This introduction to the focused issue explores confusions and contradictions related to feminist perspectives in textiles and clothing research. Contributions to this issue represent various perspectives on and approaches to feminism, delving in diverse ways into the ambivalent nature of textiles, clothing, style, and fashion in women's everyday lives. The introduction also examines how we define such issues as feminine and feminist and how problematic binary oppositions such as politics versus aesthetics, masculinity versus femininity, femininity versus feminism, etc., have the effect of fostering either/or thinking at the expense of more complex, bothland, ambivalent, embodied, and other ways of knowing. The authors hope this issue will help to move ITAA toward an increasingly critical and inclusive dialogue with feminist scholars.
Allen, B. (1994). The novel, the body, and Giorgio Armani: Rethinking national "identity" in a postnational world. In G. M. Jeffries (Ed.), Feminine feminists: Cultural practices in Italy (pp. 153-170). Minneapolis, MN: University of Minnesota Press.
2.
Anzaldua, G. (1981). Borderlands/la frontera. San Francisco: Spinsters/Aunt Lute.
3.
Anzaldua, G. (Ed.). (1990). Making face/making soul. San Francisco: Aunt Lute Foundation Press.
4.
Barnard, M. (1996). Fashion as communication. London: Routledge.
5.
Belkin, L. (1999, July 25). Getting the girl. The New York Times Magazine, 26-31, 38, 54-55.
6.
Bem, S. ( 1993). The lenses of gender: Transforming the debate on gender inequality. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
7.
Benstock, S. & Ferris, S. (1994). On fashion. New Brunswick, N.J.: Rutgers University Press.
8.
Bordo, S. (1999). The male body. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux.
9.
Chandler, J., Kaiser, S.B., & Hammidi, T. (1996). Feminism and fashion: Academic women speak out . In C. M. Ladisch (Ed.), International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings (p. 114). Monument, CO: ITAA.
10.
Clark, D. (1993). Commodity lesbianism. In H. Abelove, M. A. Barale, & D. M. Halperin (Eds.), The lesbian and gay studies reader. London: Routledge .
11.
Collins, P.H. ( 1991 ). Black feminist thought: Knowledge, consciousness, and the politics of empowennent. New York/ London: Routledge.
12.
Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
13.
Digby, T. (Ed.).(1998). Men doing feminism. New York: Routledge.
14.
DiStefano, C. (1990). Dilemmas of difference: Feminism, modernity, and postmodernism In L. J. Nicholson (Ed.), Feminism/postmodernism (pp. 63-82). New York: Routledge.
15.
Emberley, J.V. (1997). The cultural politics offur. Ithaca/ London: Cornell University Press.
16.
Evans C. & Thornton M. (1989). Women and fashion: A new look. London: Quartet Books.
17.
Faludi, S. (1999). Stiffed: The betrayal of the American man. New York: William Morrow and Co.
18.
Ferrante, J. (1995). Sociology: A Global Perspective. Belmont, CA: Wadsworth Publishers.
19.
Flax, J. (1990). Postmodernism and gender relations in feminist theory. In Nicholson, L. J.(Ed.), Feminisnzl postmodernism (pp. 39-62). New York: Routledge.
20.
Fox-Genovese, E. (1991). Feminism without illusions: A critique of individualism . Chapel Hill, NY: The University of North Carolina Press.
21.
Fregoso, R.L. (1998). Recycling colonialist fantasies on the Texas borderlands . In H. Naficy (Ed.), Home, Exile, homeland anthology: Film, media and the politics of place. New York/London: Routledge.
22.
Freitas, A.J., Kaiser, S.B., & Hammidi, T. (1996). Communities, commodities, cultural space, and style. Journal of Homosexuality, 31 (1&2), 83-107.
23.
Gaines, J., & Herzog, C. (Eds.). (1990). Fabrications: Costume and the female body. New York/London : Routledge.
24.
Griggs, C. (1998). S/he: Changing sex and changing clothes. Oxford, UK: Berg.
25.
