This guide introduces readers to some of the primary and secondary literature on clothing and adornment in antiquity, spanning ancient near eastern contexts to those of early Christianity. In particular, the discussion examines the social roles of these phenomena, including how they can function as symbols of power, status and honor. Gender issues also come to the fore, as women’s dress faces increasing scrutiny by male writers.
Barnes, R. & J. B. Eicher, eds. 1992. Dress and Gender. Making and Meaning in Cultural Contexts. Providence, RI/ Oxford, UK: Berg Publishers.
2.
Bartman, E.2001. "Hair and Artifice of Roman Female Adornment." American Journal of Archaeology105: 1-25.
3.
Batten, A.J.2009. "Neither Gold nor Braided Hair (1 Timothy 2.9; 1 Peter 3.3): Adornment, Gender and Honour in Antiquity."NTS55: 484-501.
4.
Berg, R.2002. "Wearing Wealth: Mundus Muliebris and Ornatus as Status Markers for Women in Imperial Rome" Pp. 15-73 in Women, Wealth and Power in the Roman Empire, edited by Pävi Setälä et al.; Acta Instituti Romani Finlandiae25; Rome, Italy: Institutum Romanum Finlandiae.
5.
Bertman, S.1961. "Tasseled Garments in the Ancient East Mediterranean." BA24: 119-128.
Charlesworth, J. H., ed. 1983. The Old Testament Pseudepigrapha. Volume 1. New York, NY : Doubleday.
8.
Clark, G.1993. Women in Late Antiquity. Pagan and Christian Lifestyles . Oxford, UK: Clarendon.
9.
Clark, E.A.1998. "Holy Women, Holy Words: Early Christian Women, Social History, and the ‘Linguistic Turn.’" JECS6: 413-30.
10.
1989. "Theory and Practice in Late Ancient Asceticism." JFSR5: 25-46.
11.
Cleland, L., M. Harlow, & L. Llewellyn-Jones., eds. 2005. The Clothed Body in the Ancient World. Oxford, UK: Oxbow.
12.
Colburn, C. S. & M. K. Heyn., eds. 2008. Reading a Dynamic Canvas: Adornment in the Ancient Mediterranean World. Newcastle , UK: Cambridge Scholars Publishing.
13.
Coon, L.L.1997. Sacred Fictions. Holy Women and Hagiography in Late Antiquity . Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania Press.
14.
Cox Miller, P.2005. Women in Early Christianity. Translations from Greek Texts . Washington, DC: Catholic University of America Press.
15.
Croom, A.T.2002. Roman Clothing and Fashion. Stroud , Gloucestershire, UK: Tempus .
16.
D’Ambra, E.2000. "Nudity and Adornment in Female Portrait Sculpture of the Second Century AD" Pp. 101-14 in I Claudia II: Women in Roman Art and Society, edited by D. E. E. Kleiner & S. B. Matheson.Austin, TX : University of Texas.
17.
D’Angelo, M.R.1995. "Veils, Virgins, and the Tongues of Men and Angels. Women’s Heads in Early Christianity." Pp. 131- 64 in Off with Her Head! The Denial of Women’s Identity in Myth, Religion and Culture, edited by H. Eilberg-Schwarz and W. Doniger.Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
18.
Davis, F.1992. Fashion, Culture, and Identity. Chicago, IL/ London, UK: University of Chicago Press.
19.
Dunn. G.D.2003. "Infected Sheep and Diseased Cattle, or the Pure and Holy Flock: Cyprian’s Pastoral Care of Virgins." JECS11: 1-20.
20.
Edmondson, J.2008. "Public Dress and Social Control in Late Republican and Early Imperial Rome" Pp. 21-46 in Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture, edited by J. Edmondson & A. Keith.Toronto, ON: University of Toronto Press.
21.
Edmondson, J. & A. Keith.2008. "Introduction" Pp. 1-17 in Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture, edited by J. Edmondson & A. Keith.Toronto: University of Toronto Press.
22.
Edwards, D.R.1992. "Dress and Ornamentation." AB2: 232-38.
