No Longer a “Frowsy Drudge” Women’s Wardrobe Management: 1880-1930

Abstract

The transformation from custom to factory-produced clothing occurred in uneven stages. To acquire clothing, women balanced budget constraints against sewing ability, available time, and fashion issues. They were also usually actively involved in at least some aspect of their own clothing production and often devised complex arrangements to clothe themselves. In this paper, I focus on women’s decision-making in a period of rapidly changing styles, changing markets, and new employment patterns. Analysis of family budget studies, women’s magazines and advice literature, and early home economics studies revealed that although income was important, lifestyle, sewing ability, and a desire to be up-to-date with the latest styles figured prominently. Rapid style changes and increased availability of ready-made clothing changed the standards by which all clothing was judged. Home sewn products, difficult to fit and time-consuming to make, lost prestige when compared to the style and finish of ready-made. Changes permanently altered women’s roles as both producers and consumers of clothing.