Abstract
Washability is seen as one of the main obstacles that stands in the way of a wider market success of e-textile products. So far, there are no standardized methods for wash testing of e-textiles and no protocols to comparably assess the washability of tested products. Thus, different e-textiles that are deemed equally washable by their developers might present with very different ranges of reliability after repeated washing. This paper presents research into current test practices in the absence of e-textile-specific standards. Different testing methods are compared and evaluated and the need for standardized testing, giving e-textile developers the tools to comparably communicate and evaluate their products’ washability, is emphasized.
Textile-integrated conductive materials or electronics, also referred to as smart textiles or e-textiles, are a rapidly growing class of products. These hybrid e-textiles can be characterized as textile products with additional functionality provided by the electronic or electrically conductive components. Examples of these added functions are sensors, lighting, heating, stimulation, or recording of internal or external parameters. Simultaneously, e-textiles constitute electronic products with additional—textile typical—requirements, resulting from integration into a textile base. This is especially true for
The need for integrated conductive and electronic components to exhibit a level of washability comparable to their textile substrates also arises from a growing demand for more sustainability. The production of a cotton or polyester shirt alone entails about 4 kg of CO2. 7 This impact from the textile base is further increased by the integrated electronic or conductive components. Thus, from a sustainability viewpoint, great care has to be taken to keep the system functioning and in use for as long as possible, reducing the need for replacement. For cyclically used textiles—a use phase followed by a cleaning process that restores the product’s serviceability—this need for an extended lifetime requires the product to be as robust as possible to the strain resulting from the washing or cleaning processes. The complex composition of e-textiles makes this much more challenging than for textile-only products, because all components, with their very different vulnerabilities, have to withstand the cleaning process. 8
To assess, improve, and evaluate the extent of an e-textile’s reliability when subjected to repeated washing procedures, test cycles have to be run. A reliable comparability of different e-textiles’ washability—important, among other things, to communicate to consumers—is only possible if this testing is done under defined circumstances following similar or even standardized protocols. So far, no proper standards exist that allow for such comparisons. In the absence of e-textile-specific washing standards, test protocols from adjacent fields, in more or less modified form—textile standards being the most common—are used to assess the washability. Or, in lieu of standardized methods, individually designed test protocols are applied to appraise washability.
6
Because of this great variability of methods, comparability of different test results is low/limited. In many cases, the tested products are deemed
This article aims at gaining insight into and analyzing current wash testing practices for smart and e-textiles. A short overview of existing standards for e-textiles precedes a review of scientific publications featuring wash testing of e-textiles. The information about the particular test practices given in the reviewed sources is often incomplete. This can be attributed to wash testing not being the central matter of most publications, but rather one of several reliability tests run to assess a newly developed product or technology—often the main focus of the reviewed publications.
Current situation in standardization
The number of existing standards especially conceived for hybrid e-textiles to date is very low. Of the existing ones, most cover either terminology and/or definitions like ISO/PRF TR 23383 and ASTM D 8248:2020. Others give test methods for resistance measurement of textile-based products: AATCC 76 for fabrics, AATCC 84 for yarns, and CSN EN 16812 for conductive tracks on textiles (see Table 1). IPC-8921 provides terms and definitions, as well as a method for testing the resistance of conductive textile materials. There are current efforts to overcome this lack of e-textile-specific standardization, though. Several other standards are anticipated to be finalized within the next few years (some examples are given in Table 1). These are expected to improve the situation by covering a wider range of issues, including reliability and washability (like IPC 9881 and IEC 63203 204-1).
Existing, upcoming, and external standards for e-textiles
The most commonly used standard from adjacent fields when testing the washability of e-textiles is ISO 6330 Textiles—domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing. 6 Within this standard, a range of household washing and drying procedures are given, reflecting the variety of actual household washing programs. The standard provides testing conditions and instructions for the three most common types of washing machines: horizontal-drum front-loading machines, predominant in Europe, and agitator or impeller type vertical-drum top-loading machines found mainly in America and Asia, respectively. 11 The scope of the standard includes not only textiles, but also “other textile articles”—a term that can be applied to hybrid smart or e-textiles—allowing for the standard to be extended for their testing. Not included in the standard are guidelines or recommendations concerning the number of wash cycles that should be conducted nor criteria on how washing reliability can be assessed after testing. Other less often applied standards include ISO 105-C01:1989 Textiles: tests for color fastness—part C01: color fastness to washing, ISO 15797:2017 Textiles: industrial washing and finishing procedures for testing of workwear, and AATCC 61 Colorfastness to laundering: accelerated.
