Abstract
A brand might achieve a lot of success throughout the course of its product life cycle, or it might lose its sheen over time. Brand revitalization is a remedy for providing a dying brand with a new lease on life. This case study presents the story of Boroline, a well-known creation from Gourmohan Dutta in 1950s, that had lost its relevance in the 1990s and made a comeback in 2000 onwards in one of the fastest growing markets in the world, that is, India. By comprehending how Boroline was able to reclaim prominence through time, the case presented an idea of brand revitalization from an Indian viewpoint. This case study discloses many open-ended questions related to root cause of real-world problems and wants students to explore potential solutions. By conducting a case study evaluation, students could develop the creative skills of thinking out of the box about selecting best solution for emerging challenges, decision making in complex situations, coping with ambiguities.
Learning Outcomes
Challenges faced by skincare industry
Contribution of Gourmohan Dutta towards skincare industry
Journey of Boroline (from product to brand)
Reason of failure of Boroline
Revitalization strategies adopted by protagonist for Boroline
Introduction
Skincare is the practice of protecting and improving one’s physical appearance by using skin health management items, such as creams, lotions, powders, serums and other cosmetics (Innovist, 2021; Reese, 2022). Skincare products are becoming more popular as the population of young people is growing, disposable income rising and consumer attitudes shifting towards healthy skin. Indian skincare market has witnessed a considerable growth over the years. Rising consumption rate of skincare products for face cleansing, face masks, face moisturizers and acne treatments is also contributing to the growth. Furthermore, these items are becoming more accessible to end users by appearing in pharmacies and drug shops, beauty salons, department stores, supermarkets/hypermarkets and Internet sites. The Indian skincare business generated $2.47 billion in sales in 2017 and is predicted to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.5% from 2021 to 2027, reaching $5.03 billion by 2027 (Allied Analytics LLP, 2020). Major players of skincare industry in India include Procter & Gamble, The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., Patanjali Ayurved Limited, Johnson & Johnson Services, Inc., Emami Limited, Kao Corporation, the Himalaya Drug Company, L’oréal S.A., Unilever Plc. and Beiersdorf AG.
Challenges Faced by Skincare Industry
It is accurate to argue that marketing circle exists in the context of brands. Market value of some fortune companies depends more on branding. At present, Indian skincare companies are spreading their market reach across the geographical boundaries of the world. Every year, numerous skincare health-related brands are being launched and re-launched to provide a variety of options to consumers (Tripathi & Chandra, 2023). With their launch, the demand for new, more modern products is increasing quite rapidly and life expectancy of older, long-established brands is getting abbreviated. There are companies that were once very successful but have lost their relevance due to changes in consumer preferences, sophisticated technology, government rules and regulations and legal concerns. In such situation, it becomes challenging for old skincare businesses to sustain their image and retain consumers for long (Tripathi & Chandra, 2023).
Building a strong brand for any business is essential. It is a powerful driver of sales, profit and shareholder value. In today’s competitive environment, where companies are competing for large market share and attempting to maintain it, brand rejuvenation is beneficial (Chandra & Tripathi, 2023). Brand revitalization is a method for giving existing items a new lease on life while keeping in mind the marketing trends and syncing with the changing tastes and preferences of new-age consumers without compromising the brand’s original identity (Chandra & Tripathi, 2023).
