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Abstract

Apparel manufacturing in the 19th-century United States has received attention from few researchers (Kahn, 1989; Kidwell & Christman, 1974). To understand better the technical capacities of early clothing factories, I examined 210 selected patents for sewing machines, attachments, and stitches dated between 1849 and 1899. The claimed capabilities of these innovations were compared to techniques perceptible on 149 garments manufactured before 1901. Application of innovative devices seemed to be related to new uses for fabrics, such as knits for underwear; demand for large volumes of clothing, such as military uniforms; and the desire to expedite sewing handmade-looking details. Fluctuating fashions, consumer expectations, and the small size of many ready-to-wear firms may have delayed adoption of some innovations.

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Use of Patented Sewing Devices in a Sample of Manufactured Garments Dated ca. 1860-1900

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