Culinary issues introduce a particular way of dealing with the construction of history and the processes of differentiation, commodification and exoticism. Food is related to sensory experiences, and taste and smell play a crucial role in the creation and representation of the past. This article studies the past as/through text and performance by looking at how history is brought back, represented and performed by food practices in the present. It analyses a number of Ottoman restaurants in terms of their expression of the Ottoman past and their ways of performing `Ottomanness' in the city of Istanbul.
Asitane (n.d.) Asitane Restaurant, URL (consulted February 2005): www.kariyeotel.com/ottomancuisine.htm
2.
Barenholdt, J.-O., M. Haldrup, J. Larsen and J. Urry (2004) Performing Tourist Places. Ashgate: Burlington.
3.
Beardsworth, A. and T. Keil (1997) Sociology on the Menu. London : Routledge.
4.
Bell, D. (2002) `Fragments for a New Urban Culinary Geography' , Journal for the Study of Food and Society6(1): 10-21.
5.
Bell, D. and G. Valentine (1997) Consuming Geographies: We Are Where We Eat. London: Routledge.
6.
Erbil, D. (2003) `Mutfakta sanki sultan var' (`As if There Is a Sultan in the Kitchen'), Sabah Cumartesi 21 June: 8.
7.
Ferguson, P.P. (2004) Accounting for Taste: The Triumph of French Cuisine . Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
8.
Feriye (n.d.) Feriye Restaurant, URL (consulted January 2005): www.feriye.com
9.
Finkelstein, J. (1998) `Dinin' Out: The Hyperreality of Appetite', in R. Scapp and B. Seitz (eds) Eating Culture. Albany: State University of New York Press.
10.
Hacı Abdullah (n.d.) Hacı Abdullah Restaurant, URL (consulted September 2005): www.haciabdullah.com.tr
11.
Hakan, Y. (2002) `Aaaa, bu sofrada Termuhindi Sabuni var' (`Oh, There Is Termuhindi Sabuni on This Table'), Zaman 18 May, URL (consulted January 2005): www.zaman.com.tr
12.
Heldke, L. (2003) Exotic Appetites: Ruminations of a Food Adventurer . London: Routledge.
13.
James, A. (1996) `Cooking the Books: Global or Local Identities in Contemporary British Food Cultures', in D. Howes (ed.) Cross-cultural Consumption: Global Markets, Local Realities. London: Routledge .
14.
Kırıkkanat, Mine (2001) `Turangalila', Radikal 28 May, URL (consulted January 2005): www.radikal.com.tr
15.
Kırım, A. (2005) `Geleneksel mutfağımızın gururu Hünkar Lokantası' (`Our Pride in Hünkar Traditional Cuisine') , Hürriyet 22 May, URL (consulted January 2005): www.hurriyetim.com.tr
16.
Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, B. (1999) `Playing to the Senses: Food as a Performance Medium' , Performance Research4(1): 1-30.
17.
Law, L. (2001) `Homecooking: Filipino Women and Geographies of the Senses in Hong Kong', Ecumene: A Journal of Cultural Geographies8(3): 264-83.
18.
Lowenthal, D. (1985) The Past is a Foreign Country. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
19.
Lowenthal, D. (1998) The Heritage Crusade and the Spoils of History . Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
20.
Milliyet (2002) `Hünkar geleneği devam ediyor' (`Hünkar Tradition Continues'), 16 May, URL (consulted January 2005): www.milliyet.com.tr
Özge, M. (2003) `Yoğurtlu tutmaçı, mutanceneyi, çorba-i hassayı biliyor musunuz?' (`Do You Know Yogurt Tutmaç, Mutancene and Çorba-i Hassa?'), Zaman 23 August, URL (consulted January 2004 ): www.zaman.com.tr
23.
Pollock, D. (1998) `Introduction: Making History Go', in D. Pollock (ed.) Exceptional Spaces: Essays in Performance and History. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press.
24.
Probyn, E. (2000) Carnal Appetites: FoodSexIdentities. New York: Routledge.
25.
Sabah (2004) `Hünkar sofrasıyla Atina yollarına düşüyor' (`Hünkar with its Dishes Is on Its Way to Athens'), 19 February, URL (consulted March 2005): www.sabah.com.tr
26.
Şavkay, T. (1998) `Yemek ve Felsefe' (`Food and Philosophy'), Hürriyet 8 November.
27.
Sutton, D.E. (2001) Remembrance of Repasts: An Anthropology of Food and Memory. Oxford: Berg.
28.
Turkish Times (2003) `Restoranın trendisi olmaz' (`There Is No Such Thing as Trendy Restaurants'), 15 June-15 July, URL (consulted March 2005): www.turkishtime.org
29.
Warde, A. and L. Martens (2000) Eating Out: Social Differentiation, Consumption and Pleasure. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
30.
Wilk, R. (2002) `Food and Nationalism: The Origins of "Belizian Food"', in W. Belasco and P. Scranton (eds) Food Nations: Selling Taste in Consumer Societies. New York: Routledge.
31.
Zukin, S. (1995) The Cultures of Cities. Oxford : Blackwell.
