Beach research in the 1990s

Aagaard, T. and Greenwood, B. 1994: Suspended sediment transport and the role of infragravity waves in a barred surf zone. Marine Geology 118, 23-48.

Bagnold, R.A. 1963: Mechanics of marine sedimentation. In Hill, M.V. , editor, The sea. Volume 3, New York, Wiley , 507-28.

— 1966: An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics. US Geological Survey Professional Paper 422-I. Washington, DC: US Government Printing Office.

Bailard, J.A. 1981: An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 86, 10938-54.

Baird, A.J. and Horn, D.P. 1996: Monitoring and modelling groundwater behaviour in sandy beaches. Journal of Coastal Research 12, 630-40.

Baird, A.J. , Mason, T.E. and Horn, D.P. 1996: Mechanisms of beach groundwater and swash interaction . In Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 4120-330.

Bakker, W.T. , van Kesteren, W.G.M. and Yu, Z.H. 1988: Grain-grain interactions in oscillating sheet flow . In Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 718-31.

Baldock, T.E. , Holmes, P. and Horn, D.P. in press: Low frequency swash motion induced by wave grouping. Coastal Engineering.

Battjes, J.A. 1988: Surf-zone dynamics. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 20, 257-93.

Beach, R.A. and Sternberg, R.W. 1988: Suspended sediment transport in the surf zone: response to cross-shore infragravity motion. Marine Geology 80, 61-79.

— 1991: Infragravity driven suspended sediment transport in the swash, inner and outer surf zone. In Kraus, N.C. , Gingerich, K.J. and Kriebel, D.L. , editors, Coastal sediments '91, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 114-28.

— 1992: Suspended sediment transport in the surf zone: response to incident wave and longshore current interaction. Marine Geology 108, 275-94.

Beach, R.A. , Sternberg, R.W. and Johnson, R. 1992: A fiber optic sensor for monitoring suspended sediment . Marine Geology 103, 513-20.

Birkemeier, W.A. , editor, 1992: SandyDuck: a field study of sediment and bathymetric response to fluid forcing . Web address: http://www.frf.usace.army.mil/duck94/motive.html

Bowen, A.J. and Huntley, D.A. 1984: Waves, long waves and nearshore morphology. Marine Geology 60, 1-13.

Bradshaw, M.P. 1980: Topographic control of runup variability. In Proceedings of the 17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering , 1091-105.

— 1982: Bores and swash on natural beaches. Coastal Studies Unit Technical Report 82/4. Sydney: University of Sydney.

Byrnes, M.R. and Hiland, M.W. 1995: Large-scale sediment transport patterns on the continental shelf and influence on shoreline response: St Andrew Sound, Georgia, to Nassau Sound, Florida. Marine Geology 126, 19-43.

Capobianco, M. , de Vriend, H.J. , Nicholls, R.J. and Stive, M.J.F. 1993: Behavior-oriented models applied to long term profile evolution. In List J. , editor, Abstract volume. Large scale coastal behavior '93. US Geological Survey Open File Report 93-381, Washington DC : US Government Printing Office, 21-24.

Carter, R.W.G. 1988: Coastal environments: an introduction to the physical, ecological and cultural systems of coastlines. London: Academic Press.

Cox, D.T. , Kobayashi, N. and Kreibel, D.L. 1994: Numerical model, verification using SUPER-TANK data in surf and swash zones. In Arcilla, A.S. , Stive, M.C.F. and Kraus, N.C. , editors, Coastal dynamics '94 , New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 248-62.

Cox, D.T. , Kobayashi, N. and Mase, H. 1991: Effects of fluid accelerations on sediment transport in surf zones. In Kraus, N.C. , Gingerich, K.J. and Kriebel, D.L. , editors, Coastal sediments '91, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 447-61.

Cox, D.T. , Kobayashi, N. and Wurjanto, A. 1992: Irregular wave transformation processes in surf and swash zones. In Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 156-69.

