Abstract
Natural products or natural compounds has been traditionally used in cosmetics and this paper particularly emphasizes on skin toners. It examines the history of cosmetics, from ancient traditions to the development of modern cosmeceuticals that use plant-based ingredients for therapeutic purposes. The growing consumer demand for herbal toners, driven by a desire for natural and gentle skincare solutions, is highlighted. Herbal toners, which contain botanical extracts such as rose water, chamomile, and green tea, are known for their antioxidant, hydrating, and soothing properties, making them suitable for sensitive skin. The innovative use of nanomaterials in toners, which improves ingredient delivery while raising safety concerns, is also discussed. The paper discusses the benefits of various herbal extracts, including amla, witch hazel, and saffron, as well as other natural ingredients like cucumber and neem, emphasizing their roles in promoting clearer, healthier skin. It also investigates the use of animal, marine, and mineral-based extracts in facial toners, focusing on their hydrating, regenerative, and protective properties. The paper emphasizes the value of natural skincare products for their efficacy, gentleness, and sustainability. It also looks at the mechanisms by which traditional herbs work, such as astringency, anti-inflammatory action, and antioxidant defence, as well as formulation challenges, regulatory considerations, and market trends. Emerging research and innovation in the use of traditional herbs, as well as the exploration of potential new herbs, are highlighted as key drivers of the skincare industry's ongoing evolution, paving the way for future advances in natural and effective skincare solutions.
Keywords
Key Points
Herbal toners provide antioxidant, moisturizing, and calming effects to sensitive skin.
Nanomaterials in toners boost delivery but highlight safety issues.
Natural skincare products are praised for their effectiveness, gentleness, and sustainability.
Introduction
The term “cosmetic” originated from the Greek word “kosm tikos,” which refers to the ability to arrange and decorate. 1 Cosmetics have a long history dating back to humankind's development. In prehistoric times (3000BC), humans used colours to attract animals for hunting and to protect themselves from attacks. 2 They also adorned their bodies to frighten enemies. In the 1990s, cosmetic manufacturers coined the term ‘cosmeceuticals’ to refer to over-the-counter skin care products that claim therapeutic benefits from plant-based active ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acid, retinoic acid, ascorbic acid, and coenzyme Q10. 3
The herbal cosmetics industry has a dark history in Europe and Western countries dating back six centuries. Whitening the face with mixtures and pastes has been a popular practice for over 400 years. Early mixtures used in Europe for this purpose were extremely potent, causing paralysis, strokes, and even death. 4
The term “herbal extracts” refers to the extraction of herbs. Herbal extracts are an ancient methodology, with references found in the holy Vedas and Unani scriptures. Herbal extracts are processed to treat a variety of ailments and provide other health benefits. 5 During the extraction process, the herbs are crushed in a bowl to squeeze out the juice. Later these herbs are mixed with other ingredients to make herbal based cosmetics. Individuals’ skin and hair beauty is influenced by factors such as health, habits, job routines, weather, and maintenance. 6
Plant-based cosmetics rely heavily on their antioxidant properties. The plant's vital constituents fall into three categories: Flavonoids, carotenoids, and polyphenols. The division is based on the type of phytoconstituents. 7 Flavonoids provide chelation and UV light protection, while carotenoids, also known as Vitamin A, contain retinoic acid and are essential for the eyes. 8
Skin toner is a liquid skincare product that is used after cleansing to remove any remaining dirt, oil, or makeup while also balancing the pH of the skin. 9 Toners commonly contain witch hazel, glycerine, aloe vera, and botanical extracts. They can help tighten pores, hydrate the skin, and prepare it to receive serums, moisturizers, and other skincare products. 10 Toners are available in a variety of formulations to accommodate different skin types, such as oily, dry, combination, and sensitive skin, 11 as shown in Figure 1.
Natural Products Used as Skin Toners.
Nanomaterials have emerged as innovative ingredients in face toners, with unique properties and potential skincare benefits. These materials, which typically range in size from 1 to 100 nanometres, exhibit novel physicochemical properties that can improve the performance and efficacy of cosmetic formulations. 12 Nanomaterials are commonly used in face toners because of their ability to improve ingredient delivery, increase skin penetration, and provide targeted skincare benefits. 13
Synthetic Face Toners and Risk Associated with Them
They are widely used for their cleansing properties; they contain various synthetic products such as artificial fragrances and harsh chemicals. They can often lead to various skin issues. 14 The alcohol containing skin toners can affect the skin by causing dryness and flakiness. 15 The addition of artificial preservatives and fragrances can trigger allergic reactions that can lead to swelling and itching. Prolonged use of these chemicals can increase skin sensitivity and making it more reactive to other skin care products. 16 These synthetic toners may provide immediate benefits but they have far more side effects and with time their use can cause permanent damage to the skin.
