The Style Characteristics of the Hwalot,with a Focus on One Robe from the Collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts

Abstract

Since the early Choson dynasty (1392-1910 C.E.), the hwalot has been culturally significant in Korea as a female wedding garment. We examine hwalot using costume history literature from Korean, English, and Japanese sources, and hwalot artifacts from Korean and Hawaiian locations. Hwalot evolved from Chinese costume styles and exhibited stylistic differences from other Korean hanbok. The visual comparison of the hwalot suggest that primary design elements such as silhouette, color, and motifs have symbolic meaning that has changed little since the Choson dynasty. The visual comparison also suggested that secondary design elements such as size, type, and placement of motifs may differ between hwalot without altering the cultural significance of this robe as a wedding garment. We suggest that traditional costume does not remain static but allows limited expression and individuality by the designer or the wearer through changes in applied surface design. Although changes may occur, they are controlled within shared cultural interpretation that do not dilute or distort the recognition and meaning of the garment, confirming the deep and significant role that the garment serves.