Although presently not (yet) used for e-textile testing, another standard worth mentioning is IEC 60456:2010 Clothes washing machines for household use—methods for measuring the performance. This standard’s scope is not textile wash testing, but the evaluation of washing machines. Included are testing protocols for household washing programs
Washability test practices
A literature review of publications about e-textile development or reliability has been carried out to evaluate current wash testing protocols for e-textiles. A total of 73 publications that include a section on wash testing have been selected to serve as a basis for this analysis. Although extensive, this selection is not an exhaustive representation of e-textile wash testing. Since the focus of this article is to evaluate the current testing situation, only research published in 2010 or later has been considered. The reviewed sources have been clustered into four groups according to the employed test practices (due to extensive testing with different methods, two sources have been included in both the wash testing according to ISO 6330 (31 publications); wash testing according to other standards (13 publications); wash testing under household washing conditions (19 publications); wash testing with alternative test methods (12 publications).
The assessment of washability depends on the intended application of the tested product as well as its projected frequency of cleaning and total number of cleaning cycles during its lifetime. 6 Underwear or sports clothing, products that will be washed after (almost) every use phase—and under sufficiently harsh conditions to ensure hygiene requirements are met—need to be much more robust to washing-related strain than a jacket that will only be cleaned once or twice per year. To determine if and how product types influence the washability test practices for e-textiles, the type of tested product is included in the analysis.
This evaluation of e-textile wash testing practices does not include testing performed by e-textile producers. Those test practices could differ from the surveyed literature sources, but are rarely disclosed to the public.
Testing according to ISO 6330
The following section gives an overview of 31 publications that include wash testing of e-textiles according to ISO 6330, 1 ,12–41 (Table 2). From the sources that state the standard version used, 16 follow the newest 2012 version, and 11 the previous 2000 version.
According to ISO 6330, the test vehicles should be washed in a standard-compliant washing machine (vertical or horizontal axis). For a total of 2 kg, additional base load (cotton, cotton–polyester blend, or polyester, depending on the textile material of the test vehicles) has to be added to the machine. The test vehicles should not account for more than half of the total load. One of six standardized detergents, the amount varying with the type of machine and detergent used, has to be added to the machine and one of various given wash programs—differing in their harshness—has to be run. Table 3 shows the ranges of the washing factors for each of the machine types. Afterwards, the test vehicles should be subjected to one of six given drying methods. 11 Further instructions are given as to how the test vehicles should be prepared and conditioned, as well as specifications for the water hardness. Neither the number of wash cycles nor a method to evaluate the washability of the tested samples are provided by the standard.
Wash testing according to ISO 6330a
aBlank spaces indicate non-disclosed information. bR: change in resistance; c: change in characteristic; f: change in or loss of function. cHH: household washing machine (not further specified), HH front: horizontal axis front-loading household washing machine, HH top: vertical axis top-loading household washing machine. dCO: cotton; PES: polyester. eThe washing program only refers to ISO 6330 washing programs. The program labels from the 2000 version of the standard were transferred to their 2012 version counterparts to make for easier comparison.
Washing factor ranges for ISO 633042
Wash testing according to other standardsa
aBlank spaces indicate non-disclosed information. bR: change in resistance; c: change in characteristic; f: change in or loss of function. cHH: household washing machine (not further specified), HH front: horizontal axis front-loading household washing machine, HH top: vertical axis top-loading household washing machine.