Need for Herbal Based Skin Toners
The demand for herbal-based face toners has increased in recent years, owing to a shift toward natural skincare solutions. 17 Consumers are increasingly looking for products made with plant-based ingredients, rather than synthetic chemicals and harsh additives found in conventional toners. Herbal toners provide a gentle and nourishing alternative by utilizing the therapeutic properties of botanical extracts, essential oils, and herbal infusions. This gentler approach is especially appealing to people who have sensitive, dry, or reactive skin, as harsher products can cause irritation or dryness. 18 Furthermore, herbal toners represent a holistic approach to skincare, drawing on centuries of tradition and cultural wisdom. Rose water, chamomile, lavender, and green tea are ingredients that not only provide skincare benefits but also evoke a sense of connection to nature and culture heritage. 19
Herbal toners provide antioxidant protection, soothing relief from inflammation, and improved skin tone and texture. Furthermore, herbal toners’ customizable nature enables individuals to address specific concerns and preferences through personalized skincare rituals. 20 As the benefits of herbal ingredients become more widely known, herbal-based face toners are poised to become staples in modern skincare routines, providing a balance of effectiveness, gentleness, and sustainability. 21
Besides the trends of plant-based ingredients, there has also been a significant increase in animal-based, marine-based, and mineral-based natural extract usage in facial toners. They provide unique dermatological benefits and add to the increasing trends of nature-derived skincare. 22 Animal-derived elements like snail mucin, bee venom, royal jelly, and bovine or marine collagen are commonly used due to their regenerative, moisturizing, and anti-aging capabilities. 23 Marine-derived ingredients such as seaweed, algae, fish collagen, and deep-sea water contain vitamins, amino acids, and trace minerals that can detoxify the skin, enhance its elasticity, and hydrate the skin. 24 Meanwhile, mineral components such as zinc oxide, magnesium salts, and thermal spring water exert calming benefits, help sebum balance, and promote the repair of skin barriers. These ingredients usually come from ethically sourced or biotechnologically produced processes to ensure safety and sustainability. 25 The use of such natural components in toner compositions is part of a larger trend toward multifunctional skincare—blending tradition, science, and environmental awareness. As the cosmetics industry increasingly ventures into these varied natural sources, formulations loaded with animal, marine, and mineral ingredients will be able to provide targeted, effective, and well-tolerated skincare treatments. 26
Ancient Cosmetic Practices Across Cultures and Regions
Cosmetic rituals have been a part of human society for thousands of years, with reported evidence from across various geographical areas representing the varied cultural values and standards of beauty. 27 In ancient Egypt, skin care routines used to involve honey, milk, and perfumed essential oils, which were prized for their moisturizing and scented qualities. 28 Indian Ayurvedic texts, particularly the Charaka Samhita and Sushruta Samhita, documented the application of herbal ingredients like turmeric, sandalwood, and rose water to improve the appearance and health of the skin. 29 Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) focused on balance and harmony, using ginseng, pearl powder, and green tea in facial masks and tonics to create a lustrous complexion. 30 At the same time, in Greco-Roman cultures, foods such as olive oil, pounded berries, and clays were employed for purification and skin feeding. Such ancient cosmetic practices went beyond cosmetics—having medicinal, religious, and social purposes. Such ancient experience can greatly contribute to the novel approaches in skincare formulations today, using tried-and-tested botanicals but making them fit today's safety, efficacy, and regulatory requirements. 31
Nanomaterials in Face Toners
Nanomaterials are transforming the skincare industry, particularly in face toners, where their distinct properties offer a variety of advantages. These materials, ranging in size from 1 to 100 nanometres, provide improved ingredient delivery, skin penetration, and targeted skincare effects. 32 Nanomaterials protect active ingredients from degradation by encapsulating them in nano-sized carriers, ensuring their sustained release onto the skin. 33 Furthermore, their small size allows for deeper penetration into the skin's layers, resulting in more efficient delivery of hydrating agents, antioxidants, and other beneficial compounds. 34 Furthermore, nanomaterials can be tailored to address specific skin concerns, such as wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, or acne, providing a more precise and effective skincare solution. 35 Despite these advantages, concerns remain about the safety and regulatory oversight of nanomaterials in cosmetics, 36 as shown in Figure 2. The nano meter scale of nanoparticles is a cause for concern regarding systemic absorption, cytotoxicity, and tissue accumulation that may translate into long-term safety hazards. 37 Additionally, the absence of clear regulatory guidelines regarding nano formulations in cosmetics contributes to uncertainty. 38 (12) It is crucial to perform rigorous toxicological assessments, in vivo studies, and long-term exposure experiments to answer safety questions. Labelling transparency and consumer awareness are also critical when selling nano-herbal products. 39
Different Nanoparticles Used for Loading Drugs as Cosmetics.
Herbal Extracts Used as Natural Skin Cleanser
Amla (Embolica Officinallis)
Many people have oily skin, particularly those who live in tropical regions. This condition causes comedowns, inflammatory acne, and other cosmetic concerns in the skin. 40 Emblica (Phyllanthus emblica L.) provides a few skin advantages. For example, some research have revealed that Emblica has complexion-whitening effects, as well as anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities; however, anti-sebum activity has not been identified. 41 Flavonoids and phenolic compounds, two types of antioxidants found in Emblica, shield the skin from oxidative damage induced by free radicals, which can result in overproduction of sebum. 42 Antioxidants like these contain anti-inflammatory qualities, which assist to reduce the inflammation and redness associated with oily and acne prone skin. 43
Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
Witch hazel extracts applied topically to dermatological areas have a calming effect due to tannin extraction. They are also used in cosmetics and therapy. 44 Flavonoids, leucoanthocyanidins, tannins, and essential oils are among the active components of hamamelis extractions, which improve blood circulation, have antimicrobial properties, and are antioxidants. It tightens pores and firms’ skin, giving it a smoother appearance. It controls excessive oil production, making it perfect for oily and acne-prone skin. It soothes sensitive skin and reduces redness. This therapy can improve a range of ailments, including psoriasis, eczema, and acne. 45 It neutralizes free radicals, which prevents premature aging. Protects skin cells from environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays. Removes all remaining impurities and makeup. It refreshes the skin and prepares it for the next step in the skincare routine. 46
Green Tea (Camellia sinensis)