Contribution of Gourmohan Dutta for Skincare Industry
Pre-independence
One-hundred years ago years ago, when the ‘Make-in-India’ project was launched, a pre-Gandhian Swadeshi movement wrapped up the nation in the wake of the partition of Bengal in 1905 (Ghosh, 2017). India’s battle for freedom from British guidelines was at its speed. It became a figure of protest and agitation among the Indians against imported and foreign goods (Sriram, 2017). This Swadeshi thrust gave rise to three prominent pharmaceutical companies from Calcutta: BCPW, India’s first pharmaceutical company, Dey’s Medical and G. D. Pharmaceutical. Unfortunately, only Gourmohan Dutta’s G. D. pharmaceutical company could withstand the test of time (Ghosh, 2017). In 1929, this established businessman saw the need to create indigenous items rather than importing them. Gourmohan Dutta joined the Swedish movement and worked day and night, giving birth to the iconic green tube ‘Boroline’. His creation was continued to be positioned as an over-the-counter antiseptic perfumed cream. It was one of the few Swadeshi skincare brands that symbolized the fight for economic independence. Even the British government was astounded by the act of an ordinary man, where all the schemes to stop the cream’s manufacture were foiled, and his sweet-smelling cream made its way into every household. Gourmohan Dutta succeeded overnight by formulating the cream with readily available components such as boric acid, zinc oxide and lanolin, all of which had exceptional healing effects (Community, 2016). Boroline is the first brand that came to mind when thinking of a Swadeshi brands. Most Indians would have used it at some point in their lives or, at very least, knew someone who did. Boroline is influential in treating dry, rough skin, sunburn, frostbite, itching and skin infections, as well as newborn diaper rash, cracked heels and even stitch scars. Gourmohan Dutta’s flagship brand created a link that connected pre-independence India from Kashmir to Kanyakumari. It quickly became one of India’s most admired brands, suitable for all skin types, consumers of all ages, and all-weather conditions. It helped Kashmiris cure frostbite and chapped skin (due to sub-zero temperatures), whereas it benefited South Indians by protecting their skin against the sunlight (Community, 2016). Kolkata-based digital marketing expert Siddhartha Sahni said to The Print (Jha, 2019):
Boroline is a great example of Make in India. It is also a great example of India’s economic self-sufficiency at a time when India was ruled by the British.
When India gained independence, the company became a symbol of patriotic entrepreneurship, to the point where, on 15 August 1947, Debasis Dutta, grandson of the company’s founder and company’s managing director, placed advertisements in newspapers announced a free distribution of Boroline tubes in honour of the nation’s independence. It was estimated that over 1 lakh tubes were distributed to commemorate the auspicious occasion (Sriram, 2017).
Organizational Hierarchy
The company has five serving directors. The company is connected to two other companies through its directors. Mahashweta Dutta was appointed on 01 September 1998 and was longest serving director for more than 25 years. Debashis Dutta was appointed as director on 01 October 2001 followed by Saumitra Pal on 01 May 2014. Pratik Mukherjee was appointed as director on 06 August 2019. Currently, Tushar Kar is the director who was appointed on 16 March 2023 (
Production, Logistic and Marketing
Gourmohan Dutta built a logistical, marketing and manufacturing infrastructure with the association of his people with whom he worked for more than three decades. His company, G. D. Pharmaceuticals, specialized in various over-the-counter (OTC) items and healthcare cosmetics, and it served a large Indian market through 650 distribution channels throughout India (G. D. Pharmaceuticals Pvt. Ltd, 2023). It had two manufacturing units. One was located in Chakbagi, West Bengal, 16 kilometres from Kolkata, and consisted of a floor size of 48,000 square feet on a 20-acre property. The other unit was located in the Mohan Nagar Industrial Area in Ghaziabad, 5 kilometres from Delhi, and measured approximately 8000 square feet (Community, 2016). A large water reservoir of 6000 sq. ft. was maintained to biodegrade all pre-treated effluents and to provide a balanced ecosystem (Community, 2016). It had offices and warehousing facilities in 16 regional headquarters across India. The production plant employed fully automated machinery with minimal human intervention, ensuring consistent quality. Every stage of the process used to be supervised through stringent standard operating procedures (SOPs) and pre-assigned qualified personnel to track each batch of raw materials for eventual distribution. Aside from that, both factories were adhered to good manufacturing practice (GMP) guidelines (Online, 2016). He also made efforts to obtain licenses from the drug control authorities, the labour department, the factory control board, the pollution control board and all other relevant government bodies. Additionally, the company was remaining endeavoured to environment friendly by utilizing only recyclable materials. The garbage generated was biodegradable as well. Effluents released during the production process by the manufacturing plant were pre-treated before being considered for bio-degradation in a water reservoir. Additionally, it was added to plantation projects to maintain green cover.
