A taste of science: Making the subjective objective in the California wine world

Abstract

This article is about the relationship between the categories of the subjective and the objective in the late 20th-century California wine world, about attempts to transform ‘soft’ subjective judgments into ‘hard’ objective descriptions and evaluations, and about the role of both sensory science and chemistry in such attempts. It focuses on research done at the University of California, Davis, from about the 1950s to the 1980s by the enologist Maynard Amerine, his co-workers, and successors. It suggests ways in which these materials might prompt attention to the role of subjective judgment and the marketplace in other forms of late modern science.