Abstract
The aim of this pilot study was to investigate whether dynamic eccentric-concentric strength training of the finger flexors may improve the performance of rock climbers. A device was developed for training the finger flexors in a dynamic eccentric and concentric fashion. Forty seven rock climbers participated in the retrospective study and answered an online questionnaire. The duration of the training averaged 19 months (SD 16, range 1–60) with 40 minutes per week (SD 38, range 5–210) and constituted 15% of the whole climbing training (range 5–100). The difficulty of climbing redpoint style (known route) improved significantly on average from 12.1 to 14.4(numeric scale of difficulty 1–24, in relation to the French scale grade 3–9a), on sight style (unknown route) from 9.5 to 11.4 and boulder (short routes) from 8.7 to 11.8. In comparison improvement of climbing performance during the 12 months before the start of the dynamic training was significantly less averaging redpoint 11.6 to 12.1, on sight 9.3 to 9.5 and boulder 7.9 to 8.7. Dynamic eccentric-concentric strength training of the finger flexors in rock climbers may improve climbing performance and may be of value in addition to the static strength training.