Female Representation in Rock Climbing Research

Abstract

Introduction

Although rock climbing is approaching gender parity in participation, female representation in rock climbing research remains to be investigated. We evaluated the gender distribution of study participants and authorship in the rock climbing literature.

Methods

We conducted a systematic review with PubMed and Embase to identify original research articles involving rock climbers. We categorized articles by and extracted data on the sex (female and male) of study participants and authors. Author gender was classified with Genderize.io, an automated probability-based assessment software.

Results

We identified 298 original research articles from 1973 to 2023. Among the 266 articles that reported study participant gender, females comprised 36% of climber participants. Eighty-two articles (31%) had all-male climber participants, whereas 7 articles (3%) had an all-female cohort. Female climbers were the most underrepresented in articles investigating chronic climbing injuries (13% female), imaging studies (15%), and injury rehabilitation (20%). Female representation was highest in studies about youth climbing (43%) and epidemiology (36%). Of 1360 total authorships, 290 (21%) were female. Females were first authors for 54 articles (18%) and last authors for 53 articles (18%). Articles with female first authors had a higher proportion of female study participants than those with male first authors (39 vs 36%; P<0.001), whereas the proportion was similar between female and male last authors (36 vs 36%; P=0.592).

Conclusions

Female representation in climbing research and authorship is limited. Most research has studied male climbers, limiting the ability to apply these results to female climbers.