In this paper, I use a social view of disability developed by disability activist-scholars to encourage research in the textiles and clothing field. Early research on "clothing for people with special needs" occurred within a socio-political context dominated by a medicalized view of disability. A social view of disability is compatible with textiles and clothing scholarship on appearance and social realities. The paper includes suggestions for research directions that would benefit the disciplines of textiles and clothing and disability studies.
Albrecht, G.L. (1992). The disability business: Rehabilitation in America . Newbury Park, CA: Sage Publications .
2.
Barnes, C. (1991). Disabled people in Britain and discrimination: A case for anti-discrimination legislation. London: Hurst.
3.
Barnes, C. (1992). Disabling imagery and the media: An exploration of the principles for media representations of disabled people. Halifax, England: British Council of Organisations of Disabled People and Ryburn Publishing Limited.
4.
Barnes, C. (1999). Disability studies: New or not so new directions ? Disability and Society, 14, 577-580.
5.
Barnes, C., Mercer, G., & Shakespeare, T. (1999). Exploring disability: A sociological introduction. Cambridge, England: Polity Press.
6.
Barnes, R., & Eicher, J. B. (Eds.). (1993). Dress and gender: Making and meaning. Oxford, England: Berg.
7.
Begum, N. (1992). Disabled women and the feminist agenda. Feminist Review, 40, 70-84.
Charlton, J.I. (1998). Nothing about us without us: Disability oppression and empowerment. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
10.
Chowdhary, U. (1999). Clothing for special needs: An annotated bibliography . Columbia, MO: University of Missouri-Columbia .
11.
Chowdhary, U. (2000). Clothing for special needs: An annotated bibliography . 2nd ed. Columbia, MO: University of Missouri-Columbia.
12.
Clothing for the handicapped makes fashion news in London. ( 1970). Modern Hospital, 114(6), 154-156.
13.
Crow, L. (1996). Including all of our lives: Renewing the social model of disability. In J. Morris (Ed.), Encounters with strangers: Feminism and disability (pp. 206-226). London: Women's Press.
14.
Darke, P. (1998). Understanding cinematic representations of disability . In T. Shakespeare (Ed.), The disability reader: Social science perspectives (pp. 181-197). London: Cassell.
15.
Davis, L. J. (Ed.). (1997). The disability studies reader. New York: Routledge.
16.
DeLong, M. R., & Fiore, A. M. (Eds.). (1994). Aesthetics of textiles and clothing: Advancing multidisciplinary perspectives. Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association .
17.
Eicher, J. B. (Ed.). (1995). Dress and ethnicity: Change across space and time. Oxford, England: Berg.
18.
Feather, B.L. (1991). Clothing for people with special needs: A proposed model to examine personal dimensions, clothing selection processes, and personal self-acceptance. In S. B. Kaiser & M. L. Damhorst (Eds.), Critical linkages in textiles and clothing subject matter: Theory, method, and practice (pp. 116-124). Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association .
19.
Feather, B.L., Vann, J.W., & O'Bannon, P.B. (1989). Clothing-related risk perceptions of disabled men and women at point of purchase. Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics, 13, 313-326.
20.
Finkelstein, V. (1994). Workbook 1, Being DisabledMilton Keynes, England: Open University. (K665 The disabling society)
21.
Francis, L. P., & Silvers, A. (Eds.). (2000). Americans with disabilities: Exploring implications of the law for individuals and institutions. New York: Routledge.
22.
Freeman, C.M., Kaiser, S.B., & Wingate, S.B. (1985-1986). Perceptions of functional clothing by persons with physical disabilities: A social-cognitive framework. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal4(1), 46-52.
23.
Gamwell, A.M., & Joyce, F. (1966). Problems of clothing for the sick and disabled . London: Disabled Living Activities Group.
24.
Gartner, A., & Joe, T. (Eds.). (1987). Images of the disabled, disabling images. New York: Praeger.
25.
Gleeson, B. (1999). Geographies of disability. London: Routledge.
26.
Hahn, H. (1997). Advertising the acceptably employable image: Disability and capitalism. In L. J. Davis (Ed.), The disability studies reader (pp. 172-186). New York: Routledge.
27.
Hale, G. (Ed.). (1996). Beyond disability: Towards an enabling society. London: Sage.
28.
Hall, P., & Imrie, R. (1999). Architectural practices and disabling design in the built environment. Environment and Planning B-Planning and Design, 26, 409-425.
29.
Hall, D., & Vignos, P.J. (1964). Clothing adaptations for the child with progressive muscular dystrophy. American Journal of Occupational Therapy , 18, 108-112.
