Drawing on the model of goal-directed behavior, our study examined how buying second-hand clothing (SHC) influences desire and the conditions influencing this phenomenon. Using an experimental design targeting 398 United States and New Zealand respondents, our study found that attitude and anticipated emotions shape shopping behavior at SHC stores, and desire mediates these factors in terms of behavioral expectations. The effects were more notable for respondents concerned about others’ welfare rather than being materialistic. We provide theoretical insights into the socio-psychological mechanisms explaining how and when shopping at SHC stores shapes consumers’ desire to purchase SHC and their decisions to do so. The contingency approach in testing the moderating effects of the social material self and other-concerning values contributes to establishing boundary conditions for the main effects. Theoretical and practical implications are discussed.
AppelgrenS.BohlinA. (2015). Introduction: Circulating stuff on second-hand, vintage and retro markets. Culture Unbound, 7(1), 3–11. https://doi.org/10.3384/cu.2000.1525.15713
4.
ArgoJ.DahlD. W. (2020). Social influence in the retail context: A contemporary review of the literature. Journal of Retailing, 96(1), 25–39. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretai.2019.12.005
5.
ArmitageC. J.ConnerM. (2001). Efficacy of the theory of planned behavior: A meta-analytic review. British Journal of Social Psychology, 40(4), 471–499. https://doi.org/10.1348/014466601164939
6.
BagozziR. P. (1992). The self-regulation of attitudes, intentions, and behavior. Social Psychology Quarterly, 55(2), 178–204. https://doi.org/10.2307/2786945
7.
BagozziR. P. (2024). Behavioral science foundations for global marketing research and practice: The model of goal-directed behavior. Journal of Global Marketing, 37(4), 237–263. https://doi.org/10.1080/08911762.2024.2386970
BagozziR. P.DholakiaU. M. (2006). Antecedents and purchase consequences of customer participation in small group brand communities. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 23(1), 45–61. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijresmar.2006.01.005
10.
BagozziR. P.DholakiaU. M.BasuroyS. (2003). How effortful decisions get enacted: The motivating role of decision processses, desires and anticipated emotions. Journal of Behavioral Decision Making, 16(4), 273–295. https://doi.org/10.1002/bdm.446
BagozziR. P.WarshawP. R. (1990). Trying to consume. Journal of Consumer Research, 17(2), 127–140. https://doi.org/10.1086/208543
13.
BettigaD.LambertiL. (2018). Exploring the role of anticipated emotions in product adoption and usage. Journal of Consumer Marketing35(3), 300–316. https://doi.org/10.1108/JCM-06-2016-1860
14.
BettmanJ. R. (1979). Information processing theory of consumer choice. Addison-Wesley.
BrandãoA.da CostaA. G. (2021). Extending the theory of planned behavior to understand the effects of barriers towards sustainable fashion consumption. European Business Review, 33(5), 742–774. https://doi.org/10.1108/EBR-11-2020-0306
18.
CampbellC. (1996). The meaning of objects and the meaning of actions: A critical note on the sociology of consumption and theories of clothing. Journal of Material Culture, 1(1), 93–105. https://doi.org/10.1177/135918359600100105
19.
CarriganM.MoraesC.McEachernM. (2013). From conspicuous to considered fashion: A harm-chain approach to the responsibilities of luxury-fashion businesses. Journal of Marketing Management, 29(11/12), 1277–1307. https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2013.798675
20.
ChangH. J.WatchravesringkanK. (2018). Who are sustainability minded apparel shoppers? An investigation to the influencing factors of sustainable apparel consumption. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 46(2), 148–162. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-10-2016-0176
21.
ChiT.GerardJ.DephillipsA.LiuH.SunJ. (2019). Why US consumers buy sustainable cotton made collegiate apparel? A study of the key determinants. Sustainability, 11(11), 1–15. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11113126
CreweL.GregsonN.BrooksK. (2003). The discursivities of difference: Retro retailers and the ambiguities of ‘the alternative’. Journal of Consumer Culture, 3(1), 61–82. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540503003001931
24.
CrosnoJ. L.CuiA. P. (2018). Something old, something new: The role of partitioned pricing in consumers’ preference for new versus used products. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 35(4), 353–365. https://doi.org/10.1108/JCM-02-2017-2091
25.
