Restricted accessResearch articleFirst published online 1996-6
Aesthetics: A Comparison of the State of the Art Outside and Inside the Field of Textiles and Clothing. Part Three: Appreciation Process,Appreciator and Summary Comparisons
This is the last of three papers in which we review aesthetics literature published from 1970 to 1992, found outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing. In this paper we review Appreciation Process and Appreciator literature, including research that explores internal processes that take place during the aesthetic response to a preexisting object or event. Also included is literature that focuses upon the psychological and socio-cultural factors influencing the person involved in the appreciation process, in terms of his or her aesthetic ability, and preference, evaluation, and selection of aesthetic objects. For this paper, the literature external to the field of textiles and clothing came primarily from books and journal articles of psychology. Other major contributors were the fields of anthropology, art education, and marketing. We limited our review of textiles and clothing literature to articles found in Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Dress, Home Economics Research Journal, Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics, and Textiles Research Journal. Broad comparisons are made between aesthetics literature outside and inside the field of textiles and clothing.
Alexander, B., & Marks, L.E. (1983). Aesthetic preference and resemblance of viewer's personality to paintings. Bulletin of the Psychonomic Society , 21(5), 384-386.
2.
Amabile, T. (1983). Social psychology of creativity. New York: Springer-Verlag.
3.
Anand, P., Holbrook, M.B., & Stephens, D. (1988). The formation of affective judgments: the cognitive-affective model versus the independence hypothesis. Journal of Consumer Research, 15, 386-391.
4.
Antes, J.R., & Kristjanson, A.F. (1991). Discriminating artists from nonartists by their eye-fixation patterns. Perceptual and Motor Skills, 73, 893-894.
5.
Apter, M.J. (1984). Reversal theory, cognitive synergy and the arts . In W. R. Crozier & A. J. Chapman (Eds.), Cognitive processes in the perception of art (pp. 411-426). New York: Elsevier Science.
6.
Amheim, R. (1972). The Gestalt theory of expression. In R. Amheim (Ed.), Toward a psychology of art: Collected essays (pp. 51-73). Berkeley: University of California Press.
7.
Baer, M. (1979). Visual recall of dress design determined by perceptual style. Home Economics Research Journal, 7, 292-303.
8.
Baiggio, M.K., & Supplee, K.A. (1983). Dimensions of aesthetic perception. Journal of Psychology, 114, 29-35.
9.
Banich, M.T., Heller, W., & Levy, J. (1989). Aesthetic preference and picture asymmetries. Cortex, 25, 187-195.
10.
Behery, H.M. (1986). Comparison of fabric hand assessment in the United States and Japan. Textile Research Journal, 56, 227-240.
11.
Belk, R.W. (1987). Symbolic consumption of art and culture. In D. Shaw, W. Hendon, & C. R. Waits (Eds.), Artist and cultural consumers (pp. 168-174). Akron, OH: Association for Cultural Economics.
12.
Bell-Villada, G.H. (1986). The idea of art for art's sake: Intellectual origins, social conditions, and poetic doctrine. Science and Society , L(4), 415-439.
13.
Berleant, A. (1970). Aesthetics and the contemporary arts. Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 29(2), 155-168.
14.
Berlyne, D.E. (1971). Aesthetics and psychobiology. New York: Appleton-Century-Crofts.
15.
Berlyne, D.E. (1974). Studies in the new experimental aesthetics: Steps toward an objective psychology of aesthetic appreciation. Washington, DC: Hemisphere.
16.
Biaggio, M.K., & Supplee, K.A. (1983). Dimensions of aesthetic perception. The Journal of Psychology, 114, 29-35.
17.
Broudy, H.S. (1991). The arts as basic education. In R. A. Smith & A. Simpson (Eds.), Aesthetics and arts education (pp. 125-133). Chicago: University of Illinois Press.
18.
Bunkse, E.V. (1981). Humboldt and an aesthetic tradition in geography . The Geographical Review, 71 (2); 127-146.
19.
Cassill, N.L., & Drake, M.F. (1987). Apparel selection criteria related to female consumers' lifestyle. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(1), 20-28.
20.
Child, I.L. (1981). Bases of transcultural agreement in response to art. In H. I. Day (Ed.), Advances in intrinsic motivation and aesthetics. New York : Plenum Press.