Davidson, M.A. , Russell, P.E. , Huntley, D.A. and Hardisty, J. 1993: Tidal asymmetry in suspended sand transport on a macrotidal intermediate beach. Marine Geology 110, 333-53.

de Vriend, H.J. 1991: G6 coastal morhodynamics. In Kraus, N.C. , Gingerich, K.J. and Kriebel, D.L. , editors, Coastal sediments '91, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 356-70.

de Vriend, H.J. , Capobianco, M. , Chesher, T. , de Swart, H.E. , Latteux, B. and Stive, M.J.F. 1993a: Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology: a review. Coastal Engineering 21, 225-69.

de Vriend, H.B. , Zyserman, J. , Nicholson, J. , Roelvink, J.A. , Péchon, P. and Southgate, H.N. 1993b: Medium-term 2DH coastal area modelling. Coastal Engineering 21, 193-224.

Downing, J.P. 1984: Suspended sand transport on a dissipative beach . In Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1765-81.

Downing, J.P. , Stemberg, R.W. and Lister, C.R.B. 1981: New instrumentation for the investigation of sediment suspension processes in the shallow marine environment. Marine Geology 42, 19-34.

Duncan, J.R. 1964: The effects of water table and tidal cycle on swash-backwash sediment distribution and beach profile development. Marine Geology 2, 186-97.

Eliot, I.G. and Clarke, D.J. 1988: Semi-diurnal variation in beachface aggradation and degradation . Marine Geology 79, 1-22.

Foote, Y.L.M. and Huntley, D.A. 1994: Velocity moments on a macro-tidal intermediate beach. In Arcilla, A.S. , Stive, M.C.F. and Kraus, N.C. , editors, Coastal dynamics '94, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 794-808.

Foote, Y. , Huntley, D. , Davidson, M. , Russell, P. , Hardisty, J. and Cramp, A. 1992: Incident wave groups and long waves in the nearshore zone . In Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 974-89.

Forbes, D.L. and Taylor, R.B. 1994: Ice in the shore zone and the geomorphology of cold coasts . Progress in Physical Geography 18, 57-89.

Fredsøe, J. 1993: Modelling of non-cohesive sediment transport processes in the marine environment. Coastal Engineering 21, 71-103.

Freeman, J.C. and LeMehauté, B. 1964: Wave breaking on a beach and surges on a dry bed. Journal of the Hydraulics Division, ASCE HY2, 187-216.

Gourlay, M.R. 1992: Wave set-up, wave run-up and beach water table; interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics. Coastal Engineering 17, 93-144.

Grant, U.S. 1946: Effects of groundwater table on beach erosion. Geological Society of America Bulletin 57, 1952 (abstract).

— 1948: Influence of the water table on beach aggradation and degradation. Journal of Marine Research 7, 655-60.

Greenwood, B. and Osbome, P.D. 1991: Equilibrium slopes and cross-shore velocity asymmetrics in a storm-dominated, barred nearshore system. Marine Geology 96, 211-35.

Greenwood, B. , Osbome, P.D. , Bowen, A.J. , Hazen, D.G. and Hay, A.E. 1991: Nearshore sediment flux and bottom boundary dynamics. The Canadian Coastal Sediment Transport Programme C-COAST. In Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering , 2227-40.

Guza, R.T. and Thornton, E.B. 1982: Swash oscillations on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 87 (C1), 483-91.

— 1985: Observations of surf beat. Journal of Geophysical Research 90, 3162-72.

Guza, R.T. , Thornton, E.B. and Holman, R.A. 1984: Swash on steep and shallow beaches. In Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering , 708-23.

Hamm, L. , Madsen, P. and Peregrine, D.H. 1993: Wave transformation in the nearshore zone: a review . Coastal Engineering 21, 5-39.

Hanslow, D. and Nielsen, P. 1993: Shoreline set-up on natural beaches. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 15, 1-10.

Hardisty, J. , Collier, J. and Hamilton, D. 1984: A calibration of the Bagnold beach equation. Marine Geology 61, 95-101.

Hardisty, J. , Davidson, M.A. , Russell, P.E. , Huntley, D.A. and Hoad, J. 1993: Numerical experiments with gravity and infragravity waves on a macrotidal beach profile. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 15, 215-29.