Kombucha is a sweetened fermented beverage that contains a symbiotic bacterium and yeast culture (scoby). Kombucha broth contains antibacterial and antifungal effects. 47 According to research, black tea kombucha has less antibacterial activity than green tea kombucha. In addition to lactic acid, acetic acid, other organic acids, and catechins, it was found to contain a considerable quantity of protein during fermentation, which is known to particularly inhibit certain Gram-positive and Gram-negative microbes. 48 Fermented tea (kombucha) has more phenolic chemicals, since the acidic environment and enzyme stimulation by bacteria and yeast increase. Fermented goods include lactic acid, which is highly helpful to the body and skin. One of which functions as an antibacterial agent on the skin, limiting the growth of acne-causing bacteria, Propionibacterium acnes, and plays a role in exfoliating dead skin. 49
Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis Miller)
Moisturization is crucial for keeping the skin supple, flexible, smooth, and wrinkle-free, hence retaining a youthful and beautiful appearance. 50 Aloe barbadensis is rich in carbohydrate polymers (glucomannans), mucilage, fructose, acids (uronic acid, tannic acid), vitamins (A, C, E, D, B1, B2, B3), amino acids, and triterpenoids (lupeol, campesterol, cholesterol, β-sitosterol) with disease-preventing qualities. 51 Aloe has traditionally been used to cure burnt and swollen skin. The skin and its cells require hydration to operate properly. 52 Water levels are mostly determined by the composition of the stratum corneum (SC), the skin's outermost epidermal layer, as well as aging and harmful elements such as heat and wind. 53
Ginseng (Panax ginseng)
Panax ginseng C.A Meyer (Asian ginseng) has been utilized for millennia by many Asian countries as a medicinal plant and functional food to boost health. 54 Panax ginseng leaf purified extracts (PGLE) were discovered to have significant levels of Rb3 and Rb2. Rb3, a major component of PGLE, activated TGF-β to increase collagen production in human skin fibroblast cells. Furthermore, clinical investigations proved PGLE's promise as an anti-aging drug. 55 Ginseng saponins help to tone and elasticize the skin. Its antioxidant capabilities protect the skin from free radicals and environmental stresses, encouraging skin healing and avoiding premature aging. 56 Ginseng has anti-inflammatory effects that decrease redness, swelling, and irritation, making it great for treating sensitive or acne-prone skin. Ginseng toners can also help detoxify the skin by removing toxins and impurities, leaving it feeling clean and refreshed. 57
Rose Water (Rosa damascena)
Rose water is a popular ingredient in skin toners because of its numerous skin-benefiting properties. It works as a natural humectant, retaining moisture and keeping the skin hydrated, soft, and smooth. Its anti-inflammatory effects reduce redness, inflammation, and swelling, making it great for calming sensitive or acne-prone skin. 58 Rose water also includes antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental stresses, so preventing premature aging and boosting skin restoration. 59 It regulates the skin's pH, controls excess oil, and prevents breakouts, while its mild astringent properties tighten pores and tone the skin, leaving it feeling refreshed and firm. 60 According to research, rose water contains compounds with anti-inflammatory properties, such as phenolic acids and flavonoids. These compounds reduce skin redness, irritation, and swelling, providing relief for sensitive or acne-prone skin. 58 Rose water's antioxidant benefits are due to its high antioxidant content, which includes vitamin C and flavonoids. Antioxidants protect the skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage, which are connected to premature aging. 59 Rose water's antibacterial properties make it effective for treating acne-prone skin. 61
Cucumber Extract (Cucumis sativus)
Cucumber has a variety of skin-care and natural beauty benefits. 62 Cucumber slices provide several topical advantages for the eyes and surrounding tissues because of their moisturizing characteristics, which serve to reduce dryness, and their high vitamin K content, which helps to minimize cutaneous eruptions such as puffiness (eye bags) and dark shadows. 63 Cucumbers contain lignans, which assist to relieve the itching and inflammation caused by sunburn and bug bites. 64 Cucumber fruit extracts are commonly utilized as the major component in many topical skin care products. Furthermore, such formulations have been utilized to decrease wrinkles and cleanse the skin. 65 Cucumbers have a thorough cleaning function because to their naturally occurring organic acids, which include glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid. 66
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a popular skincare ingredient, particularly in facial toners, due to its numerous benefits. 67 Scientific research supports lavender's anti-inflammatory properties, demonstrating that it can significantly reduce inflammation and redness by inhibiting the production of inflammatory cytokines. This makes it ideal for sensitive or irritated skin. 68 Lavender is also known for its antibacterial and antimicrobial properties, which help to prevent and treat acne by reducing the presence of acne-causing bacteria on the skin. According to research, lavender oil can effectively combat a variety of bacteria strains, resulting in clearer skin. 69 Furthermore, lavender has antioxidant properties, which protect the skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage, preventing premature aging and promoting skin repair. 70 Its soothing aroma has a calming effect on the mind, which can help alleviate stress-related skin problems. 71 Incorporating lavender into a face toner provides a well-rounded skincare solution by providing anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant benefits while also providing a soothing and calming experience. 72
Saffron (Crocus sativus)
Saffron has pharmacological benefits for human skin. Herbal cosmetics are considered safe for long-term use. 73 Cosmetic compounds found in saffron (Crocus sativus) include safranal, which is used as a perfume; crocin, safranal, and crocetin as antioxidants and anti-dark spot; crocin, safranal, and crocetin as anti-UV. crocin, and crocetin as an anti-inflammatory and as a colouring pigment in cosmetics. vitamin C, flavonoids, and zinc as a face toner. kaempferol, crocin, and crocetin as anti-wrinkle. 74 Saffron (Crocus sativus) has a variety of skin-beneficial properties, making it suitable for use in cosmetics. Saffron is widely recognized for its ability to lighten skin tone, lessen hyperpigmentation, and provide the illusion of radiant, luminous skin by blocking the synthesis of melanin. 75 Saffron also possesses antibacterial qualities that help lessen the number of germs that cause acne on the skin, which can help prevent and cure acne. Additionally, its healing qualities hasten the skin's recovery from small wounds and blemishes. 76
Neem (Azadirachta indica)
Neem contains several active compounds that make it effective as a skin toner. 77 Azadirachtin, a primary active ingredient in neem, is known for its potent antimicrobial properties, which help to reduce bacterial growth on the skin and are especially beneficial for acne-prone skin. 78 Additionally, nimbidin and nimbin have anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness and swelling. The presence of nimbidol strengthens neem's antifungal properties, making it useful for keeping a clear and healthy complexion. 79 Neem's mechanism of action on the skin is multifaceted. Its antimicrobial properties aid in cleansing the skin and preventing acne breakouts, while its anti-inflammatory compounds soothe and calm the skin, reducing irritation and redness. Inhibition of pro-inflammatory cytokines and reactive oxygen species production by the Propionibacterium acnes pathogen.80,81 Bacterial cell membrane production was inhibited in vitro, demonstrating the antibacterial action of A. indica oil against harmful bacteria. 80 Nimbolid, gedunin, mahmoodin, and margolone, which are antibacterial, fungal, and bacterial compounds found in A. indica, increased the synthesis of collagen, softened and supple skin, lessened the appearance of existing scars, and aided in the healing process. 82
