Abstract
Ethnic and professional identities are generally viewed as incongruent. While ethnic cooking is seen as a reproduction of unaltered native dishes, professional cooking raises anticipation of invented culinary novelties. This study asks why Palestinian chefs fail to reconfigure ethnicity as an invaluable asset that enables their restaurant to partake in the realm of haute dining in Israel. The reconfiguration of Palestinian culinary knowledge as sophisticated and up-to-date, I argue, challenges their clients’ expectations that Palestinian chefs will prioritize the ethnic component of their identity over the professional one. This vision of Palestinian restaurants prevents the chefs from mobilizing the growing curiosity for ethnic cuisines, as well as the nostalgia for dishes that have disappeared from domestic kitchens, keeping them from penetrating the realm of haute cuisine en route to upward mobility and professional autonomy.
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