Hay, A.E. and Sheng, J. 1992: Vertical profiles of suspended sand concentration and size from multifrequency acoustic backscatter. Journal of Geophysical Research 97(C10), 15661-77.

Hegge, B.J. and Masselink, G. 1991: Groundwater-table responses to wave run-up: an experimental study from Western Australia. Journal of Coastal Research 7, 623-34.

— 1996: Spectral analysis of geomorphic time series: auto-spectrum . Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 21, 1021-40.

Hibberd, S. and Peregrine, D.H. 1979: Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 95, 323-45.

Holland, K.T. , Raubenheimer, B. , Guza, R.T. and Holman, R.A. 1995: Runup kinematics on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 100(C3), 4985-93.

Holman, R.A. 1981: Infragravity energy in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research 86(C7), 6442-50.

Holman, R.A. and Guza, R.T. 1984: Measuring run-up on a natural beach. Coastal Engineering 8, 129-40.

Holman, R.A. and Sallenger, A.H. 1985: Setup and swash on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 90, 945-53.

Holmes, P. , Baldock, T.E. , Chan, R.T.C. and Neshai, M.A.L. 1996: Beach evolution under random waves. In Proceedings of the 25th International conference on Coastal Engineering , 3006-19.

Horn, D.P. 1993: Sediment dynamics on a macrotidal beach. Journal of Coastal Research 9, 189-208.

Horn, D.P. and Mason, T. 1994: Swash zone sediment transport modes. Marine Geology 120, 309-25.

Hughes, M.G. 1992: Application of a non-linear shallow water theory to swash following bore collapse on a sandy beach. Journal of Coastal Research 8, 562-78.

- 1995: Friction factors for wave uprush. Journal of Coastal Research 11, 1089-98.

Huntley, D.A. 1976: Long-period waves on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 81, 6441-49.

Huntley, D.A. , Davison, M.A. , Russell, P.E. , Foote, Y. and Hardisty, J. 1993: Long waves and sediment movement on beaches: recent observations and implications for modelling. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 15, 215-29.

Huntley, D.A. , Guza, R.T. and Bowen, A.J. 1997: A universal form for shoreline run-up spectra? Journal of Geophysical Research 82, 2577-81.

Huntley, D.A. and Hanes, D.M. 1987: Direct measurements of suspended sediment transport . In Kraus, N.C. , editor, Coastal sediments '87, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 723-37.

Jago, C.F. and Hardisty, J. 1984: Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach , Pendine Sands, SW Wales, Marine Geology 60, 123-54.

Kang, H.Y. , Aseervatham, A.M. and Nielsen, P. 1994: Field measurements of wave runup and the beach water table . Research Report CE148. Department of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland.

Keller, H.B. , Levine, D.A. and Witham, G.B. 1960: Motion of a bore over a sloping beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 7, 302-16.

Kirkgoz, M.S. 1981: A theoretical study of plunging breakers and their run-up . Coastal Engineering 5, 353-70.

Kobayashi, N. 1988: Review of wave transformation and cross-shore sediment transport processes in surf zones. Journal of Coastal Research 4, 435-45.

Kobayashi, N. , Cox, D.T. and Wurjanto, A. 1990: Irregular wave reflection and run-up on rough impermeable slopes. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 116, 708-28.

— 1991: Permeability effects on irregular wave runup and reflection . Journal of Coastal Research 7, 127-36.

Kobayashi, N. , DeSilva, G.S. and Watson, K.D. 1989: Wave transformation and swash oscillation on gentle and steep slopes. Journal of Geophysical Research 94(C1), 951-66.

Kobayashi, N. and Karjadi, E.A. 1994: Swash dynamics under obliquely incident waves. In Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2155-68.

— 1996: Obliquely incident irregular waves in surf and swash zone . Journal of Geophysical Research 101(C3), 6527-42.

Kobayashi, N. , Otta, A.K. and Roy, I. 1987: Wave reflection and runup on rough slopes. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 113, 282-98.

Kobayashi, N. , Strzelecki, M.S. and Wurjanto, A. 1988: Swash oscillation and resulting sediment movement . In Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1167-81.

Kobayashi, N. and Wurjanto, A. 1992a: Irregular wave set-up and run-up on beaches. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 118, 368-86.

