Nordic exceptionalism as settler urbanism: Sámi presence and urban contestation in Tromsø

Abstract

Tromsø is commonly represented as an inclusive and culturally diverse city, yet this narrative obscures how Indigenous Sámi presence is rendered conditional and public displays of ‘Sáminess’ risk being met with sanctions. Based on ethnographic fieldwork, this article examines Tromsø as a settler urban space and argues that the discourse of Nordic exceptionalism produces a distinctive mode of settler urbanism, where symbolic inclusion masks ongoing colonial structures. I show how Norwegianization endures, how tourism reproduces emblematic depictions of Sámi identity, and how racism continues to shape everyday encounters. At the same time, Sámi interlocutors actively contest these narratives by asserting visibility, reclaiming language, and challenging dominant representations. Interpreting these actions through the concept of survivance foregrounds Sámi urban belonging as the result of sustained Sámi efforts rather than inherent Norwegian inclusivity. The article contributes to debates on Indigenous urbanism by highlighting the specific workings of Nordic settler urbanism.