Market Share
Gourmohan Datta was able to maintain the success of his flagship brand. He also worked towards strengthening of its distribution channels in Eastern region. Over the years, he consistently maintained quality and pricing. His new green-and-white round (1 gram) box costs Rs. 10, even though the green tube (1 gm) costs Rs. 22 (Pal, 2019). Boroline was named to the ‘Superbrand India’ list for 2003–2005, and the council encouraged the company to participate in the second edition (Gupta, 2013). Boroline had a 21% market share in the antiseptic creams category in 2010. Its profit margin has increased to 25%, with profits of Rs 19.06 crore on total revenue of Rs 114 crore in 2013–2014 (Sinha, 2016). For 2014–2015, the net profit was listed at Rs. 25.67 crore as of 31 March 2015 on total revenue of Rs. 138.93 crore (Sinha, 2016). Compared to roughly 3 lakh outlets in 2010, the Little Green Tube was available in over 7 lakh retail locations across India (Gupta, 2013). Boroline contributed 60% of G. D. Pharmaceuticals’ revenue in 2015–2016, which was reported to be roughly Rs.150 crore (Paul, 2016). In 2015–2016, Boroline was also named India’s most admired brand (Sriram, 2017). Boroline had a 25% share of India’s antiseptic skincare industry, worth roughly 450 crore in 2017 (Sinha, 2016). The company sold 18,450 kg of Boroline in 2018–2019, generating 159.35 crore revenue (Pal, 2019). Operating revenues range of the company was INR 100–500 crore for the financial year ending on 31 March 2022 (
Boroline: Brand Saga
Earn Brand Recognition
Gourmohan Datta named his antiseptic cream based on two ingredients: ‘Boro’ from boric powder, having mild anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties and ‘Oline’ from the term “oleum,” which implies oil (Sriram, 2017). Boroline consisted of combination of waxes, essential oils, zinc oxide and Lanolin. He chose the elephant as the most suitable brand emblem for the cream because it was an auspicious animal that represents strength and stability and a symbol of luck and success. Gourmohan Datta was successful in transporting the audience to the retro era of transistor radios, where the jingle ‘shurobhito (fragrant) antiseptic cream, Boroline’ potentially stayed in the heads for years after the listeners first heard it. Soon, this perfumed cream, which has transformed into a cure for virtually all skin problems, had captured consumers’ minds with its indisputable and reliable quality. It had become a household name; even knockoffs could not compete. Fascinated by its utility, Sawan Dutta, a singer-vlogger, created quite a stir with her video. ‘It’s nice for my skeen, my keeth, and my keen’, she sang in an overdone Bengali accent.
The singer, who, like many others, grew up with a green tube in the house, said (Pal, 2019):
Some friends had been making fun of bongs for using Boroline to solve every problem in their life, so I thought let’s see if I can make a song around that.
While she was surprised by the outpouring of support for the video, she claimed that the cream was ‘irreplaceable, unique, does different roles, and is inexpensive’. The cream was trendy among Indian beauty vloggers, who freely share skincare tips with their audiences. A senior executive associated with the brand said (Sinha, 2016):
The green packaging and elephant symbol of the brand can be recognizable by a segment of consumers who cannot read or write. In West Bengal, Boroline is used by the poor and working class. It is an affordable product. These people call it “Haathiwaala cream” (cream with an elephant symbol).
Forward-looking Approach
Boroline was popular among the commoners, but Murari Mohan Dutta, the founder’s son, made the cream recognizable among the achievers of that time. In 1982, Jawaharlal Nehru sponsored Boroline when invited to the International Football Gold Cup (now known as the Nehru Cup). Boroline was praised for motivating people in hostile environment by a female scientist who crossed Antarctica in 1983 and military stations high in the Himalayas. The advertisement appeared in newspapers and magazines, radio spots and even outdoor publicity, and it was so substantial that the famous tune ‘Khusbudar antiseptic cream Boroline’ remained relevant even for decades (Ghosh, 2017). When the concept of sponsorship had not come into existence, Boroline was present at various occasions, festival celebrations and sports fixtures. Debashis Dutta said (Pal, 2019):
Publicity was by word of mouth.
In those days when there was no marketing and no advertisements, G. D. Pharma and Boroline became synonyms for each other. The brand strategist Harish Bijoor said (Jha, 2019):
The brand might have a fascinating and historically relevant origin story, but at the end of the day, its biggest driving force is not marketing or ads but the simplicity and usability of the product that caters to the largest organ of the body — the skin.