21.
Coates, D. (1979). Understanding aesthetics: From old shoes to a teacup. Industrial Design, 26, 32-35.
22.
Coomaraswamy, A. (1983). That beauty is a state. Revision , 6(1), 53-56.
23.
Coren, S., Porac, C., & Ward, L.M. (1979). Sensation and Perception. New York: Academic.
24.
Crane, L.L., & Hicks, R.A. (1989). Preference for the color red and activation: A test of Thayer's theory. Psychological Reports, 64, 947-950.
25.
Crowley, D.J. (1971). An African aesthetic. In C. F. Jopling (Ed.), Art and aesthetics in primitive societies (pp. 315-327). New York: E. P. Dutton.
26.
Crowther, P. (1987). Aesthetic aspects. British Journal of Aesthetics, 27(1), 9-19.
27.
Crozier, W.R., & Chapman, A. (1981). Aesthetic preferences: Prestige and social class . In D. O'Hare (Ed.), Psychology and the artsSussex: Harvester.
28.
Cupchik, G.C., & Gebotys, R.J. (1988). The search for meaning in art: Interpretive styles and judgments of quality. Visual Arts Research, 14(2), 38-50.
29.
Cupchik, G.C., & Gebotys, R.J. (1990). Interest and pleasure as dimensions of aesthetic response. Empirical Studies of the Arts, 8(1), 1-14.
30.
Cupchik, G.C., & Heinrichs, R.W. (1981). Toward an integrated theory of aesthetic perception in the visual arts. In H. I. Day (Ed.), Advances in intrinsic motivation and aesthetics (pp. 463-485). New York: Plenum.
31.
Day, H. I. (Ed.). (1981). Advances in intrinsic motivation and aesthetics. New York : Plenum.
32.
DeLong, M.R. (1977). Clothing and aesthetics: Perception of form. Home Economics Research Journal, 5, 214-224.
33.
DeLong, M.R., & Cerny, C. (1983-84). Cognitive strategies to describe warm and cool appearances. Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 2(1), 19-23.
34.
DeLong, M.R., & Hillestad, R. (1990). Aesthetics of Apparel: Subject, form and content . In P. E. Horridge (Ed.), Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing, (p. 33). Denver, Colorado: Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing.
35.
DeLong, M.R., & Larntz, K. (1980). Measuring visual response to clothing. Home Economics Research Journal, 8, 281-293.
36.
DeLong, M.R., & Minshall, B.C. (1988). Categorization of forms of dress. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(4), 13-19.
37.
DeLong, M.R., Minshall, B., & Larntz, K. (1986). Use of schema for evaluating consumer response to an apparel product. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 5(1), 17-26.
38.
DeLong, M.R., Salusso-Deonier, C., & Larntz, K. (1983). Use of perceptions of female dress as an indicator of role definition. Home Economics Research Journal, 11, 327-336.
39.
Deutsch, D. (1984). Musical space. In W. R. Crozier & A. J. Chapman (Eds.), Cognitive processes in the perception of art (pp. 253-287). New York: Elsevier Science.
40.
Deutsch, E. (1975). Studies in comparative aesthetics. Monograph of the Society for Asian and Comparative Philosophy, 2.
41.
Dissanayake, E. (1988). What is art for?Seattle: University of Washington Press.
42.
Douty, H.I., & Brannon, E.L. (1984). Figure attractiveness: Male and female preferences for female figures. Home Economics Research Journal, 13, 123-137.
43.
Eckman, M., Damhorst, M.L., & Kadolph, S.J. (1990). Toward a model of the in-store purchase decision process: Consumer use of criteria for evaluating women's apparel. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 8(2), 13-22.
44.
Eysenck, H.J. (1981a). Aesthetic preferences and individual differences . In D. O'Hare (Ed), Psychology and the art, (pp. 79-101). Sussex: Harvester .
45.
Eysenck, H.J. (1981b). Arousal, intrinsic motivation, and personality . In H. I. Day (Ed.), Advances in intrinsic motivation and aestheticsNew York : Plenum.
46.
Farrell-Beck, J.A., & Petsch, J.V. (1984). Colors compared: Matisse and Picasso with Chanel and Vionnet. Home Economics Research Journal, 13, 206-214.
