Dress was integral to the ideals and practice of Staffordshire County Lunatic Asylum, an institution catering for all social classes. Lunatics’ appearance was used to gauge the standard of care inside the asylum and beyond. Clothing was essential for moral treatment and physical health. It helped to denote social and institutional class: clothes were integral to paupers’ admission; rich patients spent time and money dressing; for disturbed inmates and those who destroyed asylum attire, the consequence could be ‘secure dress’, which was fundamental to therapeutics. Later, when an ethos of non-restraint was introduced, the superintendent used patients’ appearance to propagate an image of his enlightened care.
Anderson C. ( 2001) Fashioning identities: convict dress in colonial south and southeast Asia in the nineteenth century. History Workshop Journal52: 153-174.
2.
Andrews J. ( 1991) Bedlam revisited: a history of Bethlem Hospital c.1634-c.1770. Unpublished PhD thesis, London University.
3.
Andrews J. ( 2007a) The (un)dress of the mad poor in England, c.1650-1850. Part 1. History of Psychiatry18 (1): 5-24.
4.
Andrews J. ( 2007b) The (un)dress of the mad poor in England, c.1650-1850. Part 2. History of Psychiatry18 (2): 131-156.
5.
Andrews J., Briggs A., Porter R., Tucker P. and Waddington K. ( 1997) The History of Bethlem. London: Routledge.
6.
Bartlett P. ( 1999) The Poor Law of Lunacy: The Administration of Pauper Lunatics in Mid-nineteenth-century England. London: Leicester University Press.
7.
Burnett J. ( 1969) A History of the Cost of Living. Harmondsworth , UK: Penguin.
8.
Cartwright FF and Biddis M. ( 2000) Disease and History, 2nd edn. Stroud, UK: Sutton.
9.
Cherry S. ( 2003) Mental Health Care in Modern England: The Norfolk Lunatic Asylum/St. Andrew’s Hospital, c.1810-1998. Woodbridge , UK: Boydell Press.
10.
Crammer J. ( 1990) Asylum History: Buckinghamshire County Pauper Lunatic Asylum - St John’s. London: Gaskell.
11.
DeLacy M. ( 1986) Prison Reform in Lancashire, 1700-1850: A Study in Local Administration. Stanford: Stanford University Press.
12.
Demousi J. ( 1997) ‘What punishment will be sufficient for these rebellious hussies?’ Headshaving and convict women in the female factories, 1820s-1840s . In: Duffield I and Bradley J (eds) Representing Convicts: New Perspectives on Convict Forced Labour Migration. London : Leicester University Press, 204-217.
13.
Digby A. ( 1985) Madness, Morality and Medicine: A Study of the York Retreat, 1796-1914. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
14.
Foucault M. ( 1991) Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison, translated by A Sheridan. London: Penguin Books; originally published in French in 1975.
15.
Foucault M. ( 1995) Madness and Civilization. A History of Insanity in the Age of Reason, translated by R Howard. London: Routledge; originally published in French in 1961.
16.
Godlee F. ( 1985) Aspects of non-conformity: Quakers and the lunatic fringe . In: Bynum WF, Porter R and Shepherd M (eds) The Anatomy of Madness: Essays in the History of Psychiatry. Vol. II: Institutions and Society. London: Tavistock, 73-85.
17.
Hughes R. ( 1987) The Fatal Shore: A History of the Transportation of Convicts to Australia, 1787-1868. London: Pan Books.
18.
Ignatieff M. ( 1980) A Just Measure of Pain: The Penitentiary in the Industrial Revolution, 1750-1850. (Morningside Edition). New York , and Guildford, UK: Columbia University Press.
19.
Longmate N. ( 2003) The Workhouse: A Social History, new edn London: Pimlico; origianlly published in1974.
20.
Maynard M. ( 1994) Fashioned from Penury: Dress as Cultural Practice in Colonial Australia. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
21.
Parry-Jones WL ( 1972) The Trade in Lunacy. A Study of Private Madhouses in England in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul.
22.
Perrot P. ( 1994) Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century, translated by R Bienvenu. Princeton : Princeton University Press.
23.
Porter R. ( 1990) Mind Forg’d Manacles. A History of Madness in England from the Restoration to the Regency. London: Penguin Books; originally published in 1987.
24.
Porter R. ( 1995) Howard’s beginning: prisons, discipline, hygiene . In: Creese R, Bearn RJ and Bynum WF (eds) Health of Prisoners: Historical Essays. London: Rodopi, 5-26.
25.
Priestley P. ( 1985) Victorian Prison Lives: English Prison Biography, 1830-1914 . London: Methuen.
26.
Ribeiro A. ( 1986) Dress and Morality. London: B.T. Batsford.
27.
Rosenberg CE ( 1992) Florence Nightingale on contagion: the hospital as moral universe. In: Explaining Epidemics and Other Studies in the History of Medicine. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 90-109.
28.
Ross R. ( 2008) Clothing: A Global History. Cambridge : Polity Press.
29.
Scull A. ( 1979) Museums of Madness: The Social Organization of Insanity in Nineteenth-Century England. London: Allen Lane.
30.
Scull A. ( 1993) The Most Solitary of Afflictions: Madness and Society in Britain, 1700-1900. New Haven, CT, and London: Yale University Press.
31.
Shepherd A. and Wright D. ( 2002) Madness, suicide and the Victorian asylum: attempted self- murder in the age of non-restraint. Medical History46 (2): 175-196.
32.
Showalter E. ( 1987) The Female Malady: Women, Madness and English Culture 1830-1980. London: Virago.
33.
Smith LD ( 1999a) ‘Cure, Comfort and Safe Custody’: Public Lunatic Asylums in Early Nineteenth- Century England. London: Leicester University Press.
34.
Smith LD ( 1999b) The brightest ornament of our native county: the Staffordshire General Lunatic Asylum, 1818-1855. Staffordshire Studies11: 82-96.
35.
Smith L.[D] (2007) Lunatic Hospitals in Georgian England, 1750-1830 . London: Routledge.
36.
Suzuki A. ( 1995) The politics and ideology of non-restraint: the case of the Hanwell Asylum. Medical History39 (1): 1-17.
37.
Suzuki A. ( 2006) Madness at Home: The Psychiatrist, the Patient and the Family in England, 1820-1860. London: University of California Press.
38.
Tomes N. ( 1988) The great restraint controversy: a comparative perspective on Anglo-American psychiatry in the nineteenth century. In Bynum WF, Porter R and Shepherd M (eds) The Anatomy of Madness: Essays in the History of Psychiatry. Vol. III: the Asylum and its Psychiatry. London: Routledge, 190-226.
39.
Tuke S. ( 1813) Description of the Retreat, an Institution near York, for Insane Persons of the Society of Friends. York: W. Alexander.
40.
Weiner D. ( 1994) "Le geste de Pinel": The History of the Psychiatric Myth . In: Micale MS and Porter R (eds), Discovering the History of Psychiatry. Oxford and New York : Oxford University Press, 232-247.
41.
Woodward J. ( 1974) To Do the Sick No Harm: A Study of the British Voluntary Hospital System to 1875. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul.