Animal Based Extract Used as Face Toner
Snail Mucin
The composition of snail mucin, which contains multiple trusted skincare ingredients such as growth factors, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid, allowed for an easy transition of snail mucin into skincare. 83 Other components of snail mucin include glycosaminoglycans, glycoproteins, allantoin, glycolic acid, lactic acid, collagen, and elastin. This makes snail mucin an incredibly unique natural product, as it contains a rare combination of ingredients that are not commonly found in nature. One of the primary advantages of snail mucin is its superior hydrating properties. Hyaluronic acid, a crucial component of snail mucin, is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds moisture, keeping the skin moisturized and plump. This hydration helps to smooth out the skin's texture and make it more supple. 84 Furthermore, snail mucin is known for its regenerative properties. Glycoproteins and glycolic acid promote collagen production and cell turnover, which aids in skin repair and renewal. This regenerative effect is especially useful for healing acne scars, reducing hyperpigmentation, and minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 85
Royal Jelly
A product of the honeybee, royal jelly (RJ) is made up of protein, lipids, carbs, free amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. 86 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid (10-HDA), which possesses anticancer and antimicrobial qualities as well as the capacity to increase collagen synthesis, is the main unsaturated fatty acid in RJ.87,88 RJ's impact on UV-induced skin photoaging has not been investigated. The vitamins and amino acids in royal jelly keep the skin's moisture balance stable, keeping it smooth and silky. In order to avoid dryness and improve the texture of the skin, which can hasten the aging process, this hydration is crucial. 89 Because of its calming and anti-inflammatory qualities, royal jelly can help soothe sensitive skin. This means that because it helps lessen redness and inflammation, it's a great option for those with sensitive or reactive skin. 90
Pearl Extract
Since ancient times, pearl extract—which is made from finely ground pearls—has been utilized in skincare, particularly in traditional Chinese medicine. 91 It is a common component in contemporary skincare products due to its well-known capacity to brighten skin and enhance texture. The brightening effect of pearl extract is one of its primary advantages. It makes uneven skin tone and black spots less noticeable, giving the complexion a more radiant appearance. 92 Conchiolin protein, which is found in pearl extract, increases the creation of collagen and skin regeneration, increasing skin suppleness and decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 93
Lanolin
Lanolin, a waxy substance derived from the wool of sheep, has long been prized for its exceptional moisturizing and protective properties. Lanolin, a skincare component, is well-known for its ability to trap in moisture, making it an ideal choice for toners that provide deep hydration and protection. Lanolin's primary benefit is its capacity to act as an effective emollient. It forms a barrier on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss, making it very useful for dry and dehydrated skin. This moisture-retaining capacity keeps the skin supple, smooth, and moisturized throughout the day. 94 By incorporating lanolin into a toner, skincare products can deliver these hydrating benefits right from the initial steps of a skincare routine. 95 Lanolin contains natural lipids comparable to those present in human skin, allowing it to blend easily into the skin's lipid barrier. This compatibility enhances its capacity to maintain the skin's natural protective barrier, therefore enhancing overall skin health and resilience. 96
Marine Based Extracts in Skin Toner
Seaweed Extract
Seaweed extract, obtained from several forms of marine algae, has acquired appeal in the cosmetics sector due to its high nutritional content and multiple skin advantages. 97 The usage of seaweed-derived compounds in cosmetic products has increased in recent years, owing to several scientific studies revealing the potential skincare effects of seaweed bio actives. Some physiologically active compounds that have garnered attention include carotenoids, fatty acids, polysaccharides, phlorotannins, vitamins, sterols, tocopherol, phycobilins, and phycocyanins. 98 Such rich compositions have transformed seaweed into possible constituents in traditional cosmetics, such as solid soaps, to replace sodium lauryl sulfate/sodium laureth sulfate. 99 Seaweed extract contains anti-inflammatory characteristics that soothe irritated skin and decrease redness, making it perfect for sensitive and acne-prone skin. 100 Its strong antioxidant concentration protects the skin from free radical damage and oxidative stress, two key causes of premature aging. Seaweed includes vitamins and minerals that boost collagen formation, increase skin suppleness, and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Adding seaweed extract to a toner helps moisturize, balance, and refresh the skin. 101
Marine Plankton Extract
Marine phytoplankton, microscopic organisms found in oceans and freshwater bodies, have emerged as a powerful skincare ingredient due to their high nutrient content. These tiny marine plants contain essential fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants, making them an excellent addition to cosmetic formulations. 102 The use of marine phytoplankton in skin cosmetics provides numerous benefits, including improved skin health and vitality. 103 Cosmetic and cosmeceutical products now contain active compounds isolated from certain microalgae; nevertheless, additional study into their action mechanisms is necessary. 104 Active compounds produced from microalgae are important because they help prevent blemishes, restore damaged skin, cure seborrhea, and reduce inflammation. 105 Furthermore, microalgae extracts include a number of bioactive compounds that accelerate the healing process and keep the skin moist. 106
Sea Cucumber Extract
Sea cucumbers are marine organisms in the Holothuroidea family that have long been used as medicines due to their medicinal efficiency in a range of ailments. Cucumber extract is widely used to treat skin diseases, wrinkles, sunburn, and as an antioxidant. 107 Oxidative stress has a key role in skin aging. Antioxidants reduce the aging process by preventing free radicals from damaging sensitive biological molecules, limiting their synthesis, and quenching reactive oxygen species (ROS). 108 Cucumber extract is recognized for its moisturizing qualities. It includes polysaccharides, which assist to retain moisture in the skin, so boosting hydration and reducing dryness. This makes it a perfect component for moisturizers, serums, and toners aimed at keeping the skin plump and moisturized. 109 Sea cucumber extract promotes skin elasticity and firmness by keeping moisture levels balanced, resulting in a smoother, more supple complexion 110 (Table 1).