A large majority of the sources test conductive textile material (yarn, filaments, or textiles) integrated into a textile base substrate by different methods (knitting, sewing, weaving, embroidering, laminating) or conductive pastes, inks, or coatings applied to textiles. In many cases, these conductive elements are shaped into antennas, electrodes, or conductive tracks. A commonality between those tested products is that they can be considered semi-finished goods, but not fully functional e-textile systems. Some of the examined products have a more complex composition than mere conductive material: Gerhold and Tao et al. test conductive tracks with added LEDs, 17 , 38 while Ojuroye et al. and Komolafe et al. subject sensors, LEDs, and other modules embedded on kapton-filaments to repeated washing. 25 , 31 Satharasinghe et al. test their e-yarn equipped with miniaturized solar cells for washability. 34 Only one fully functional system, a fire-fighter suit, is among the tested products. 14
Even though there is no reference given in the standard on how to assess the washability after testing, a similar method is chosen in many of the presented examples from the literature. In 22 of the reviewed sources, a change in resistance after (repeated) washing is used to rate the washability of the tested product. Three of these use more than one method for their assessment. 12 , 23 , 33 Washability is also evaluated through changes in the functionality of components or the whole structure, 14 , 18 , 25 , 31 , 34 , 41 as well as altered sensor and antenna properties or characteristics. 12 , 22 , 23 , 26 , 29 , 33 In one instance, the quality of integration is included as a measure for washability: Vervust et al. test their washed samples for delamination. 41 As mentioned above, a large share of the tested e-textiles are not fully functioning systems, but rather single components such as conductive textiles or conductive threads, as well as sensors or antennas without connected modules. For these components, testing for a change in resistance or conductivity is a valid method to assess their washability. In the case of complete, fully functional devices (especially with more complex components present than just conductive textile materials), other parameters have to be used to fully assess the system’s washability. Changes in or (partial) loss of function, changes in sensor or antenna properties, methods already employed by some of the reviewed sources, might provide a better choice.
Another aspect of testing not covered in the standard is the number of wash cycles that should be run to test a product’s washability: only the conditions and procedures are provided. The average number of cycles run in this cluster is 19, but there is a large variation in the number of conducted test cycles (see Table 2): Martinez-Estrada et al. wash their test samples only twice, while Liang et al. test for three cycles. 26 , 29 In contrast, five sources have conducted 50 wash cycles, four of which stem from the University of Lille. 12 , 30 , 38 , 40 Gerhold does not run a predetermined number of cycles, but instead stops testing at the first occurrence of detached components, after 16 cycles. 17 Depending on the type of e-textile and its intended use, the number of wash cycles that a product should be able to withstand without function- or security-compromising damage changes. 1 The difference in number of test cycles could be attributed to this connection. Yet, none of the sources relate the number of cycles to the foreseen use of the tested e-textile. Liang et al. rather claim their stretch sensor provides sufficient washability after testing for only three wash cycles, even though the sensor will be integrated into a dance leotard—a product likely to be washed after each or at least every second use—leading to much higher washing requirements than only three cycles. 26
Compliance of the reviewed test methods with the specifications of the standard
Even though all sources in this cluster claim to test according to ISO 6330, the degree of conformity with the testing instructions provided by the standard varies considerably. The evaluation of testing procedures from each cited source reveals pronounced differences in practices, even though the same standard is used as a basis. Hardy et al.,
18
Kazani et al.,
21,22
Linz,
27
Schwarz,
35
and Tadesse et al.
36
,
37
are among those who follow specifications quite closely. Others rather use the standard as a rough guideline for wash testing.
While some sources claim to wash according to a specific standard program, they use a regular (typically non-programmable) household washing machine. These machines do not normally feature the standard programs within their range of available washing programs. It is unclear if the 6330 programs are indeed installed in the machines used for testing. Another possibility is that these sources rather employ a regular household washing program resembling the stated standard program—like Komolafe et al., who explain that their program is only similar, but not identical to program 6A.
25
Ojuroye et al.
31
and uz Zaman et al.
39
,
40
use multiple household washing programs including Most sources do not elaborate on the reasons for choosing a specific test program. Linz bases their choice of program 6A/4M on research into standard programs most often employed in e-textiles wash testing.
27
Ojuroye et al. test their touch and proximity sensor with three household washing programs that represent “typical washing programs for textiles.”
31
Evaluation of the testing methods in this cluster reveals significant disparities even when the same standard is claimed to be used as a basis. Most sources follow the standard only partly—maybe attributed to the available resources and their degree of compliance with standard requirements. Publications from the same institutions show some similarities in wash testing, but there is still variation.
