Raw wool fibers were extracted with CO2 with different organic modifiers (acetone, ethanol and methanol) at constant pressure and temperature. The influence of experimental extraction conditions on the properties of extracted wools was studied to determine the suitability of the fibers for textile applications. Suitable wool wax removal from raw wool fibers was qualitatively evaluated by optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy observation as well as by whiteness, yellowness and brightness measurements. Moreover, the possible bulk fiber modification as a consequence of internal wool lipid extraction belonging to the cell membrane complex was assessed by determining the bursting resistance and dyeing behavior. The results suggest that both CO2/ethanol and CO2/methanol extraction methods provide well-scoured wool fibers with an acceptable dyeing behavior, the bulk modification being negligible.
Datyner, A., Removal of impurities, in "Surfactants in Textile Processing" (Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 14), Marcel Dekker, New York, 1983, pp. 55-65.
2.
Rippon, J.A., The structure of wool, in "Wool Dyeing", Lewis, D. M. (ed.), Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, 1992, pp. 1-51.
3.
Anderson, C.A. , Mechanisms of raw wool scouring--The role of the protein contaminant layer, Textile Res. J., 53(12), 741- 750 (1983).
4.
Robinson, B. , Latest developments in raw wool scouring, Indian Textile J., 13, 40-51 (1988).
5.
Robinson, B., Lee, C.S.P. and Shaw, T., "A comparative study of raw wool scouring systems. I: Effect of scouring systems on commercial carding/combing operation in top production", Textile Technology . Technical Information Bulletin TIL/ET-14, International Wool Secretariat, 1993.
6.
Rouette, H.K., "Encyclopedia of Textile Finishing", Springer, Berlin, 2001.
7.
Cygnarowicz-Provost, M., King, J.W., Marmer, W.N. and Magidman, P., Extraction of woolgrease with supercritical carbon dioxide, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 71(2), 223-225 (1994).
8.
Alzaga, R., Pascual, E., Erra, P. and Bayona, J.M., Development of a novel supercritical fluid extraction procedure for lanolin extraction from raw wool, Anal. Chim. Acta, 381, 39-48 (1999).
9.
Domínguez, C., Jover, E., Bayona, J.M. and Erra, P., Effect of the carbon dioxide modifier on the lipid composition of wool wax extracted from raw wool, Anal. Chim. Acta, 477, 233-242 (2003).
10.
Domínguez, C., Jover, E., Garde, F., Bayona, J.M. and Erra, P., Characterization of supercritical fluid extracts from raw wool by TLC-FID and GC-MS, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. , 80(7), 717-724 (2003).
11.
Krsinic, G.L. , Ranford, S.L., Rankin, D.A. and Walls, R.J., Thin layer chromatography of wool fibre extracts recovered using supercritical carbon dioxide, dichloromethane and ethanol extraction, in "Proceedings of the International Wool Textile Organisation", Report Number 18, Technical Committee, Harrogate Meeting, 1995.
12.
Leeder, J.D. , The cell membrane complex and its influence on the properties of the wool fibre, WoolSci. Rev., 63, 3-35 (1986).
13.
Jover, E., Domínguez, C., Erra, P. and Bayona, J.M., Comparative characterization of a wool wax extract by two complementary chromatographic techniques, J. Cosm. Sci., 57, 23-35 ( 2006).
14.
Bayona, J.M., Erra, P., Alzaga, R., Julià, M.R., Garde, F. and Domínguez, C., "Procedimiento de obtención de lanolina y lana exenta de plaguicidas ", Spanish Patent Number 9901361 (1999).
15.
Bayona, J.M., Erra, P., Alzaga, R., Moldovan, Z., Domínguez, C., Jover, E., Recasens, F.J. and Larrayoz, M.A., "Procedimiento de obtención de fracciones de lípidos con dióxido de carbono presurizado a partir de lana o lanolina", Spanish Patent Number 200101341 (2001).
16.
The Woolmark Company, "Woolmark Test Method TM 136: Dichloromethane extractable matter", The Woolmark Company, West Yorkshire, United Kingdom 2000.
17.
IWTO-35-87 (E), Method for the measurement of the whiteness of wool slivers (1987).
18.
IWTO 4-60 (E). Method of test for solubility of wool in alkali (1972).
19.
Beavers, R.B. , The properties of Hercosett + primal resin mixtures used in wool fiber coating technology, Textile Res. J., 46, 223-227 (1976).
20.
Beavers, R.B. , The swelling of Hervcoset® resin, Textile Res. J., 46, 636-640 (1976).
21.
Demir, A., Karahan, H.A., Ozdogan, E., Öktem, T. and Seventekin, E., The synergic effects of alternative methods in wool finishing, Fibres Textiles East. Europe, 16(67), 89-94 (2008).
22.
Gacén, J., Significado de los parámetros químicos de la lana, in "Lana: Parámetros Químicos", Ed. UPC, Terrassa, España , 1989, pp. 17-40.
23.
Coderch, L. , Fonollosa, J., Martí, M., Garde, F., de la Maza, A. and Parra, J.L., Extraction and analysis of ceramides from internal wool lipids, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 79(12), 1215-1220 (2002).
24.
Schmidt, A. , Bach, E., Schollmeyer, E., Damage to natural and synthetic fibers treated in supercritical carbon dioxide at 300 bar and temperatures up to 160°C , Textile Res. J., 72(11), 1023-1032 (2002).
25.
Gacén, J., Fibras naturals, in "Fibras Textiles. Propiedades y Descripción", Ed. UPC, Terrassa, España, 1991, pp. 153-195.
26.
Maclaren, R.A. and Milligan, B., "Wool Science: The Chemical Reactivity of the Wool Fibre", Science Press, Australia, 1981, p. 109.
27.
Vigo, T.L., "Textile Processing and Properties", Elsevier, Amsterdam, 1994, p. 112.
28.
Jocic, D., Vílchez, S., Topalovic, T., Molina, R., Navarro, A., Jovancic, P., Julià, M.R. and Erra, P., Effect of low-temperature plasma and chitosan treatment on wool dyeing with acid red 27, J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 97, 2204-2214 ( 2005).
29.
Barni, E., Savarino, P. and Viscardi, G., "Industrial Applications of Microemulsions", Vol. 66, Solans, C. and Kunieda, H. (eds), Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997, p. 209.