Natural Product, Active Compound and their Cosmetic Brands.
Mineral Extracts as Skin Toners
Mineral extracts provide numerous benefits to the skin, including hydration, barrier strengthening, anti-inflammatory effects, detoxification, and antioxidant protection. 125 Minerals like magnesium and potassium work as humectants, pulling moisture from the environment into the skin. This decreases dryness while keeping the skin smooth and supple. Calcium and magnesium are essential for maintaining and strengthening the skin's protective layer, reducing moisture loss, and protecting against environmental aggressors. 126 A robust skin barrier is vital for reducing irritation and sensitivity, hence improving skin health. Zinc and selenium have potent anti-inflammatory qualities that relieve irritated skin while lowering redness and inflammation, making them particularly effective for sensitive and acne-prone skin. These minerals soothe and repair the skin, enhancing its look and feel. 127 Mineral extracts made from clay and mud have purifying characteristics that remove pollutants, excess oil, and toxins from the skin, leaving it clean and rejuvenated. This detoxifying impact prevents blocked pores and breakouts, resulting in cleaner skin. 128 Minerals like selenium and zinc work as antioxidants, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage. Antioxidant protection is vital for avoiding premature aging and reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. 129
Thermal Water Toner
Thermal water toners have become popular in many skincare routines, thanks to their soothing, hydrating, and healing properties. 130 Thermal water, derived from natural hot springs, is high in minerals and trace elements, which provide numerous skin benefits. These minerals, which include magnesium, calcium, and potassium, function as humectants, drawing moisture from the environment and locking it in. 123 Thermal water toners are ideal for persons with dry or dehydrated skin due to their moisturizing properties, which maintain the skin smooth, supple, and radiant. Furthermore, thermal water is recognized for its relaxing qualities. 131 Thermal water with minerals like selenium, which has natural anti-inflammatory qualities, can aid to calm inflamed skin, decrease redness, and relieve discomfort. 132
Clay Based Toner
Clay-based toners are gaining popularity in skincare due to their ability to cleanse, detoxify, and balance the skin. These toners, manufactured from natural clays including kaolin, bentonite, and French green clay, harness the power of clay to give a multitude of advantages, especially for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. 133 One of the defining features of clay-based toners is their detoxification ability. Clay has a natural capacity to remove impurities, excess oil, and toxins from the skin, making it an excellent choice for thorough cleansing. This detoxifying action removes blocked pores, prevents breakouts, and leaves the skin feeling clean and revitalized. Regular use of clay-based toners can result in brighter, more refined skin with fewer blemishes and blackheads. 133 Clay-based toners have excellent oil-absorbing properties. Clays such as bentonite and kaolin are particularly effective at absorbing excess sebum, thereby controlling shine and reducing the appearance of large pores. This makes clay-based toners ideal for people with oily skin because they help to balance oil production and keep the skin looking matte throughout the day134,135 (Figure 3).
Different Sources for Active Constituents 1) Lavender Flower 2) Saffron Flower 3) Rose Flower 4) Aloe vera Plant 5) Hot Springs of Verinag 6) Snail 7) Marine Algae 8) Sheep (Source of Lanolin).
Mechanism of Action
Traditional herbs are effective in cosmetics, especially as natural skin toners, due to a variety of mechanisms of action. 136 These mechanisms include astringent action, anti-inflammatory properties, hydration and moisturization, and antioxidant defence. Understanding these mechanisms reveals how these herbs promote skin health and beauty. 135
Astringent Action
Astringents are substances that cause skin cells and tissues to contract, creating a tightening effect. This action minimizes the appearance of pores, reduces oiliness, and firms the skin. 137 Neem (Azadirachta indica) contain tannins that tighten the skin and minimize pore size, making it perfect for toners targeted at oily and acne-prone skin. 138 Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), known for its high tannin content, effectively tightens skin, reduces inflammation, and cleanses pores, making it a staple in many toners 139 Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) extract, rich in tannins and catechins, helps to shrink pores, control oil production, and firm the skin, contributing to a smoother complexion. Rose water (Rosa damascena) contains natural astringents that tighten the skin and minimize redness, making it appropriate for all skin types, even sensitive skin. 140
Anti Inflammatory Action
Anti-inflammatory properties are essential for soothing irritated skin, reducing redness, and avoiding inflammatory skin conditions like acne and eczema. 141 Neem (Azadirachta indica) includes anti-inflammatory chemicals such as nimbidin and quercetin, which decrease inflammation and soothe irritated skin, making it appropriate for acne-prone and sensitive skin. 78 Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) includes flavonoids and bisabolol that soothe, decrease redness, and alleviate irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Aloe vera (Aloe barbadense) is well-known for its anti-inflammatory effects, due to components such as aloin and acemannan, making it effective for treating sunburn, acne, and other inflammatory diseases. 142 Calendula (Calendula officinalis) contains triterpenoids and flavonoids, which reduce inflammation, promote healing, and soothe irritated skin. 143
Hydration and Moisturization
Hydration and moisturization are essential for keeping your skin healthy, plump, and youthful-looking. Many traditional herbs provide natural hydration and help to retain moisture. 144 Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis) is exceptionally hydrating because to its high water content and polysaccharides, which attract moisture to the skin and form a protective barrier that locks in hydration, leaving the skin smooth and supple. 52 Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) extract, which is high in water and essential vitamins, cools, refreshes, and replenishes moisture for a healthy complexion. 63 Rose Water (Rosa damascena) is calming and nourishing, regulating the skin's pH and delivering gentle moisture suitable for all skin types, particularly oily and acne-prone skin. Hyaluronic Acid, obtained from plants, is a potent moisturizing agent that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, giving intensive hydration and plumping the skin.