Testing according to other standards
Apart from ISO 6330, other standards that are used as a basis for e-textile wash testing include ISO 105 Textiles—tests for color fastness,43–45 DIN 54015 Testing of color fastness of textiles—determination of color fastness of dyeings and prints to washing in presence of peroxide, 43 AATCC 61 Colorfastness to laundering: accelerated,46–50 AATCC 6 Colorfastness to acids and alkalis, 51 and AATCC 135 Dimensional changes of fabrics after home laundering,52– 55 (Table 4).
Similar to the previous cluster, most of the tested products are conductive textiles or textiles coated with conductive paste or ink. In two cases, the washability of a tribo-electric nanogenerator is assessed. 54 , 55 Liu et al. test conductive yarn knitted into underpants to monitor incontinence, 46 Quandt et al. and Trindade et al. test textile sensors, 44 , 45 and Xu et al. test an antenna. 49 None of the tested products represents a fully functional system: further components or modules are not included in the testing.
The majority of the sources in this cluster use a change in resistance as an indicator for the washability of the tested products—comparable to the results on testing according to ISO 6330. Of those that provide their method for assessing washability, only Quandt et al. do not use resistance as an indicator; instead, they rely on a change in sensor characteristics. 44
If testing is done according to the American standards AATCC 135 and AATCC M6, a top-loading washing machine is employed (the predominant type in the USA). Testing according to AATCC 61 is not conducted in a regular washing machine, but in laboratory testing equipment similar to the previously mentioned Datacolor Ahiba IR. Quandt et al. also use a laboratory testing device, the Roaches Washtec color fastness tester. 44 Unlike all other wash testing reviewed in this research, the method given in AATCC 61 is an accelerated test, with one cycle equivalent to five regular-machine washing cycles, according to the standard. Acceleration is achieved by the addition of steel or rubber balls to the washing container. 56 The applicability of such harsh treatment for e-textiles has to be assessed, however. Colorfastness, the original scope of the standard, is not inconsiderably affected by friction on the textile surface, so the additional wear generated by the balls can lead to accelerated color loss. For e-textiles that are more susceptible to mechanical damage, this method might not be suitable—especially for products more complex than mere conductive textiles.
The washing temperatures are slightly higher than in the previous cluster, with a mean temperature of 46,2°C. As with the tests according to ISO 6330, 40°C is most prevalent. High washing temperatures of 60°C and more are solely employed by Frank and Bauch 43 and only three of the cited sources wash with less than 30°C. 51 , 54 , 55
Air-drying is more common than tumble-drying. In cases where detergent use is elaborated on, powdered detergent is used except for Xu et al., who also add softener along with liquid detergent. 49
A single wash cycle in this cluster has a duration of between 20 and 45 min. The exemptions are Frank and Bauch, who run cycles of different lengths and temperatures, among them cycles with a duration of 4 h, 43 and Sala de Medeiros et al. who wash for 50 cycles of only 8 min each. 54 The average number of cycles is 22, similar to 19 in the ISO 6330 cluster. If each cycle of the accelerated tests according to AATCC 61 is counted as five cycles, the average cycle count within the cluster of tests according to other standards rises to 40.
Liu et al. give good washability as a requirement for their incontinence monitoring pants as it is projected to be washed frequently during its use.
46
Due to the results of their testing, several of the sources claim their product features satisfactory,
53
unprecedented,
47
or a good level of
55
washability, while others only deem the tested e-textiles
Testing under household washing conditions
This cluster contains testing conducted in household washing machines (top-loading vertical axis and front-loading horizontal axis) without a standard as a guideline. Testing parameters for each of the sources can be found in Table 5.57–75
Wash testing under household conditionsa
aBlank spaces indicate non-disclosed information. bR: change in resistance; c: change in characteristic; f: change in or loss of function. cHH: household washing machine (not further specified), HH front: horizontal axis front-loading household washing machine, HH top: vertical axis top-loading household washing machine.
Wash testing with alternative methods.a
ablank spaces indicate non-disclosed information. bR: change in resistance, c: characteristic.
