Recent feminist theory has attempted to bring considerations of women’s
agency into analyses of the meaning and consequence of beauty norms in
women’s lives. This article argues that these works have often been
limited by their use of individualist frameworks or by their neglect of
considerations of race and class. In this article I draw upon examples of
African-American utilization of beauty discourse and practices in collective efforts
to resist racism. I argue that there is no singular beauty standard enforced by a
unified male gaze. Instead, we should conceive of fields in which differently
located individuals and groups invest in and promote particular ways of seeing
beauty, producing both penalties and pleasures in women’s lives.
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