— 1992b: Irregular wave interaction with permeable slopes. In Proceedings of the 23rd International conference on Coastal Engineering, 1299-312.

Larson, M. 1995: Model of beach profile change under random waves . Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 121, 172-81.

Larson, M. and Kraus, N.C. 1995: Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport at different spatial and temporal scales. Marine Geology 126, 111-27.

Li, L. , Barry, D.A. and Pattiaratchi, C.B. 1996: Modelling coastal groundwater response to beach dewatering. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 122, 273-80.

— 1997: Numerical modelling of tide-induced beach water table fluctuations. Coastal Engineering 30, 105-23.

List, J.H. 1991: Wave groupiness in the nearshore. Coastal Engineering 15, 475-96.

— 1992: A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat . Journal of Geophysical Research 97(C4), 5623-35.

—, editor, 1993: Large scale coastal behavior '93. US Geological Survey Open-File Report 93-381. Washington, DC: US Government Printing Office.

Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. 1962: Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with an application to surf beats. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 13, 481-504.

— 1964: Radiation stresses in water waves: a physical discussion, with applications. Deep-Sea Research 11, 259-62.

Mase, H. 1988: Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up . Coastal Engineering 12, 175-89.

— 1994: Uprush-backrush dominated and long-wave dominated swash oscillations. In Isaacson, M. and Quick, M., editors, Proceeding of the International Symposium on Waves - Physical and Numerical Modelling , Vancouver: University of British Columbia, 316-25.

Masselink, G. 1993: Simulating the effects of tides on beach morphodynamics . Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 15, 180-97.

- 1995: Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone. Continental Shelf Research 15, 1525-47.

Masselink, G. and Hegge, B. 1995: Morphodynamics of meso- and macrotidal beaches: examples from central Queensland. Marine Geology 129, 1-23.

Masselink, G. and Short, A.D. 1993: The effects of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology. Journal of Coastal Research 9, 785-900.

McBride, R.A. , Byrnes, M.R. and Hiland, M.W. 1995: Geomorphic response-type model for barrier coastlines: a regional perspective. Marine Geology 126, 143-59.

Mei, C.C. and Liu, P.L.F. 1993: Surface waves and coastal dynamics. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 25, 215-40.

Meyer, R.E. and Taylor, A.D. 1972: Run-up on beaches. In Meyer, R.E. , editor, Waves on beaches and resulting sediment transport, New York: Academic Press , 357-411.

Miller, R.L. 1968: Experimental determination of run-up of undular and fully developed bores. Journal of Geophysical Research 73, 4497-510.

Mizuguchi, M. 1984: Swash on a natural beach. In Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 678-94.

Nairn, R.B. and Southgate, H.N. 1993: Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part 2. Sediment transport and beach profile development. Coastal Engineering 19, 57-96.

Nielsen, P. 1988: Wave set-up: a field study. journal of Geophysical Research 93(C12), 15643-62.

— 1989: Wave set up and runup: an integrated approach. Coastal Engineering 13, 1-9.

— 1990: Tidal dynamics of the water table in beaches. Water Resources Research 26, 2127-34.

Nielsen, P. and Hanslow, D.J. 1991: Wave runup distributions on natural beaches. Journal of Coastal Research 7, 1139-52.

Nielsen, P. and Kang, H.Y. 1995: Ground water dynamics in beaches and coastal barriers . In Dally, W.R. and Zeidler, R.B. , editors, Coastal dynamics '95 , New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 521-32.

Nordstrom, K. 1994: Beaches and dunes of human-altered coasts. Progress in Physical Geography 18, 497-516.

Nordstrom, K.F. and Jackson, N.L. 1990: Migration of swash zone, step and microtopographic features during tidal cycles on an estuarine beach, Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA. Marine Geology 92, 147-54.

Ogston, A.S. and Sternberg, R.W. 1995: On the importance of nearbed sediment flux measurements for estimating sediment transport in the surf zone. Continental Shelf Research 15, 1515-24.

O'Hare, T.J. and Huntley, D.A. 1994: Bar formation due to wave groups and associated long waves . Marine Geology 116, 313-25.