Harding, S. (1996). Thinking science, thinking society. Social Text, 14(1&2), 15-26.
26.
hooks, b. (1990). Yearning: Race, gender, and cultural politics . Boston, MA: South End Press.
27.
hooks, b. (1993). Sisters of the yam: Black women and self-recovery . Boston, MA: South End Press.
28.
hooks, b. (1994). Teaching to transgress: Education as the practice of freedom. New York/London: Routledge.
29.
Kemp, S., & Squires, J. (Eds.) (1997). Feminisms: Subjectivities (pp. 216-219). Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press.
30.
Kaiser, S.B. (1991). Gender relations, clothing, and appearance: Discovering a common ground with feminist thought. In S. B. Kaiser & M. L. Damhorst (Eds.), Critical linkages in textiles and clothing subject matter: Theory, method, and practice (Special Publication #4, pp. 210-222). Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association .
31.
Kondo, D. (1997). About face: Performing race in fashion and theater . New York/London: Routledge.
32.
Kunkel, C. (1999). A visual analysis of feminist dress. In M. L. Damhorst, K. A. Miller , & S. O. Michelman (Eds.), The meanings of dress (pp. 183-189). New York: Fairchild Publications.
33.
McRobbie, A. (1997). A new kind of rag trade? In A. Ross (Ed.), No sweat: Fashion, free trade, and the rights of garment workers (pp. 275-289). New York/ London: Verso.
34.
McRobbie, A. (1998). British fashion design: Rag trade or image industry ? London/New York: Routledge.
35.
McRobbie, A., & Nava, N. (Eds.). (1984). Gender and generation. London: Macmillan Education.
36.
Michelman, S.O. (1991). Textile and clothing and feminist theory: A meaningful alliance. In S. B. Kaiser & M. L. Damhorst (Eds.), Critical linkages in textiles and clothing subject matter: Theory, method, and practice (Special Publication #4, pp. 203-209). Monument, CO: International Textile and Apparel Association.
37.
Michelman, S.O. (1999). Appearance for gender and sexuality. In M. L. Damhorst, K. A. Miller , & S. O. Michelman (Eds.), The meanings of dress (pp. 168-176). New York: Fairchild Publications.
38.
Moi, T. ( 1997). Feminist, female, feminine. In S. Kemp & Judith Squires (Eds.), Feminisms (pp. 246-250). Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press.
39.
O'Neal, G. (1998a). African-American aesthetic of dress: Current manifestations. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 16(4), 167-174.
40.
O'Neal, G. (1998b). African American women's professional dress as expression of ethnicity. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences , 90, 28-33.
41.
Paoletti, J., & Kidwell, C. (1989). Men and women: Dressing the part. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press.
42.
Parker, R. (1984). The subversive stitch: Embroidery and the making of the feminine. London: Women's Press.
43.
Ramazanoglu, C. (1989). Feminism and the contradictions of oppression . London/New York: Routledge.
44.
Richardson, L. (1997). Fields of play: Constructing an academic life . New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press.
45.
Roach-Higgins, M.E. Ellen. (1993). A social science of dress, 1947-1966: A personal view. In S. J. Lennon & L. D. Bums (Eds.), Social science aspects of dress: New directions (ITAA Special Publication #5, pp. 2-24). Monument, CO: International Textiles and Apparel Association .
46.
Ross, A. (1997). No sweat: Fashion, free trade, and the rights of garment workers. New York/London : Verso.
47.
Taylor, V., & Rupp L. (1998). Women's culture and lesbian feminist activism: A reconsideration of cultural feminism. In K. Myers, C. Anderson, & B. Risman (Eds.), Feminist foundations: Toward transforming sociology (pp. 329-356). Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage Publications.
48.
Weedon, C. (1997). Feminist practice and poststructuralist theory (2nd ed.). Oxford, UK: Blackwell Publishers Ltd.
49.
Wilson, E. (1985). Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
50.
Zita, J. (1998). Body talk: Philosophical reflections on sex. New York: Columbia University Press.
