stephanie Poteau, BS, who developed earlier papers for courses at Florida State University that informed this research, including