Connecting to Cultural Heritage
Years before its time, the elderly brand, enjoyed by three generations of Indians, symbolized the trust of decades of consumers. Boroline has earned a reputation as a compassionate and trustworthy family member who was always willing to help. Boroline was a genuine heritage brand, with culture, values and traditions significantly shaping its image. Bengali households used Boroline for centuries as a medicinal and cosmetic substance. Choosing such an indigenously created product over other skincare brands was a source of pride. People, mainly clients and consumers, put their faith and allegiance in this brand. As a result, Dutta was inspired to preserve the highest quality, texture, fragrance, packaging and general legacy of being in business for years. Every year, the price of everything went up except for Boroline. The Boroline people, as they were known, were never concerned with profit margins. According to them, the satisfaction and delight of millions of people motivated the entire team to work harder and better to preserve the essence of Antiseptic Cream (Pal, 2019). Dutta said:
How this product continues to have such an emotional chord with our customers even today — everywhere in the world — is incredible.
Brand expert Harish Bijoor described Boroline as ‘the mother of all antiseptic creams’ (Sinha, 2016). He said:
Boroline brand loyalty is a legend. This spans across regions, never mind the fact that this is a brand that was all about the East of India. Basic skincare means Boroline to a lot of women, men and children alike in this country.
Consistency with a Change
Gourmohan Dutta was fortunate to weave Boroline like a fabric into people’s lives by intelligent positioning and changing its taglines as a ‘tender face cream’ in 1950s, which was positioned as a cosmetic face cream, and then promoting itself as ‘Boroline for the skin, skin needs Boroline’ in 1960s (Sinha, 2016). In the 1970s, he cleverly changed its image as an ‘indispensable’ brand by saying, ‘Boroline has no substitute’; then went on to emphasize its trustworthiness by calling itself ‘hardworking cream’ in 1980s and surged ahead to dispose of copycat versions by calling itself ‘the original, Boroline skin healthy skin’. By the end of the millennium, he sold Boroline with the tagline ‘WOW FACTOR!!!! Boroline works wonder’ (Joshi, 2009). He claimed that customer feedback helped his people to enhance the tagline. In 1990s, competition built up, but he was firm towards its packaging to counter the challenge and trusted the quality to keep itself on top. To protect its image, Gourmohan even refused to use the ‘free gift’ gimmick to sell the product. Ramanujam Sridhar, founder and CEO, Brand-Comm said (Sinha, 2019):
Neither its packaging nor formulation has changed for most part of its eight-decade old journey. The basic feature of green tube, the elephant logo and the brand font would be continued remain same. But the respect of millions of consumers whose affection and continued support has made Boroline what it is, we do not subject the brand to drastic changes. Said Dutta
The vast rural clientele, the majority of who were illiterate, was one reason for this. People in rural regions had already identified Boroline as ‘Haathi brand’ and the green and white packaging as their source of comfort (Sriram, 2017). Any changes in the logo or packaging would cause a loss of brand recognition. At later stages, he introduced hair oil with Eleen in the second half of the 1990s. Penorub, a pain reliever, was introduced in 2004, and Suthol, a smoothing antiseptic skin lotion, was introduced in 2007 (Gupta, 2013).
But Where Did Gourmohan Dutta Fail?
Numerous troubles and problems plagued the venerable brand, and intense competition was one of them. A range of commercial skincare creams with upgraded utilities were emerged in the market by different skincare companies. For example, Boroplus or Borosoft came up with a new value proposition: ‘non-sticky antiseptic cream’. Vaseline petroleum jelly offered a collection of skin creams, soaps, lotions, cleansers and deodorants with its tagline—‘The healing power of Vaseline’. Nivea also focused on full body care. These products were able to pique the interest of consumers.
Nonetheless, the flowery scent of new beauty creams captivated the consumers. They were well aware that Boroline was of high quality. But, on the other hand, thick and sticky texture prioritized by Dutta in his cream was a source of discomfort despite its overpowering fragrance (Joshi, 2009). Instead of Boroline, Boroplus or Borosoft was preferred by office workers. Even if they did use it, they did not apply to their faces during the day. The consumers started using Boroline, believing it only cured cuts, wounds or bruised skin problems. In this era of pure consumerism, young consumers perceived Boroline as a ‘granny brand’, useful but outmoded!
