Abstract
This research is focused on the influence of constructional parameters such as the type of weave and density on deformability of pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics. In the research, two basic weaves were used: the plain and twill weave without (pure cotton) and with 6.2 percent of elastane in the weft direction. The density of the warp yarns was before bleaching 22yarns/cm and after end treatment (bleaching) from 24 to 31 yarns/cm. The chosen densities in the weft direction were 17 and 20 yarns/cm.
The fabrics were cyclically loaded with maximum load 17.66 N. The non-recoverable deformation was measured after 30 seconds of relaxation after the fourth cycle of loading, according to ASTM D 3107–75.
The research results show that elastane incorporation significantly decreased the non-recoverable deformation after loading. In the case of the twill weave, the decrease of non-recoverable deformation was from around 20% – twill without elastane to around 5% – twill with elastane – fabrics 7B and 8B. The non-recoverable deformation level decrease with fabrics in plain weave was also significant (from around 24% – plain without elastane to around 12% – plain with elastane). From the results of non-recoverable deformation, it is clearly seen that the chosen type of weave, plain and twill, significantly influenced the non-recoverable deformation level.
The increase of density in the weft direction from 17 yarns/cm to 20 yarns/cm for pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics insignificantly influenced the non-recoverable deformation level. This means that the density increase of 3 yarns/cm is too low to significantly influence the deformability of pure cotton and cotton/elastane fabrics.