47.
Fiore, A.M. (1993). Multisensory integration of visual, tactile, and olfactory aesthetic cues of appearance. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 11(2),45-52.
48.
Freeman, C.M., Kaiser, S.B., & Chandler, J.L. (1987). Perceptions of functional clothing by able-bodied people: The other side. Journal of Consumer Studies and Home Economics, 11, 345-358.
49.
Gardner, H. (1977). Senses, symbols, operations: An organization of artistry. In D. Perkins & B. Leondar (Eds.), The arts and cognition (pp. 88-117). Baltimore: The John Hopkins University Press.
50.
Gardner, H. (1981). Children's perceptions of works of art: A developmental portrait. In D. O' Hare (Eds.), Psychology and the arts (pp. 123-147). Sussex: Harvester.
51.
Gardner, H. (1983). Frames of mind: The theory of multiple intelligences . New York: Basic Books.
52.
Gibson, J.J. (1979). The ecological approach to visual perception. Boston: Houtton Mifflin.
53.
Gombrich, E.H. (1979). Sense of order. Ithaca: Cornell University Press.
54.
Gordon, I. (1981). Left and right in art. In D. O'Hare (Ed.), Psychology and the arts (pp. 211-241). Sussex: Harvester.
55.
Gregory, R.L. (1988). Ambiguities of sense and nonsense. Perception, 17(4), 423-428.
56.
Gwosdow, A.R., Stevens, J.C., Berlund, L.G., & Stolwijk, J.A.J. (1986). Skin friction and fabric sensations in neutral and warm environments. Textile Research Journal, 56, 574-580.
57.
Hannush, M.J. (1984). Skinner, Piaget, and the existential-phenomenologist: Their radical differences in relation to poetic, artistic, or aesthetic experience and behavior. Journal of Phenomenological Psychology, 19(1), 93-102.
58.
Hardin, K.L. (1988). Aesthetics and the cultural whole: A study of Kono dance occasions. Empirical Studies of the Arts, 6(1), 35-57.
59.
Havlena, W.J., & Holbrook, M.B. (1986). The varieties of consumption experience: Comparing two typologies of emotion in consumer behavior. Journal of Consumer Research, 13, 394-404.
60.
Hirschman, E.C. (1983). On the acquisition of aesthetic, escapist, and agentic experiences. Empirical Studies of the Arts, 1(2), 157-171.
61.
Hirschman, E.C., & Holbrook, M.B. (1982). Hedonic consumption: Emerging concepts, methods, and propositions. Journal of Marketing,46, 92-101.
62.
Hoege, H. (1984). The emotional impact on aesthetic judgments: An experimental investigation of a time-honored hypothesis. Visual Arts Research,10(2), 37-48.
63.
Holbrook, M.B. (1986). Emotion in the consumption experience: Toward a new model of the human consumer. In R. A. Peterson, W. D. Hoyer, & W. R. Wilson (Eds.), The role of affect in consumer behavior (pp. 17-52). Lexington, Massachusetts: DC Heath.
64.
Holbrook, M.B. (1987). The study of signs in consumer esthetics: An egocentric review. In J. Umiker-Sebeok (Ed.), Marketing and semiotics: New directions in the study of signs for sale (pp. 73-124). New York: Mouton de Gruyter.
65.
Holbrook, M.B., & Bertges, S.A. (1981). Perceptual veridicality in esthetic communication . Communication Research, 8(4), 387-424.
66.
Holbrook, M.B., & Hirschman, E.C. (1982). The experimental aspects of consumption: Consumer fantasies, feelings, and fun. Journal of Consumer Research, 9, 132-140.
67.
Holbrook, M.B., Greenleaf, E.A., & Schindler, R.M. (1986). A dynamic spatial analysis of changes in aesthetic responses. Empirical Studies of The Arts, 4(1),47-61.
68.
Howes, D., & Lalonde, M. (1991). The history of sensibilities: The standard of taste in mid-eighteenth century England and the circulation of smells in post-revolutionary France. Dialectical Anthropology, 16, 125-135.
69.
Jhanji, R. (1989). The sensuous in art. New Delhi , India: Spantechs.