Antioxidant Protection
Antioxidants defend the skin from free radical-induced oxidative stress, which can cause premature aging, fine lines, and wrinkles. 145 Many traditional plants are rich in antioxidants. Green tea (Camellia sinensis) contains polyphenols, particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), which provide strong antioxidant protection by neutralizing free radicals, lowering oxidative stress, and protecting the skin from environmental damage. 145 Turmeric (Curcuma longa) contains curcumin, a potent antioxidant that fights free radicals, lowers oxidative stress, and has anti-inflammatory and brightening properties. 146 Ginseng (Panax ginseng) contains ginsenosides, which are potent antioxidants that protect the skin from environmental stresses, increase skin suppleness, and minimize indications of aging. 147 Vitamin C, derived from a range of plants and fruits, is a well-known antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage, brightens the complexion, and stimulates collagen formation for firmer, younger-looking skin 148 (Table 2).
Face Toner and Their Mechanism of Action ad Their Cosmetic Brands.
Mechanism of Action of Mineral Extract
Osmoregulation
Minerals help to regulate skin cells’ osmotic balance, ensuring proper hydration and function. This balance is essential for having healthy, plump, and hydrated skin. 160
Enzyme Activation
Many minerals function as cofactors in enzymatic reactions in the skin. For example, zinc is required for the proper function of enzymes involved in collagen synthesis and DNA repair. These enzymatic activities contribute to skin regeneration, repair, and overall health. 161
Anti-Microbial Action
Certain minerals, such as zinc, have antimicrobial properties that help to prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin. This action can be especially useful for preventing acne and keeping a clear complexion. 160
Formulation and Manufacturing Considerations
Extraction Methods for Active Compounds
The extraction of active compounds from herbs is an important step in developing effective herbal toners. Various methods are used to ensure that the beneficial components are efficiently extracted while remaining effective and safe. 162
Solvent Extraction
This method uses solvents such as ethanol, methanol, or water to dissolve and extract active compounds from plant material. Ethanol is widely used because it is effective at extracting a variety of phytochemicals, including flavonoids, tannins and essential oils. 162
Steam Distillation
Steam distillation is a process for obtaining essential oils that includes pushing steam through plant material to evaporate volatile components before condensing them back into liquid form. This method is ideal for extracting essential oils from herbs. 163
Cold Pressing
This method is commonly used to extract oils from seeds and peels. The plant material is mechanically pressed to extract oils without using heat, preserving the active compound integrity and potency. 164
Supercritical Fluid Extraction
Using supercritical CO2 as a solvent, this method extracts active compounds at high pressure and low temperature, protecting heat-sensitive components. It is a highly effective method for producing pure extracts with minimal solvent residue. 163
Ultrasonic Extraction
This approach employs ultrasonic vibrations to generate cavitation bubbles in the solvent, assisting in the breakdown of cell walls and the release of active chemicals. It is well-known for its effectiveness and capacity to extract a broad array of phytochemicals in a short amount of time. 165
Although aqueous extracts are usually favoured because they are non-toxic and biocompatible, they have limited shelf life due to microbial susceptibility and hydrolytic instability. 166 Ethanol and methanol, however, are commonly utilized because they have better extraction efficiency of active ingredients. Nonetheless, the continuous or repeated topical application of ethanol/methanolic extracts causes dryness, irritation, or breakdown of the skin barrier in sensitive-skinned individuals. 167 Hence, formulators while selecting solvents need to balance efficacy, safety, and stability. The final formulation usually involves preservatives and pH adjusters to counteract these issues and allow the product to have a long shelf life. 168
Stability and Shelf Life of Herbal Toners
Herbal toners must be stable and have a long shelf life in order to remain effective and safe over time. Several variables can affect the stability of these products:
Antioxidants
Herbal extracts high in antioxidants, such as green tea and vitamin C, can help to stabilize the formulation by preventing oxidative degradation of active compounds. However, these antioxidants can be sensitive to light and air, necessitating proper packaging and storage. 169
Preservatives
Phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, and essential oils are natural preservatives that can suppress microbial development and improve shelf life. The choice of preservatives must strike a balance between efficacy and safety, especially for formulations aimed at sensitive skin. 170
pH Stabilizers
Herbal toners must be kept at an appropriate pH level to remain stable. Ingredients such as citric acid or sodium hydroxide can be used to adjust and stabilize the pH, ensuring that the product is safe and effective solution overtime. 171
Packaging
Airtight and light-resistant packaging, such as amber glass bottles or airless pumps, can shield herbal toners from light and air, which can degrade active compound and reduce product efficacy. 172
Temperature Control
Proper storage conditions, such as keeping the product cool and dry, can aid in the stability of herbal toners. Extreme temperatures can accelerate the breakdown of active compounds and preservatives, reducing shelf life. 173
Formulation Challenges and Solutions
Formulating herbal toners presents several challenges that necessitate novel solutions to ensure consumer safety, efficacy and consumer experience. 174
Solubility Issues
Some active compounds may have low solubility in water-based formulations. Solubilizers, such as polysorbates or lecithin, can improve the solubility and stability of these compounds in toners. 175
Ingredient Compatibility
It is critical that all of the ingredients in the formulation are compatible and do not interact negatively. Stability testing and thorough formulation trials can aid in detecting and resolving compatibility issues. 176
Maintaining Consistency
Herbal extract compositions can vary due to differences in plant cultivation, harvest time, and extraction methods. Standardizing extracts and using reputable suppliers can help to ensure product consistency and stability. 177
Sensory Properties
To ensure consumer acceptance, the toner should have an appealing texture, scent, and application feel. Formulators can improve the sensory properties of the finished product by using natural fragrances and texture enhancers. 178
Preserving Without Harsh Chemicals
Consumers are increasingly demanding products that contain natural preservatives. Combining natural preservatives and utilizing synergistic effects can improve antimicrobial efficacy without relying on harsh synthetic chemicals. 179 Formulation of cosmetics by different methods as shown in Figure 4.