Urbi Chatterjee, an associate of Katha Books, New Delhi, said (Jha, 2019):
Now, in a sense, it’s like a poor man’s moisturizer. When I’m feeling fancy, I’ll go indulge in some Body Shop. But when I’m flat-out broke, I know Boroline is always there to rescue me.
He also failed to engage the cream with changing youth preferences. The brand’s core target group was middle-aged/older segment, which brought a shorter life span as compared to the youth, and as a consequence led to lesser consumption time. Boroline did not consider teenagers to be the target for the product since most cases of intense dryness and skin problems start between 25 and 30 years old. Mahashweta Dutta, director, G. D. Pharmaceuticals, explained (Paul, 2019):
We have never targeted the older generation;neither do our ads reflect that
Another challenge that Dutta faced was marketing communications in both one-way and two-way communication channels. Unfortunately, the Boroline people were putting all their efforts in producing antiseptic cream without adequately communicating the product attributes to the end users. Although he created high brand awareness, its relevance was low in the western regions of India. Only a few loyalists stuck with the product, while others, especially the new generation, started moving their choices towards Boroplus, Borosoft and Vaseline. Before the 90s, Boroline was the market leader in the skincare product category. However, the brand was neither growing as per the category growth nor declining or minimal growth (i.e., at 2%) (Singh, n.d.). The market share of Boroline was slipped below 20%, while its competitor brands (such as Boroplus) enjoy a market share of 74% in 269 crores in the antiseptic market (Kotecha, 2015). The scenario changed, and Boroline slipped from the market leader brand; hence, it can be stated that the brand growth is declining.
How did Gourmohan Dutta’s Boroline Revived?
Gourmohan stayed close to its original mission of serving the country. Armed with a new pack and young brand endorser, he laid out its arrangements to remain applicable. Over the years, this Indian antiseptic cream has amassed a pool of fierce loyalists. Dutta had launched a small, 10-gram container (dibbi) as another movement amicable pack for adolescents (Joshi, 2009). Boroline also debuted a new tagline—‘Wake up to happy skin with Boroline’ in 2010 to encourage consumers to use it as a day cream (Joshi, 2009). He strategically transformed Boroline antiseptic cream into an all-purpose moisturizing cream instead of an antiseptic cream. Therefore, Boroline became an all-season cream catering to people’s needs. Boroline continued to be utilized by actresses, models and celebrities. Even so, the company considered every Boroline consumer as its brand ambassador. Raima Sen was picked as a Boroline brand spokesperson in 2009 after the firm learned that she had been an active user of the product for 7 years (Joshi, 2009). After Raima Sen, Sakshi Tanwar was chosen as a brand endorsement for Boroline for 4 years due to her national appeal and traditional Indian image (Bureau, 2018). Because of her classic beauty, Vidya Balan is widely known throughout the country. Both Vidya and Boroline exemplified the validity and agelessness that were the signs of true leaders (Bureau, 2018). Boroline has shown its presence on social media also. For instance, ace fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee posted his emotional and nostalgic feelings about Boroline on Instagram (Beauty, 2020). Smriti Irani, a well-known political figure, also shared interesting facts on Instagram about the origin and uses of Boroline (Ghosh, 2020). The company sponsored demand-generating activities and programmes. Dutta realized that in order to reclaim the market, he needed to connect and interact directly with its customers. The company once created a beauty contest, the Glosoft Popular Face Contest, to market their product, which not only meant to preserve the skin but also gave faces a healthy glow (Devang92, 2014). Gourmohan Dutta was also indulged in CSR exercises that centre on providing financial aid to underprivileged patients (adults and children) for operations and corrective surgeries (Community, 2016). His brand was also associated with the arts; it sponsored the music festival Sahaj Parav. Gourmohan Dutta was planning to expand its retail penetration. In 2017, Dattu said (Community, 2016):
Market dynamics are changing and we are trying increasing our presence further by looking at the export market to open up and launch new products.
The company was also looking into homoeopathy as a potential prospect. Debashis Dutta, the MD of G. D. Pharmaceuticals, decided in 2020 to develop hand sanitizers, which became the most popular over-the-counter product due to the COVID-19 threat (Manna, 2020). The heritage pharma major said:
The new hand sanitiser — to be sold as Boroline Ruksha will have over 72% alcohol content along with Neem and Aloe vera extracts.