DholakiaU. M.BagozziR. P.PearoL. K. (2004). A social influence model of consumer participation in network – and small group based virtual communities. International Journal of Research in Marketing, 21(3), 241–263. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijresmar.2003.12.004
26.
EaglyA. H.ChaikenS. (1993). The psychology of attitudes. Harcourt brace Jovanovich college publishers.
27.
Ek StyvénM.MarianiM. M. (2020). Understanding the intention to buy second-hand clothing on sharing economy platforms: The influence of sustainability, distance from the consumption system, and economic motivations. Psychology & Marketing, 37(5), 724–739. https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.21334
28.
EscadasM.JalaliM. S.FarhangmehrM. (2019). Why bad feelings predict good behaviors: The role of positive and negative anticipated emotions on consumer ethical decision making. Business Ethics: A European Review, 28(4), 1–17. https://doi.org/10.1111/beer.12237
29.
GeigerS. M.KellerJ. (2017). Shopping for clothes and sensitivity to the suffering of others: The role of compassion and values in sustainable fashion consumption. Environment and Behavior, 50(10), 1119–1144. https://doi.org/10.1177/0013916517732109
30.
GerbasiM. E.PrenticeD. A. (2013). The self- and other-interest inventory. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 105(3), 495–514. https://doi.org/10.1037/a0033483
31.
GodinG.KokG. (1996). The theory of planned behavior: A review of its applications to health-related behaviors. American Journal of Health Promotion, 11(2), 87–98. https://doi.org/10.4278/0890-1171-11.2.87
32.
GoldsmithR. E.FlynnL. R.ClarkR. A. (2011). Materialism and brand engagement as shopping motivations. Journal of Retailing & Consumer Services, 18(4), 278–284. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2011.02.001
33.
GopalakrishnanS.MatthewsD. (2018). Collaborative consumption: A business model analysis of second-hand fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 22(3), 354–368. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-05-2017-0049
GregsonN.MetcalfeA.CreweL. (2007). Identity, mobility, and the throwaway society. Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 25(4), 682–700. https://doi.org/10.1068/d418t
36.
GuiotD.RouxD. (2010). A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences, and implications for retailers. Journal of Retailing, 86(4), 355–371. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretai.2010.08.002
37.
GuptaN. (2011). Extent of suscpetibility to interpersonal influence and price sensitivity among Indian youth: Is there a relationship between these two constructs. Young Consumers, 12(4), 361–369. https://doi.org/10.1108/17473611111185904
38.
HansenK. T. (2000). Other people’s clothes? The international second-hand clothing trade and dress practices in Zambia. Fashion Theory, 43(3), 245–274. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270400778995499
39.
HayesA. F. (2018). Partial, conditional, and moderated moderated mediation: Quantification, inference and interpretation. Communication Monographs, 85(1), 4–40. https://doi.org/10.1080/03637751.2017.1352100
40.
HowardJ. A.ShethJ. N. (1969).The theory of buyer behavior. New York, NY: Wiley. ISBN 13: 9780471416579.
41.
IslamT.WangY.AliA.AkhtarN. (2022). Path to sustainable luxury brand consumption: Face consciousness, materialism, pride and risk of embarrassment. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 39(1), 11–28. https://doi.org/10.1108/JCM-09-2020-4099
KhareA. (2015). Influence of materialism and money attitudes on credit card use. International Journal of Business Competition and Growth, 4(1/2), 57–78. https://doi.org/10.1504/IJBCG.2015.070665
47.
KimY. (2011). Understanding green purchase: The influence of collectivism, personal values and environmental attitudes, and the moderating effect of perceived consumer effectiveness. Seoul Journal of Business, 17(1), 65–92. https://doi.org/10.35152/snusjb.2011.17.1.003
48.
KwonT. A.ChooH. J.KimY. K. (2020). Why do we feel bored with our clothing and where does it end up?International Journal of Consumer Studies, 44(1), 1–13. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12540
LiangJ.XuY. (2018). Second-hand clothing consumption: A generational cohort analysis of the Chinese market. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 42(1), 120–130. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12393
51.
LiobikieneG.LiobikasJ.BrizgaJ.JuknysR. (2020). Materialistic values impact on pro-environmental behavior: The case of transition country as Lithuania. Journal of Cleaner Production, 244, 118859. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.118859
52.