23.
Eicher, J.B.2000. "The Anthropology of Dress." Dress27: 59-70.
24.
Eicher, J. B., ed. 1995. Dress and Ethnicity. Oxford, UK/ Washington, DC: Berg Publishers.
25.
Fletcher, J.2005. "The Decorated Body in Ancient Egypt: Hairstyles, Cosmetics and Tatoos" Pp.3-13 in The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, edited by L. Cleland, M. Harlow & L. Lloyd-Jones.Oxford, UK: Oxbow.
26.
Gawlinski, L.2008. "‘Fashioning’ Initiates: Dress at the Mysteries " Pp. 146-69 in Reading a Dynamic Canvas: Adornment in the Ancient Mediterranean World, edited by C. S. Colburn & M. K. Heyn.Newcastle, UK: Cambridge Scholars Publishing.
27.
Giroire, C. & D. Roger.2007. Roman Art from the Louvre. New York, NY: American Federation of Arts; Manchester, VT: Hudson Hills Press.
28.
Hodder, I.1982. Symbols in Action. Ethnoarchaeological Studies of Material Culture. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
29.
Horn Prouser, O.1996. "Suited to the Throne: The Symbolic Use of Clothing in the David and Saul Narratives." JSOT71: 27-37.
30.
Huddlestun, J.R.2002. "Divestiture, Deception, and Demotion: The Garment Motif in Genesis 37-39." JSOT98: 47-62.
31.
Kaiser, S.B.1985. The Social Psychology of Clothing and Personal Adornment . New York, NY: Macmillan.
32.
Kim, J.H.2004. The Significance of Clothing Imagery in the Pauline Corpus. JSNTSupp 268. London, UK: T & T Clark.
Leitao, D.D.1995. "The Perils of Leukippos: Initiatory Transvestism and Male Gender Ideology in the Ekdusia at Phaistos." Classical Antiquity14: 130-63.
35.
Livy.1935. History of Rome. LCL 295. Translated by E. T. Sage. London, UK: Heinemann; Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
36.
Luck, G.1985. Arcana Mundi : Magic and Occult in the Greek and Roman Worlds. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins University Press.
37.
Maier, H.2004. "Kleidung II." RAC21: 1-59.
38.
Marcar, A.2005. "Reconstructing Aegean Bronze Age Fashions" Pp. 30-43 in The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, edited by L. Cleland , M. Harlow, & L.Lloyd-Jones.Oxford, UK: Oxbow.
39.
Matthews, V.H.1995. "The Anthropology of Clothing in the Joseph Narrative ." JSOT65: 25-36.
40.
McDowell, D.1992. Dressed to Kill. Sex, Power and Clothes. London, UK: Hutchinson.
41.
Meyer, M.W.1987. The Ancient Mysteries. A Sourcebook. San Francisco, CA: Harper.
42.
Milgrom, J.1983. "Of Hems and Tassels: Rank, Authority and Holiness Were Expressed in Antiquity by Fringes on Garments." BARev9/3: 61-65.
43.
Neufeld, D.2005a. "Under the Cover of Clothing: Scripted Clothing Performances in the Apocalypse of John." BTB35: 67-76.
44.
2005b. "The Rhetoric of Body, Clothing and Identity in the Vita and Genesis." Scriptura90: 679-84.
45.
2002. "Sumptuous Clothing and Ornamentation in the Apocalypse ." HTS58: 664-89.
46.
Neyrey, J.H.1993. "Nudity" Pp. 119-25 in Biblical Social Values and Their Meaning, edited by J. J. Pilch & B. J. Malina.Peabody, MA: Hendrickson Publishers.
47.
Olson, K.2008. Dress and the Roman Woman. Self-presentation and Society . London, UK/New York, NY: Routledge.
48.
Polhemus, T. & L. Procter.1978. Fashion & Anti-Fashion. An Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment. London. UK: Thames & Hudson.
49.