Oltman-Shay, J. and Howd, P.A. 1993: Edge waves on nonplanar bathymetry and alongshore currents: a model and data comparison. Journal of Geophysical Research 98(C2), 2495-507.

Osborne, P.D. and Greenwood, B. 1992a: Frequency dependent cross-shore suspended sediment transport. 1. A non-barred shoreface. Marine Geology 106, 1-24.

— 1992b: Frequency dependent cross-shore suspended sediment transport. 2. A barred shoreface. Marine Geology 106, 25-51.

Packwood, A.R. and Peregrine, D.H. 1980: The propagation of solitary waves and bores over a porous bed. Coastal Engineering 3, 221-42.

Raubenheimer, B. and Guza, R.T. 1996: Observations and predictions of run-up. Journal of Geophysical Research 101(C11), 25575-87.

Raubenheimer, B. , Guza, R.T. , Elgar, S. and Kobayashi, N. 1995: Swash on a gently sloping beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 100(C5), 8751-60.

Reed, D.J. 1993: Hydrology of temperate wetlands. Progress in Physical Geography 17, 20-31. —1996 : Sea level. Progress in Physical Geography 20, 482-86.

Roelvink, J.A. and Brøker, I. 1993: Cross-shore profile models. Coastal Engineering 21, 163-91.

Roelvink, J.A. and Stive, M.J.F. 1989: Bar generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach . Journal of Geophysical Research 94, 4785-800.

Russell, P.E. 1993: Mechanisms for beach erosion under storms. Continental Shelf Research 13, 1243-65.

Russell, P. , Davidson, M. , Huntley, D.A. , Cramp, A. , Hardisty, J. and Lloyd, G. 1991: The British Beach and Nearshore Dynamics programme . In Kraus, N.C. , Gingerich, K.J. and Kriebel, D.L. , editors, Coastal sediments '91, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 371-84.

Sallenger, A.H. and Richmond, B.M. 1984: Highfrequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone. Marine Geology 60, 155-64.

Schäffer, H.A. 1993: Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups . Journal of Fluid Mechanics 247, 551-88.

Schoones, J.S. and Theron, A.K. 1995: Evaluation of ten cross-shore sediment transport oblique morphological models. Coastal Engineering 25, 1-41.

Seymour, R.J. 1986: Results of cross-shore transport experiments. Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division, ASCE. 112(WW1), 168-73.

Shen, M.C. and Meyer, R.E. 1963: Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Run-up. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 74, 685-94.

Sherman, D.J. and Bauer, B.O. 1993a: Coastal geomorphology through the looking glass . Geomorphology 7, 225-29.

— 1993b: Dynamics of beach-dune systems. Progress in Physical Geography 17, 413-47.

Shi, N.C. and Larsen, L.H. 1984: Reverse sediment transport induced by amplitude modulated waves. Marine Geology 54, 181-200.

Short, A.D. 1991: Macro-meso tidal beach morphodynamics - an overview . Journal of Coastal Research 7, 417-36.

Sonu, C.J. , Pettigrew, N. and Fredericks, R.G. 1974: Measurement of swash profile and orbital motion on the beach. In Proceedings of the Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis Conference, 621-38.

Southgate, H.N. and Nairn, R.B. 1993: Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part I. Waves and currents. Coastal Engineering 19, 27-56.

Sternberg, R.W. , Johnson, R.V. , Cacchione, D.A. and Drake, D.E. 1986: An instrument for monitoring and sampling suspended sediment in the benthic boundary layer. Marine Geology 71, 187-99.

Stemberg, R.W. , Shi, N.C. and Downing, J.P. 1989: Continuous measurements of suspended sediment. In Seymour, R.J. , editor, Nearshore sediment transport study, New York: Plenum Press, 231-57.

Stone, G.W. 1993: A tribute to Richard William (Bill) Gale Carter . Journal of Coastal Research 12, 558-63.

Strahler, A.N. 1966: Tidal cycle of changes in an equilibrium beach, Sandy Hook, New Jersey. Journal of Geology 74, 247-68.

Suhayda, J.N. 1974: Standing waves on beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research 79, 3065-71.

