Research on the structure and performance of multicomponent weft-knitted double-face fabrics with zero wet-cooling sensation

Abstract

This study introduces a structurally engineered double-face knitted fabric for directional moisture transfer without chemical modification. By integrating ultrafine polyester (PET), polyethylene (PE), wool, and spandex, a gradient capillary network was constructed, utilizing three-dimensional fiber porosity to enable moisture regulation. A standardized methodology was used to systematically evaluate key performance indicators (including one-way transmission index (OWT), air permeability, and moisture permeability): quantification of unidirectional transport capacity by a moisture management tester (MMT), measurement of evaporation rate under controlled conditions (20°C, 60% relative humidity), and measurement of surface temperature changes during sweating by thermography. The results showed that the double-face structure consisting of an inner side of ordinary fibers and an outer side of ultrafine fibers generates a capillary pressure gradient, which allows for a rapid transfer of moisture from the inner to the outer layer (OWT of more than 600% for some samples). The high porosity (80–88%) and lightweight structure (≤180 g/m²) further enhanced the evaporative cooling effect, achieving 0.6–0.8°C skin surface temperature reduction in 120 s compared with conventional PET double-face fabric (∼2.5°C). Comprehensive performance evaluation showed that the optimized design balanced air permeability, moisture permeability, and evaporation rate. This work demonstrates a chemical-free fabric engineering design strategy for directional moisture transfer, which can be applied to high-performance sportswear and medical textiles where effective sweat regulation is required.