Flow Chart for the Preparation of Cosmetic Formulation.
Challenges in Developing a Fully Herbal Product with Long Shelf Life
Developing an entirely herbal cosmetic product with long shelf life creates some practical problems. Herbal extracts are susceptible to oxidation, microbial spoilage, and degradation of active ingredients on aging. 180 While synthetic preservatives work effectively in small concentrations, most natural preservatives are not as effective and need higher strengths or blends for equivalent stability. In addition, batch-to-batch variation of plant materials resulting from environmental and agricultural conditions impairs consistency. 181 To surmount such challenges, the use of natural antioxidants (such as tocopherol), essential oils, or weak preservatives and the count on sophisticated packaging technology such as airless pumps or opaque packs may be tried. Yet making a totally synthetic-free but stable herbal product continues to be an uphill task subject to ongoing innovation and rigorous quality control. 182
Regulatory Considerations and Safety Assessments
Regulatory issues and safety studies are crucial in the development and marketing of herbal toners. Compliance with regulatory standards and thorough safety evaluations are required to ensure product safety and efficacy. 183
Ingredient Approval
All herbal toner components must be licensed for cosmetic use by the appropriate regulatory agencies, such as the FDA in the United States or the European Medicines Agency (EMA) in Europe. This involves assessing the safety data and allowed concentrations for each component. 184
Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)
GMP requirements guarantee that herbal toners are made consistently and to high quality standards. This involves appropriate documentation, quality control methods, and periodical audits to verify compliance. 185
Good Laboratory Practice (GLP)
Prior to the sale of a cosmetic product to consumers, it should be subjected to a comprehensive safety evaluation performed by a trained assessor. The procedure entails assessment of the toxicological profile of every ingredient, estimation of exposure levels, assessment of potential allergenicity, and calculation of the Margin of Safety (MoS). 186 Preclinical testing also includes in vitro and in silico methods for replacing or reducing animal testing, as aligned with international ethical principles. The objective of this stage is to make sure that the final formulation causes no danger under conditions of intended use and complies with all relevant safety regulations. 187
Preclinical Testing
Preclinical testing is done with accordance to the international ethical standards. The objective of this stage is to ensure that the final formulation is not a risk under conditions of intended use and complies with all relevant safety standards. 188
Safety Testing
Comprehensive safety testing, including skin irritation and sensitization tests, is required to determine the final product's safety. These tests help to identify any potential side effects and ensure that the toner is safe for consumer use. 189
Stability Testing
Stability testing is carried out under various conditions (for example, temperature, humidity, and light exposure) to establish the product's shelf life and verify that it stays safe and effective throughout the life duration. 190
Labelling Requirements
Adherence to labelling regulations is essential. This includes listing all ingredients in descending order of concentration, giving usage instructions, and including any warnings or precautionary statement. Regulatory requirements as shown in Figure 5.
Regulatory Approvals for Pharma Cosmeceuticals.
Consumer Preferences and Market Trends
Increasing Demand for Natural and Organic Skincare Products
In recent years, the skincare market has evolved significantly toward natural and organic products. Consumers are becoming more aware of the problems linked with synthetic substances, and they are seeking safer, natural alternatives. This trend originates from an increasing desire for openness and sustainability, as well as an emphasis on health and wellbeing. 191 Natural and organic skincare products are considered kinder on the skin and healthier for the environment, reflecting the beliefs of environmentally aware customers. 192 Furthermore, the growth of social media and influencer marketing has increased demand for natural products, as beauty influencers frequently promote clean beauty brands and natural skincare routines. 193
Market Analysis and Growth Projections
The global natural and organic skincare market has grown rapidly over the last decade and is expected to continue expanding. The worldwide natural skin care products market was valued at USD 6.7 billion in 2021, and it is predicted to rise at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.6% from 2022 to 2030. One of the key market drivers is a growing awareness of the harmful effects of chemicals on the skin, such as inflammation and dullness. 194 North America, Europe, and Asia-Pacific are key markets driving this growth, with the latter showing significant potential due to a rising middle class and increased beauty consciousness. 195
Consumer Preferences and Perceptions
Consumers are increasingly looking for skincare products free of harmful chemicals like parabens, sulphates, and synthetic fragrances. They prefer products with simple, natural ingredient lists that are clear and understandable. Certifications such as USDA Organic, Ecocert, and COSMOS help to build consumer trust and confidence in the authenticity of natural and organic products. 196 Furthermore, consumers are drawn to brands that promote ethical sourcing, cruelty-free practices, and eco-friendly packaging. Consumer preference is also influenced by the perception that natural products are more effective and safer for long-term use, with many believing that natural ingredients are better suited to the skin's natural processes. 197
Future Directions and Innovation
Emerging Research on Traditional Herbs
Research into traditional herbs is expanding our understanding of their potential skincare benefits, particularly in the form of natural toners. Emerging research is looking into the molecular mechanisms by which these herbs exert their effects on the skin, revealing new ways to use their properties. 198 For example, recent research has looked into the anti-aging and skin-renewing properties of lesser-known herbs such as Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica) and Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), revealing that they can stimulate collagen production and reduce skin damage. 199 Furthermore, there is growing interest in the synergistic effects of combining traditional herbs with other natural ingredients to increase efficacy. This research could lead to the creation of more effective and targeted skincare formulations. 200
Potential New Herbs for Skin Toners