Symonds, G. , Huntley, D.A. and Bowen, A.J. 1982: Two-dimensional surf beat: long wave generation by a time varying breakpoint. Journal of Geophysical Research 87, 492-98.

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Thome, P.D. , Hardcastle, P.J. and Soulsby, R. 1993: Analysis of acoustic measurements of suspended sediments . Journal of Geophysical Research 98(C1), 899-910.

Thome, P.D. , Vincent, C.E. , Hardcastle, P.J. , Rehman, S. and Pearson, N. 1991: Measuring suspended sediment concentrations using acoustic backscatter devices. Marine Geology 98, 7-16.

Thornton, E.B. , Humiston, R.T. and Birkemeier, W. 1996: Bar/trough generation on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 101(C5), 12097-110.

Turner, I.L. 1993a: The total water content of sandy beaches. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 15, 11-26.

— 1993b: Water table outcropping on macro-tidal beaches: a simulation model. Marine Geology 115, 227-38.

— 1993c: Beach face permeability, the groundwater effluent zone, and intertidal profiles of macro-tidal beaches: a conceptual model. In Thomas, M. , editor, Catchments and coasts of eastern Australia. University of Sydney Monograph Series 5, Sydney: Department of Geography, University of Sydney, 88-99.

— 1995: Simulating the influence of groundwater seepage on sediment transported by the sweep of the swash zone across the intertidal profile of macrotidal beaches. Marine Geology 125, 153-74.

Turner, I.L. , Coates, B.P. and Acworth, R.I. 1997: Tides, waves and the super-elevation of ground water at the coast. Journal of Coastal Research 13, 46-60.

Turner, I.L. and Leatherman, S.P. in press: Beach dewatering as a 'soft' engineering solution to coastal erosion: a history and critical review. Journal of Coastal Research.

Turner, I.L. and Nielsen, P. in press: Rapid water-table fluctuations within the beachface: implications for swash zone sediment mobility? Coastal Engineering.

Viles, H. 1991: Coastal geomorphology. Progress in Physical Geography 15, 182-92.

Vincent, C.E. and Downing, A.J. 1994: Variability of suspended sand concentrations, transport and eddy diffusivity under non-breaking waves on the shoreface. Continental Shelf Research 14, 223-50.

Vincent, C.E. and Green, M.O. 1990: Field measurements of suspended sand concentration profiles, and of the resuspension coefficient over a rippled bed. Journal of Geophysical Research 95, 15591-601.

Vincent, C.E. , Hanes, P.D. and Bowen, A.J. 1991: Acoustic measurements of suspended sand on the shoreface and the control of concentration by bed roughness. Marine Geology 96, 1-18.

Vincent, C.E. and Osbome, P.D. 1995: Predicting suspended sand concentration profiles on a macro-tidal beach. Continental Shelf Research 15, 1497-514.

Voulgaris, G. , Mason, T. and Collins, M.B. 1996: An energetics approach for suspended sand transport on macrotidal ridge and runnel beaches. In Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 3948-61.

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Watson, G. and Peregrine, D.H. 1992: Low frequency waves in the surf zone. In Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering , 818-31.

Weisman, R.N. , Seidel, G.S. and Ogden, M.R. 1995: Effect of water-table manipulation on beach profiles . Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 12, 134-42.

Wise, R.A. , Kobayashi, N. and Wurjanto, A. 1991: Cross-shore sediment transport under irregular waves in surf zones. In Kraus, N.C. , Gingerich, K.J. and Kriebel, D.L. , editors, Coastal sediments '91, New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 658-73.

Woodroffe, C. 1993: Sea level. Progress in Physical Geography 17, 359-68.

— 1994: Sea level. Progress in Physical Geography 18, 436-45.

Woodroffe, C. and Nash, D. 1995: Sea level. Progress in Physical Geography 19, 391-98.

Wright, L.D. , Nielsen, P. , Short, A.D. and Green, M.O. 1982: Morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach. Marine Geology 50, 97-128.

Wright, L.D. and Short, A.D. 1984: Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93-118.

Yeh, H.H. , Ghazali, A. and Marton, I. 1989: Experimental study of bore run-up. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 205, 563-78.