In this article, I describe how I became interested in tourism and how I went about studying it, before expounding where the study of tourism in Bali led me. Tourism neither `polluted' Balinese culture (as some of its critics would have it) nor entailed its `renaissance' (as the proponents of `cultural tourism' are prone to claim). What happened is that the focus on `cultural' tourism convinced the Balinese people that they have a `culture', something precious and perishable that they perceive as a capital to be exploited and as a heritage to be protected. As it was being manipulated and appropriated by the tourism industry, their culture became not only a source of profit and pride, but also a cause of anxiety for the Balinese, who started wondering whether they were still authentically Balinese. Thus it is that tourism provoked an overriding concern about identity amongst the Balinese — about what they call their `Balineseness'.
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