30.
Hershey, L. (1995, March/April). False advertising: Let's stop pity campaigns for people with disabilities. Ms., 96.
31.
Hethom, J. (Producer). (1997). Style and meaning: A youth perspective [Video] . Davis, CA: University of California Extension Communication Services.
32.
Hevey, D. (1992). The creatures time forgot: Photography and disability imageryLondon: Routledge.
33.
Hevey, D. (1997). The enfreakment of photography. In L. J. Davis (Ed.), The disability studies reader (pp. 332-347). New York: Routledge .
34.
Hillyer, B. (1993). Feminism and disability. Norman, OK: University of Oklahoma Press.
35.
Hipple, P.C. (2000). Clothing their resistance in hegemonic dress: The Clothesline Project's response to violence against women. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 18, 163-177.
36.
Humphries, S., & Gordon, P. (1992). Out of sight: The experience of disability 1900-1950 . Plymouth, England: Northcote House .
37.
Kaiser, S.B. (1996). The social psychology of clothing: Symbolic appearances in context. 2nd ed. rev. New York: Fairchild.
38.
Kaiser, S. B., & Damhorst, M. L. (Eds.). (1991). Critical linkages in textiles and clothing subject matter: Theory, method, and practice. Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association.
39.
Kaiser, S.B., Freeman, C.B., & Wingate, S.B. (1985). Stigmata and negotiated outcomes: Management of appearance by persons with physical disabilities. Deviant Behavior, 6, 205-224.
40.
Kaufman, C.F. (1995). Shop 'til you drop: Tales from a physically challenged shopper. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 12(3), 39-55.
41.
Kernaleguen, A.P. (1978). Clothing designs for the handicapped. Edmonton, Canada: University of Alberta.
42.
Kimpton-Nye, A. (1997). Gump and Co. In A. Pointon, & C. Davies (Eds.), Framed: Interrogating disability in the media (pp. 31-35). London : British Film Institute.
43.
Lamb, J.M. (1991). Clothing for people with special needs: Some conceptual issues. In S. B. Kaiser, & M. L. Damhorst (Eds.), Critical linkages in textiles and clothing subject matter: Theory, method, and practice (pp. 109-115). Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association .
44.
Lennon, S. B., & Bums, L. D. (Eds.). (1993). Social science aspects of dress: New directions. Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association.
45.
Linton, S. (1998). Claiming disability: Knowledge and identity. New York: New York University Press.
46.
Lisi, D. (1993). Found voices: Women, disability, and cultural transformation. In M. Willmuth & L. Holcomb (Eds.), Women with disabilities: Found voices, (pp. 195-209). Binghamton, NY: Harrington Park Press.
47.
Lodato, V. (2000). Third Street Kids take their place in art history [Online]. HalfthePlanet.com—The Disability Source . <http://www.halftheplanet.com/departments/arts/article10.html> [2000, July 13].
48.
Longmore, P.K. (1985). Screening stereotypes: Images of disabled people . Social Policy, 16(1), 31-37.
49.
Longmore, P.K. (1987). Screening stereotypes: Images of disabled people in television and motion pictures. In A. Gartner & T. Joe (Eds.), Images of the disabled, disabling images (pp. 65-78). New York: Praeger.
50.
MacDonald, N.M., Bua-Iam, P., & Majumder, R.K. (1994). Clothing purchase decisions and social participation: An empirical investigation of U.S. and U.K. rehabilitation clients. Journal of Rehabilitation, 60(3), 44-50.
51.
MacDonald N. M., Majumder, R.K., & Bua-Iam, P. (1994). Apparel acquisition for consumers with disabilities: Purchasing practices and barriers to shopping. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 12(2), 38-45.
52.
Mairs, N. (1996). Waist-high in the world: A life among the nondisabled . Boston: Beacon Press.
53.
Michelman, S.O., & Kaiser, S.B. (2000). Feminist issues in textiles and clothing research: Working through/with the contradictions. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 18, 121-127.
54.
Miller, F.G. (1982). Clothing and physical impairment: Joint effects on person perception. Home Economics Research Journal, 10, 265-270.
55.
Morgado, M.A. (1998, May). Media review [Review of online site, A street guide to gang identity]. ITAANewsletter, 20(5), 5.
56.
Morris, J. (Ed.). (1989). Able lives: Women's experience of paralysis. London: Women's Press.
57.
Morris, J. (1992). Creating a space for absent voices: Disabled women's experience of receiving assistance with daily living activities. Feminist Review, 50, 68-93.