Kaplan, B.J. (1982). Considerations in the formulation of a theory of aesthetic development. Journal of Aesthetic Education, 16(4), 93-96.
72.
Kloepfer, R. (1987). Sympraxis: Semiotics, aesthetics, and consumer participation. In J. Umiker-Sebeok (Ed.), Marketing and semiotics: New directions in the study of signs for sale (pp. 123-150). New York: Mouton de Gruyter.
73.
Koestler, A. (1981). The three domains of creativity. In D. Dutton & M. Krausz (Eds.), The concept of creativity in science and art (pp. 1-17). Boston: Martinus Nijhoff.
Krausz, R. (1990). The blink of an eye. In D. Carroll (Ed.), The state of "theory": History, art, and critical discourse (pp. 127-174). New York: Columbia University Press.
76.
Kreitler, H., & Kreitler, S. (1972). Psychology of the arts. Durham : Drake University Press.
77.
Kwon, Y.H. (1979). Changing function of symbolism in design of Korean silk textiles. Home Economics Research Journal, 8, 16-26.
78.
Kwon, Y.H. (1987). Daily clothing selection: Interrelationships among motivating factors. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal , 5(2), 21-27.
79.
Lasher, M.D., Carroll, J.M., & Bever, T.G. (1983). The cognitive basis of aesthetic experience. Leonardo, 16(3), 196-199.
80.
Lee, D. ( 1987). Belief systems and art preferences. In D. Shaw, W. Hendon, & C. R. Waits (Eds.), Artist and cultural consumers (pp. 287-290). Association for Cultural Economics .
81.
Lennon, S.J., Fairhurst, A. & Peatross, F. (1991). Apparel and furniture attribute importance as a function of self-monitoring. Home Economics Research Journal , 19, 292-302.
82.
Lindauer, M.A. (1981). Aesthetic experience: A neglected topic in the psychology of the arts. In D. O'Hare (Ed.), Psychology and the arts (pp. 62-75). Sussex: Harvester.
83.
Littrell, M.A., & Evers, S.J. (1985). Liturgical vestments and the priest role. Home Economics Research Journal, 14, 152-162.
84.
Littrell, M.A. (1980). Home economists as cross-cultural researchers: A field study of Ghanaian clothing selection. Home Economics Research Journal, 8, 307-317.
85.
Lubner-Rupert, J.A., & Winakor, G. (1985). Male and female style preference and perceived fashion risk. Home Economics Research Journal, 13, 256-266.
86.
Machotka, P. (1981). Aesthetic choice and coping with conflict. In D. O' Hare (Ed.), Psychology and the arts (pp. 102-122). Sussex: Harvester
87.
Madsen, K.B. (1981). Berlyne's theory: A metascientific study. In H.I. Day (Ed.), Advances in intrinsic motivation and aesthetics (pp. 19-38). New York: Plenum.
88.
Marks, L.E. (1984). Synesthesia and the arts. In W. R. Crozier & A. J. Chapman (Eds.), Cognitive processes in the perception of art (pp. 427-447). New York: Elsevier Science .
89.
Martindale, C., Moore, K., & West, A. (1988). Relationship of preference judgments to typicality, novelty, and mere exposure. Empirical Studies of the Arts , 6(1), 79-96.
90.
McWhinnie, H.J. (1971). A review of selected aspects of empirical aesthetics III. Journal of Aesthetic Education, 5(4), 115-126.
91.
Messmer, M.W. (1985). Making sense of/with post-modernism. Soundings, 68(3), 404-426.
92.
Minshall, B., Winakor, G., & Swinney, J.L. (1982). Fashion preferences of males and females, risks perceived, and temporal quality of styles. Home Economics Research Journal, 10, 369-379.
93.
Mitias, M.H. (1982). What makes an experience aesthetic?Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 41, 157-169.
94.
Moore, C.L., & Yamamoto, K. (1988). Beyond words:. Movement observation and analysis . New York: Gordon & Breach .
95.
Morganosky, M.A. (1987). Aesthetic, function, and fashion consumer values: Relationships to other values and demographics. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(1), 15-19.
96.
Morganosky, M.A., & Postlewait, D.S. (1989). Consumers' evaluation of apparel form, expression, and aesthetic quality. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 7(2), 11-15.