In 2021, the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) welcomed Boroline’s collaboration with Amazon India Fashion Week, praising the brand’s widespread recognition and appeal in India (Bureau, 2018). The concept was that fashion enhances beauty and Boroline maintains it. Another explanation was that Boroline continued to be a part of Bengal’s life, culture and history. Brand’s involvement with fashion week would allow Boroline to declare, ‘Everyone needs Boroline’, with fashionistas among them (Sriram, 2017).
Discussion: Whether to Invest or Divest in Traditional Brands!
A brand is built by establishing a consistent point of differentiation over the time. It can not only be viewed as a symbol on a product or a set of visuals. It is the signature that must be renewed continuously through creative programs to yield long-term valuable products. Products are launched, sustained or may disappear, but a brand endures forever. Organizations must develop a unique value proposition in their products or brands to ensure their future growth is maintained. Any significant shift in the marketing environment could spell their downfall. To stand out, businesses must customize their products to meet the demands and desires of consumers. Successful brand management necessitates consistency in marketing decisions to provide a brand personality, purpose, substance and expression.
Skincare market is known for products of shorter life span where new innovative products are launched regularly, resulting in a competitive clutter. If a brand desires a comeback path, it requires revolutionary improvements rather than evolutionary changes. Any brand could disappear if not nurture properly.
Mature brands often have such a strong reputation of reliability that it takes several years for newer brands to catch up. Old brands often have a rich history and heritage, which can evoke positive emotions and nostalgia among consumers. It would help consumers to re-experience sentimental feelings of comfort and security from past eras. Older brands still enjoy a high equity in terms of awareness, image and utility, even if they have faded their identity over time. Old brands often come with interesting stories and anecdotes. These stories can be leveraged in marketing and branding efforts to create compelling narratives that resonate with consumers. Revitalizing an existing brand is less costly and a less risky deal than introducing a new brand, which can be much more expensive and its survival rate is also unpredictable. Some old brands have unique characteristics or historical elements that set them apart from competitors. This differentiation can be a valuable asset in a crowded market. Consumer preferences often cycle and what may have been decline could become trendy again. Revitalizing an old brand can align with current trends and appeal to new consumers. Reviving an old brand can be framed as a sustainable choice, as it avoids the environmental impact of creating an entirely new brand. Consumer needs have shifted from cosmetics to natural skincare, even incorporating multipurpose skincare practices. Being antiseptic as well as multipurpose in nature, investing in old skincare brands can provide all-in-one solutions to cure internal skin issues, that is, acne, pimples, allergies and prevent from the external environment, that is, dust, pollution and UV rays. Multi-dimensional functionality in skincare brands may encourage consumers towards a minimalist mentality, that is, these products acquire less self-space and ease consumers to stop buying thousands of skincare products for each body part.
While revitalizing old brands can offer several advantages, there are potential disadvantages and challenges associated with revitalization strategy. Consumer preferences and market trends evolve over time. Old brands may have negative associations or outdated images that could be challenging to overcome. These traditional brands may be associated with specific products, positioning or target demographics. This can limit the flexibility to adapt to changing market demands or to introduce innovative products that may not align with the brand’s historical identity. Some consumers may have experienced ‘brand fatigue’ if they remember the brand from its earlier iterations. With change in preference, consumers would switch their loyalty to newer alternatives that are readily available. If the target audience has shifted, then revitalization strategy could be ineffective to resonate with the new consumer base.
Companies may find it exciting and interesting when new brands are introduced that are aligned with current trends, such as clean and natural ingredients, sustainable packaging or specific skincare routines. New brands can be designed to cater to particular niche markets or address underserved consumer needs. They allow companies to engage with their target audience through marketing campaigns, social media and other promotional activities. Changes in demographics, such as the emergence of new consumer segments or shifts in age groups, may create opportunities for introducing brands that specifically cater to these demographics’ evolving needs and preferences. Introducing a new brand can be a strategic move to gain a competitive advantage over existing competitors. So, whether a company should invest or divest in this skincare business is still a debatable research topic.
Footnotes
Declaration of Conflicting Interests
The authors declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship and/or publication of this article.
Funding
The authors received no financial support for the research, authorship and/or publication of this article.