The tested e-textiles are mainly conductive textiles or sensors, electrodes, antennas, and RFID tags made from conductive textile material without further components. Janczak et al. test printed electroluminescent displays. 64 Gui et al. and Molla et al. include LEDs, 61 , 67 Zysset et al. use sensor modules on functional polymer filaments, 75 and Tao et al. use electronic components embedded in Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). 70 Consistent with the standard-based testing practices, change in resistance is the predominant parameter to assess washability. Besides an increase in resistance, Berglund et al. include the extent of delamination as a measure for washability, while Gaubert et al. also consider a change in color of the tested metallized textiles. 58 , 60 Changes in functionality or sensor and antenna characteristics are also employed to rate and assess washability.
In almost half the cases where a washing temperature is given, testing is done at 30°C; 40°C has the second highest incidence. Gui et al. wash at 25°C and Kellomäki et al. at 60°C. 61 , 65 Only four sources wash for more than 10 cycles. 57 , 60 , 70 , 72 Both the washing temperatures and the average number of washing cycles are lower, but the average duration of a single cycle is significantly longer (47 min) than in the two previous clusters.
The use of liquid detergent is more common than in standard-based testing. 57 , 60 , 65 , 67 , 68 , 73 , 75 As not all sources provide information about detergent use, this number might be even higher. Air-drying is predominant; a tumble dryer is used only on two occasions. Similar to the results of Hardy et al., the research of Berglund et al. reveals tumble-drying to be more damaging to their stretch sensors than washing. 58
In some cases, test samples are not only washed in a washing machine, but also placed in water (with and without detergent) for an extended amount of time in a parallel test. This is done either to compare results from washing with those from immersion only, or to evaluate the influence of moisture and water on the tested samples separately from washing.
61
,
65
,
68
Additional testing for Gaubert et al. and Tang et al. is so extensive that both sources are also included in the following cluster,
Compared to the previous two clusters, a larger number of sources give reasons for choosing specific washing conditions or test protocols. Ankhili et al., Gaubert et al., Lam et al. and Molla et al. choose a household washing program and machine because they claim that a user will wash their e-textile in a similar manner when using the product. 57 , 60 , 66 , 67 Uz Zaman et al. use commercial instead of standardized detergent because of similar reasoning. 71 Gaubert et al. additionally justify their choice of program by referring to their garment manufacturer client’s specifications, while Zeagler et al. argue that warm washing with regular agitation provides harsher conditions, so if the tested samples withstand this treatment, they would withstand gentler washing as well. 60 , 73 Björninen et al. compare their washing results to those of other publications in which similar e-textiles have been washed for the same amount of washing cycles, implicating a choice of testing parameters based on literary research and the need for comparability. 59
With lower temperatures, longer cycles, and a higher incidence of liquid detergent, testing in this cluster resembles actual (gentle) household washing more closely than the standard
Testing with alternative methods
In some of the sources, wash testing is not conducted in a washing machine, but with alternative methods (Table 6). These methods include placing the samples in water or wash liquor (without further agitation) 60 ,77–81 and stirring the samples in a beaker. 69 , 77 , 82 , 83 Others employ laboratory testing equipment, such as the previously mentioned dyeing unit Datacolor Ahiba, 84 or subject the samples to “continuous mechanical washing.” 85 Lin et al. wash their samples by hand in water without detergent present. 86 Gaubert et al. 60 and Tang et al. 69 also test their samples under household conditions, comparing results. Carey et al. claim their test method represents the industry standard and reference Ren et al., who indeed use a similar method—although they test for only 10 cycles instead of 20 and at a different temperature. 78 , 84 Gorgutsa et al. reason that their method represents common practice and refer to previous studies as well as the manufacturer’s guidelines. 82
The complexity of the tested e-textiles is quite low. As in the three previous clusters, a majority are conductive textiles with no further modules. The solar cells tested by Jinno et al. are among the most complex products in the alternative washing methods cluster. Although Guo et al. test graphene paper, they claim that it constitutes an e-textile. 79 Due to the test set-up of the alternative methods, the test samples in this cluster are washed without any additional load.
