Leather nostalgia: Constructed histories of Dutch leathermen through national discourses of tolerance and white innocence

Abstract

Through following sentiments of nostalgia and loss through leathermen’s personal narratives, and an analysis of 110 influential leather images, this article argues that constructed histories of the Dutch gay male leather scene reflect a nostalgia for a lost white gay masculinity that reproduces Dutch-centric conceptions of tolerance, freedom, and self. In these constructed pasts, the Dutch leather brotherhood purportedly developed as a space of exceptional acceptance, protected from encroaching straight and effeminate gay cultures in the 1970s. These memories feature a conceptualization of sexual freedom as indistinguishable from sexual expression, reflecting ideas of freedom and tolerance rooted in Dutch liberalism. Leather memorialization of sexual freedom mobilizes liberal conceptions of autonomy and self that locate freedom in expression, bound sexual pleasure to the individual, and disconnect it from sociopolitical contexts. In influential erotic images of hyperwhite men covered in black leather and dirt, the rare but exclusive appearance of people of color in racist sexual tropes reveals the racist discourse underlying imaginations of the past erotic scene. These constructed pasts continue to haunt larger fetish culture even after the closure of beloved leather bars—shaping their self-identities into the present, inflecting upon their current participation in leather culture, and creating the meaning they derive from this community.