Pölönen, J. " The Division of Wealth between Men and Women in Roman Succession (c.a. 50 BC-AD 250" Pp. 147-79 in Women, Wealth and Power in the Roman Empire , edited by Pävi Setälä et al.; Acta Instituti Romani Finlandiae25; Rome, Italy: Institutum Romanum Finlandiae.
50.
Pritchard, J. B., ed. 1969. Ancient Near Eastern Texts Relating to the Old Testament. 3rd ed. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press. (= ANE)
51.
Richlin, A.1995. "Making Up a Woman: The Face of Roman Gender" Pp. 185-213 in Off with Her Head! The Denial of Women’s Identity in Myth, Religion and Culture, edited by H. Eilberg-Schwartz & W. Doniger.Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
52.
Roach, M. E. & J. B. Eicher., eds. 1965. Dress, Adornment, and the Social Order. New York, NY: John Wiley & Sons.
53.
Roach, M.E. & J.B. Eicher.1979. "The Language of Personal Adornment" Pp. 7-21 in The Fabrics of Culture. The Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment, edited by J. M. Cordwell & R. A. Schwarz.The Hague, The Netherlands: Mouton.
54.
Roach-Higgins, M. E., J. B. Eicher, & K. K. P. Johnson, eds. 1995. Dress and Identity. New York, NY: Fairchild.
55.
Sciama, L. D. & J. B. Eicher. eds. 1998. Beads and Bead Makers. Gender, Material Culture and Meaning. Oxford, UK &New York, NY: Berg Publishers.
56.
Schneider, J.1987. "The Anthropology of Cloth." Annual Review of Anthropology16: 409-48.
57.
Schwarz, R.A.1979. "Uncovering the Secret Vice: Toward an Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment" Pp. 23-45 in The Fabrics of Culture. The Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment, edited by J. M. Cordwell & R. A. Schwarz.The Hague, The Netherlands: Mouton.
58.
Sebesta, J.L.1998. "Women’s Costume and Feminine Civic Morality in Augustan Rome" Pp. 105-17 in Gender and the Body in the Ancient Mediterranean , edited by M. Wyke.Oxford, UK: Blackwell.
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Shumka, L.2008. "Designing Women: The Representation of Women’s Toiletries on Funerary Monuments in Roman Italy" Pp. 172-91 in Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture, edited by J. Edmondson & A. Keith.Toronto, ON: University of Toronto Press.
60.
Stout, A.M.1994. "Jewelry as a Symbol of Status in the Roman Empire" Pp 77-100 in The World of Roman Costume, edited by J. L. Sebesta & L. Bonfante.Madison, WI: University of Wisconsin Press.
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Swift, E.2004. "Dress Accessories, Culture and Identity in the Late Roman Period." An Tard12: 217-22.
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Torjeson, Karen Jo.1993. When Women Were Priests. Women’s Leadership in the Early Church and the Scandal of their Subordination in the Rise of Christianity . San Francisco, CA: Harper.
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Tranberg Hansen, K.2004. "The World in Dress: Anthropological Perspectives on Clothing, Fashion, and Culture." Annual Review of Anthropology33: 369-92.
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Vermes, G.2004. The Complete Dead Sea Scrolls in English. London, UK: Penguin.
Vogelzang, M.E. & W. J. van Bekkum.1986. "Meaning and Symbolism of Clothing in Ancient Near Eastern Texts" Pp. 265-84 in Scripta Signa Vocis. Studies about Scripts, Scriptures and Scribes, and Languages in the Near East. Presented to J. H. Hospers by His Pupils, Colleagues and Friends, edited by H. L. J. Vanstiphout et al. Groningen , the Netherlands: E. Forsten.
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Weeber, K.-W.2003. Luxus im alten Rome: Die Schwelgerei, das süsse Gift . Darmstadt, Germany: Primus Verlag .
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Wyke, M.1994. "Woman in the Mirror: The Rhetoric of Adornment in the Roman World" Pp. 134-51 in Women in Ancient Societies. An Illusion in the Night, edited by L. J. Archer, S. Fischler & M. Wyke.London, UK: Macmillan.