97.
Morreall, J.S. (1977). Aldrich and aesthetic perception. British Journal of Aesthetics, 17(3), 257-280.
98.
Nelson, J.G., Pelech, M.T., & Foster, S.F. (1984). Color preference and stimulation seeking. Perceptual and Motor Skills, 59, 913-914.
99.
Pan, N., Yen, K.C., Zhao, S.J., & Yang, S.R. (1988). A new approach to the objective evaluation of fabric handle from mechanical properties. Part I: Objective measures for total handle. Textile Research Journal, 58, 438-444.
100.
Purcell, A.T. (1984). The aesthetic experience and mundane reality. In W. R. Crozier & A. J. Chapman (Eds.), Cognitive processes in the perception of art (pp. 168-174). New York: Elsevier Science.
101.
Radeloff, D.J. (1991). Psychological types, color attributes, and color preferences of clothing, textiles, and design students. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 9(3), 59-67.
102.
Reeder, E.N., & Drake, M.F. (1980). Clothing preferences of male athletes: Actual and perceived. Home Economics Research Journal, 8, 339-343.
103.
Sailor, P.J. (1971). Perception of line in clothing. Perceptual Motor Skills,33, 987-990.
104.
Schneider, H.K. (1971). The interpretation of Pakot visual art. In C. F. Jopling (Ed.), Art and aesthetics in primitive societies (pp. 55-63). New York: E. P. Dutton.
105.
Schreffler, R. (1991, May). Artistic License. In Chilton's Automotive Industries (p. 18). Radner, Pa: Chilton's Co..
106.
Schutz, H.G., & Phillips, B.A. (1976). Consumer perceptions of textiles. Home Economics Research Journal, 5,2-14.
107.
Sclafani, A. (1991). The hedonics of sugar and starch. In R. C. Bolles (Ed.), Hedonics of taste (pp. 59-87). Hillsdale, New Jersey: Lawrence Erlbaum.
108.
Sieber, R. (1971). The aesthetics of traditional African art. In C. F. Jopling (Ed.), Art and aesthetics in primitive societies (pp. 127-131). New York: E. P. Dutton.
109.
Smith, R. A., & Simpson, A. (Eds.). (1991). Aesthetics and arts education . Urbana and Chicago: University of Illinois Press.
110.
Solomon, M.R., Pruitt, D.J., & Insko, C.A. (1984). Taste versus fashion: The inferred objectivity of aesthetic judgments. Empirical Studies of the Arts, 2(2), 113-125.
111.
Spitz, E.H. (1982). The past of illusion: A contribution of child psychoanalysis to the understanding of aesthetic experience. Journal of Aesthetic Education, 16(4), 59-69.
112.
Strube, M.J., Turner, C.W., Patrick, S., & Perillo, R. (1983). Type A and type B attentional responses to aesthetic stimuli: Effects on mood and performance. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 45(6), 1369-1379.
113.
Thompson, J.A.A., & Davis, L.L. (1988). Furniture design decision-making constructs. Home Economics Research Journal, 16, 279-290.
114.
Thompson, R.F. (1971). Aesthetics in traditional Africa. In C. F. Jopling (Ed.), Art and aesthetics in primitive society (pp. 374-381). New York: E. P. Dutton.
115.
Webster's third new international dictionary of the English language [Unabridged] (1981). Springfield, MA: Webster.
116.
Whisney, A.J., Winakor, G., & Wolins, L. (1979). Fashion preference: Drawings versus photographs . Home Economics Research Journal, 8, 138-150.
117.
Williams, J., Arbaugh, J., & Rucker, M. (1980). Clothing color preferences of adolescent females . Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 9(1), 57-63.
118.
Winakor, G., Canton, B., & Wolins, L. (1980). Perceived fashion risk and self-esteem of males and females. Home Economics Research Journal, 9, 45-56.
119.
Wingert, P.S. (1971). Anatomical interpretations in African masks. In C. F. Jopling (Ed.), Art and aesthetics in primitive society (pp. 35-44). New York: E. P. Dutton.
120.
Zusne, L. (1986). Cognitions in consonance. Perceptual and Motor Skills, 62(2), 531-539.