In half of the cases, a change in resistance is the indicator for washability—the lowest percentage of all the clusters. Shifts in characteristic properties are utilized just as often. Scheulen et al. only test for occurrence of corrosion in their magnetic contacts. 80
In contrast to the previously mentioned testing procedures, some of the alternative tests run for a considerably longer time, from 12 h up to 1 week. 60 , 69 , 77 , 79 , 80 , 85 The average number of test cycles is lower than for the other clusters, which relates to the number of very long-running tests in which fewer cycles are conducted. Testing temperatures are highest when alternative methods are employed, with an average testing temperature of 47°C; in one-third of the cases the washing temperature is at or above 50°C. 78 , 81 , 82 , 84
The comparability of the alternative methods with actual wash cycles is not sufficiently researched. Only Tang et al. 69 test their samples both by stirring in water and in a household washing machine, while Gaubert et al. compare the household washing results for their conductive textiles with placing them in water with different types and amounts of detergent. 60 Gaubert et al. find in their research that if the tested conductive textiles are only exposed to a single one of the four Sinner’s factors—in their case either chemistry in the form of detergents or mechanical agitation—the resulting damage is quite limited. Not until multiple factors act and interact at the same time do significant losses in conductivity occur. 60 , 69 The methods employed in this cluster are thus (possibly) unreliable for a correct estimation of washability under real usage conditions. This is especially true where samples are just put into water without agitation, and in one case even without detergent. 81 Nevertheless, washability of the tested product is deemed satisfactory in most sources. Cai et al. claim their heating textile is just as washable as regular textiles. 77 To assess the influence of a single factor of the washing process (e.g., water, detergent, or washing temperature), the alternative methods might be able to provide valid results, though.
Critical evaluation of current e-textile wash testing practices
This research on test methods to assess washability of e-textiles reveals a large range of varying practices. Within the following section, the suitability of the employed methods is considered.
Average values for all clusters
atotal washing time = number of cycles · duration. bIf one accelerated test cycle is counted as five regular wash cycles. cIf very long cycles are excluded.
Some of the reviewed papers suggest that alternative test methods (including the standard-based tests not conducted in washing machines) might not be able to provide correct estimates of washability under real washing conditions. Accelerated testing according to AATCC 61 might be equally unreliable—a lack of comparative testing does not allow for a conclusive verdict. The standard (which requires its execution in laboratory testing equipment), although conceived for textile washing tests, is not intended to assess general washability, only colorfastness. The influencing factors that affect colorfastness are not equal to those that affect washability. The standard’s potential for an accurate estimation of washability—especially for e-textiles—is therefore disputable. On the other hand, if the accelerated tests according to AATCC 61 are factored into the average cycle count of the
Taking diverse product requirements into account, a range of testing protocols should exist for e-textiles—not unlike the different washing programs provided by ISO 6330—but the overall variety should be smaller than in the current situation. An e-textile specific wash testing standard will be able to alleviate this lack of comparability.
Conclusion
The presented insight into current e-textile wash testing methods is limited by the researched sources’ lack of fully disclosed methodology on wash testing. Unavailable information on industry practices further narrows the degree of overall understanding of the topic. Despite these limitations, this paper is able to underscore the need for e-textile-specific standardization to overcome the existing lack of comparability between differing employed methods. Even though no proper e-textile standards exist yet, in 60% of the reviewed publications a standard is already used as the basis for their washability testing—with varying degrees of compliance. This number shows that the willingness to use standards is high among researchers.
The currently used standards all stem from the textile field, lacking an adequate consideration of the integrated electrically conductive and electronic components of e-textiles and potential safety concerns that might arise. A future standard should provide a range of washing programs for different kinds of washing devices. These programs should reflect different conceivable use cases for e-textiles concerning cleaning frequency, hygiene requirements, and possible staining. Different requirements stemming from the respective materials and manufacturing methods employed for a specific e-textile need to be considered as well. To allow for a feasible way to estimate long-term washing reliability, accelerated or equivalent test methods will have to be provided as well. The scope of such a standard should include suitable evaluation methods, enabling users of the standard to reliably and comparably assess their product’s washability. To develop such specialized testing methods, more insight into how different washing conditions affect various types of e-textiles is needed—especially if accelerated testing methods are to be developed. Only a joint effort of interdisciplinary experts from all areas involved in e-textile development will lead to suitable standardization.
Footnotes
Declaration of conflicting interests
The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
Funding
The authors received no financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