58.
Newton, A. (1976). Clothing: A positive part of the rehabilitation process. Journal of Rehabilitation, 42(5), 18-22.
59.
Nisbett, D.J., & Johnson, K.K.P. (1992). Clothing fashionability and students with a disability: Impressions of social and mental competencies . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 11, 39-44.
60.
Norden, M.F. (1994). Cinema of isolation: A history of physical disability in the movies. New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press.
61.
O'Bannon, P.B.Feather, B.L., Vann, J.W., & Dillard, B.G. (1988). Perceived risk and information sources used by wheelchair bound consumers in clothing purchase decisions. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 7, 15-22.
62.
Oliver, M. (1983). Social work with disabled people. Basingstoke, England: Macmillan.
63.
Oliver, M. (1990). The politics of disablement. Basingstoke, England: Macmillan.
64.
Oliver, M. (1992). Changing the social relations of research production . Disability, Handicap and Society, 7,101-114.
65.
Oliver, M. (1996). Understanding disability: From theory to practice . Basingstoke, England: Macmillan .
66.
O'Neal, G. (1998, July). Results of the ITAA visioning session. ITAA Newsletter, 20(6), 1.
67.
Peters, S. (1996). The politics of disability identity. In L. Barton (Ed.), Disability and society: Emerging issues and insights (pp. 215-234). London: Addison Wesley Longman.
68.
Pointon, A., & Davies, C. (Eds.). (1997). Framed: Interrogating disability in the media. London: British Film Institute.
69.
Quinn, M.D., & Chase, R.W. (1990). Simplicity's design without limits: Designing and sewing for special needs. Philadelphia: Drexel University.
70.
Ray, G.H. (1986). Perceptions of physically impaired job applicants: Effect of dress, credentials, and rater's sex. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 4(2), 16-19.
71.
Reich, N., & Shannon, E. (1980). Handicap: Common physical limitations and clothing related needs. Home Economics Research Journal, 8, 437-444.
72.
Roach-Higgins, M. E., Eicher, J. B., & Johnson, K. K. P. (Eds.). (1995). Dress and identity. New York: Fairchild.
73.
Rusk H.A., & Taylor, E.J. (1959). Functional fashions for the physically handicapped. Journal of theAmerican Medical Association, 169, 1598-1600.
74.
Shakespeare, T. (Ed.). (1998). The disability reader: Social science perspectives. London : Cassell.
75.
Shapiro, J. (1993). No pity: People with disabilities forging a new civil rights movement. New York: Times Books.
76.
Swain, J., Finkelstein, V. , French, S., & Oliver, M. (Eds). Disabling barriers-Enabling environments. London: Sage.
77.
Thom, M. (Ed.). (1987). Letters to Ms. New York: Henry Holt.
78.
Thomas, C. (1999). Narrative identity and the disabled self. In M. Corker & S. French (Eds.), Disability discourse (pp. 47-55). Buckingham , England: Open University Press.
79.
Thomson, R.G. (1994). Feminism and disability. Feminist Studies, 20, 583-597.
80.
Thomson, R.G. (1997). Feminist theory, the body, and the disabled figure . In L. J. Davis (Ed.), The disability studies reader (pp. 279-292). New York: Routledge.
81.
Thoren, M. (1996). Systems approach to clothing for disabled users; Why is it difficulty for disabled users to find suitable clothing. Applied Ergonomics, 27, 389-396.
82.
Vocational Guidance Rehabilitation Services. ( 1966). Functionally designed clothing and aids for chronically ill and disabled. Chicago: VGRS .
83.
Wagner, E.M., Kunstader, R.H., & Shover, J. (1963). Self-help clothing for handicapped children. Clinical Pediatrics, 2, 122-126.
84.
Ward, M.M. (1958). Self-help fashions for the physically disabled child. American Journal of Nursing, 58, 526-527.
85.
Watkins, S.M. (1984). Clothing: The portable environment. Ames, IA: Iowa State University Press.
86.
Wendell, S. (1997). Toward a feminist theory of disability. In L. J. Davis (Ed.), The disability studies reader (pp. 260-278). New York: Routledge .
87.
Wingate, S.B., Kaiser, S.B., & Freeman, C.M. (1985-1986). Salience of disability cues in functional clothing: A multidimensional approach. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal4(2), 37-47.
88.
Yep, J.O. (1977). Tools for aiding physically disabled individuals increase independence in dressing. Journal of Rehabilitation43(6), 39-41.