McNeillL.VenterB. (2019). Identity, self-concept and young women’s engagement with collaborative, sustainable fashion consumption models. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 43(4), 368–378. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12516
53.
NicosiaF. M. (1966). Consumer decision processes. Prentice-Hall.
54.
PassafaroP.LiviS.KosicA. (2019). Local norms, and the theory of planned behavior: Understanding the effects of spatial proximity on recycling intentions and self-reported behavior. Frontiers in Psychology, 10, 144–155. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2019.00744
55.
PeruginiM.BagozziR. P. (2001). The role of desires and anticipated emotions in goal-directed behaviors: Broadening and deepening the theory of planned behavior. British Journal of Social Psychology, 40(1), 79–98. https://doi.org/10.1348/014466601164704
56.
PeruginiM.BagozziR. P. (2004). The distinction between desires and intentions. European Journal of Social Psychology, 34(1), 69–84. https://doi.org/10.1002/ejsp.186
57.
RebouçasR.SoaresA. M. (2021). Voluntary simplicity: A literature review and research agenda. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 45(3), 303–319. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12621
58.
RouxD.GuiotD. (2008). Measuring second-hand shopping motives, antecedents and consequences. Recherche Et Applications En Marketing, 23(4), 63–91. https://doi.org/10.1177/076737010802300403
59.
SchwartzS. H. (1992). Universals in the content and structure of values: Theoretical advances and empirical tests in 20 countries. In ZannaM. (Ed.), Advances in experimental social psychology (Vol. 25, pp. 1–65). Academic Press.
60.
SeoM. J.KimM. (2019). Understanding the purchasing behavior of second-hand fashion shoppers in a non-profit thrift store context. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 12(3), 301–312. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2019.1611945
61.
SharmaE.BagozziR. P.MahmoudR. R. A. (2024). Consumer reactions to direct-to-consumer advertising: The model of goal-directed behavior, moral identity, and self-discrepency regulation. Journal of Marketing Theory and Practice, 33, 1–21. https://doi.org/10.1080/10696679.2024.2380715
62.
SirgyM. J. (1982). Self-concept in consumer behavior: A critical review. Journal of Consumer Research, 9(3), 287–300. https://doi.org/10.1086/208924
SirgyM. J. (2025). How can marketing address the big issues of our time. Journal of Macromarketing, 45(1), 02761467241310857. https://doi.org/10.1177/02761467241310857
SzmiginI.CarriganM. (2006). Exploring the dimensions of ethical consumption. In EkstromK.M.BrembeckH. (Eds). ACR European Advances. Association for Consumer Research vol. 7, pp. 608–613.
TsaiH. T.BagozziR. P. (2014). Contribution behavior in virtual communities: Cognitive, emotional, and social influences. MIS Quarterly, 38(1), 143–163. https://doi.org/10.25300/MISQ/2014/38.1.07
69.
TurunenL. L. M.Leipämaa-LeskinenH. (2015). Pre-loved luxury: Identifying the meanings of second-hand luxury possessions. Journal of Product & Brand Management, 24(1), 57–65. https://doi.org/10.1108/JPBM-05-2014-0603
Ulker-DemirelE.CiftciG. (2020). A systematic literature review of the theory of planned behavior in tourism, leisure and hospitality management research. Journal of Hospitality and Tourism Management, 43, 209–219. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jhtm.2020.04.003
72.
WaightE. (2014). Second-hand consumption among middle-class mothers in the UK: Thrift, distinction and risk. Families, Relationships and Societies, 3(1), 159–162. https://doi.org/10.1332/204674313X13805551473134
73.
WangB.FuY.LiY. (2022). Young consumers’ motivations and barriers to the purchase of second-hand clothes: An empirical study of China. Waste Management, 143, 157–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wasman.2022.02.019
74.
XieC.BagozziR. P.ØstliJ. (2013). Cognitive, emotional, and sociocultural processes in consumption. Psychology and Marketing, 30(1), 12–25. https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.20585
75.
YanR. N.BaeS. Y.XuH. (2015). Second-hand clothing shopping among college students: The role of psychographic characteristics. Young Consumers, 16(1), 85–98. https://doi.org/10.1108/YC-02-2014-00429
