Abstract
Introduction
Sustainability is a complex topic that draws on a variety of disciplines. There are varying definitions; however, there is agreement on the three categories by which sustainability is traditionally categorized. These are sometimes referred to as the three pillars of sustainabil-ity: social, environmental, and economic. These pillars are intertwined on many levels.
Awareness of sustainability has increased over time. This interest has come from all sectors of the textile and apparel supply chain in addition to many other industries. The textile and apparel supply chain is comprehensive and complex, including design and development of products; fiber production and processing; yarn and fabric production; wet processing and finishing; product manufacturing, company and product marketing; distribution and retailing; and consumers purchase, use, and disposal. This increasing awareness and interest is not just limited to textiles, apparel, fashion, and retail, but also includes numerous industries such as oil, food, agriculture, travel, transportation, and shipping.
In the last three decades of the 20th century, the textile industry evaluated ways to reduce water and chemical use, including the introduction of foam dyeing and finishing, reduced liquor ratios, and wastewater treatment programs to remove chemicals from processing effluent. In the mid-1990s, John Elkington coined the term “triple bottom line” identifying an accounting framework which pushed for a systems change to include social and environmental responsibility, in addition to profit and loss accounting. In 1997, the Apparel Industry Partnership Agreement was created. Members of the partnership were to adhere to a code of conduct that encouraged fair labor practices and corporate accountability.
The global textile complex is typically divided into textiles and apparel. The textile mill market, projected to reach US$842.6 billion, and the global apparel market, projected to reach US$1,004.6 billion in 2021, have historically been identified as contributors to both social and environmental sustainability concerns. However, industry leaders have worked to reduce negative impacts, and this continues today.
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has been fundamental in facilitating and disseminating information to its members and the industry regarding sustainability principles. AATCC, through publications including AATCC Review, AATCC Journal of Research (AJOR), and AATCC News newsletters, presentations at numerous AATCC International Conferences and symposia, and test method committee work, have contributed to sustainability awareness and communication within the textile industry.
This Sustainability Special Issue of AJOR includes articles on four critical issues affecting our diverse industry. Johnson et al. have provided a review of the waste cotton supply chain, including non-traditional textile products, with different end-of-use options. Vinueza et al. determined and characterized the biodegradation of reactive dyes using high resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). Frost et al. compared the loss of fiber fragments (microfibers) from fabrics with varying amounts of virgin and recycled cotton and polyester during accelerated laundering. Chakraborty and Ambedkar explored replacing sodium hydrosulfite in the indigo dyeing of cotton with an alkaline catalase and iron (II) sulfate reduction system. It is critical that academia and corporate interests continue to collaborate and pursue research into new technological developments to help meet textile-related sustainability goals and provide a brighter future for industry, consumers, and the environment.
Taking this opportunity, we would like to thank Gang Sun (Editor-in-Chief, AJOR) who offers this Special Issue of AJOR, with valuable advice and support, to us for sharing.
Special thanks also to the Journal's editorial team (Maria Thiry, J. Michael Quante, Ann Holland, and Bliss Coleman Abrantes) for their support of this Special Issue.