The search for new herbs with beneficial properties for skin toners continues, with a focus on plants that provide distinct advantages. Herbs like Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), known for its high vitamin C content and skin-rejuvenating properties, and Marula (Sclerocarya birrea), which provides deep hydration and antioxidant protection, are gaining popularity.201,202 Furthermore, Kakadu Plum (Terminalia ferdinandiana), which has the highest vitamin C content of any fruit, and Moringa (Moringa oleifera), which contains a wide range of vitamins and minerals, show promise for inclusion in future skincare products. These new herbal ingredients have the potential to offer novel benefits and address specific skin issues. 203
Innovation in Formulation and Delivery Systems
Natural skin toners’ effectiveness and user experience are being improved thanks to advances in formulation and delivery methods. Innovative techniques are being developed to increase the stability, penetration, and release of active ingredients. 204 Microencapsulation, for example, enables the controlled release of ingredients, ensuring their effectiveness over time and improving their stability in formulations. 205 Nanotechnology is also making advances in skincare by allowing active compounds to be delivered at the cellular level, resulting in more targeted and efficient results. 206 Furthermore, liposome technology is being used to create vesicles that encapsulate and protect active ingredients, thereby improving their absorption and efficacy. These advancements not only enhance the performance of natural toners, but also contribute to a more luxurious and efficient skincare experience. 207
Effects of Biotechnology on Natural Cosmetics
Biotechnology is transforming the natural cosmetics industry by allowing for the development of more sophisticated and effective products. 208 Biotransformation processes are being used to develop new ingredients by modifying traditional herbal compounds to increase bioavailability and potency. Plant cell cultures and fermentation techniques, for example, are used to create high-purity, long-lasting extracts that are more effective. 209 Furthermore, genetic engineering enables the creation of customized plant strains that produce specific beneficial compounds in greater concentrations. 210 Biotechnology also contributes to the sustainability of natural cosmetics by reducing the need for extensive cultivation while minimizing environmental impact. As these technologies advance, they will provide exciting opportunities for developing innovative, effective, and environmentally friendly skincare solutions. 211
Conclusion
The paper delves into the history and benefits of natural skin toners, from ancient cosmetic practices to modern ‘cosmeceuticals’ that use plant-based ingredients for therapeutic purposes. It discusses the historical misuse of herbal cosmetics in Europe and emphasizes the long-standing use of herbal extracts to treat skin and health problems Plant-based toners are known for their antioxidant-rich components, such as flavonoids, carotenoids, and polyphenols, which help to cleanse and balance the skin. It also compares synthetic toners, which can cause irritation and long-term damage due to artificial chemicals, to herbal toners, which are known for their gentle and nourishing qualities. Rose water, aloe vera, and green tea are known for their antioxidant, hydrating, and soothing properties The discussion includes the use of nanomaterials in face toners, which improve ingredient delivery while raising safety and regulatory concerns. It examines a variety of herbal extracts, including amla, witch hazel, green tea, and aloe vera, highlighting their benefits such as oil control, anti-inflammatory properties, and hydration. Lesser-known ingredients such as saffron and neem are also tested for skin- whitening, antimicrobial, and anti-aging benefits
Furthermore, the paper discusses the advantages of animal-based, marine-based, and mineral-based extracts in skincare. Animal-based extracts such as snail mucin, royal jelly, pearl extract, and lanolin provide benefits such as hydration, skin regeneration, soothing effects, and long-lasting moisture retention. Marine extracts, such as seaweed, marine plankton, and sea cucumber, are valued for their calming, antioxidant, and elasticity-promoting properties. Mineral-based extracts, such as thermal water and clay-based toners, offer specific benefits to oily or acne-prone skin, including hydration, detoxification, and balance.
The mechanisms of action for these extracts include astringent effects that tighten skin and minimize pores, anti-inflammatory characteristics that soothe and reduce redness, hydration from aloe vera and hyaluronic acid, and antioxidant protection from green tea and vitamin C. These beneficial components are produced utilizing a range of extraction processes, including solvent extraction, steam distillation, and cold pressing. Careful attention is made to formulation and production to assure product stability and efficacy.
List of Abbreviations
PGLE: Panax ginseng leaf purified extracts, 10-HAD: 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid, ROS: reactive oxygen species, EMA: European Medicines Agency, GMP: Good Manufacturing Practices, CAGR: compound annual growth rate.
Footnotes
List of Abbreviations
Acknowledgements
The authors are thankful to Kampala International University and Galgotias University for providing the necessary facilities to conduct this research work.
Ethical Approval
Ethical Approval is not applicable for this article.
Consent to Publication
All authors read and agreed to the final copy of the findings as contained in the manuscript.
Author Contribution Statement
Aman Sisodia and Ananda Kumar Chettupalli contributed to the study conception and de-sign. Material preparation, data collection, and analysis were performed by Shaik Abdul Rahaman, Shikha Chaudhary, Aman Sisodia and Ananda Kumar Chettupalli. The first draft of the manuscript was written by Sarad Pawar Naik Bukke and Buyinza Nicholas, and all authors commented on previous versions of the manuscript. All authors read and approved the final manuscript.
Funding
The authors received no financial support for the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
Declarations
I hereby declare that this submission is entirely my own work, in my own words, and that all sources used in researching it are fully acknowledged and all quotations properly identified.
Declaration of Conflicting Interests
The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.
Availability of Data and Materials
Data sharing is not applicable to this article as no new data were created or analyzed in this study.
Statement of Human and Animal Rights
This article does not contain any studies with human or animal subjects.
Statement of Informed Consent
There are no human subjects in this article and informed consent is not applicable.