Effects of Synthappret BAP-Based Treatments on the Cuff-Edge Felting and Mechanical Properties of a Lightweight Woven Wool Fabric

Abstract

Cuff-edge felting of a pure wool shirting fabric treated with Synthappret BAP, either alone or in combination with a polyurethane or polyacrylate, has been examined. Using appropriate levels of polymer, cuff-edge felting was prevented after the recommended test of five 5A washing cycles in a Wascator. The inherent stiffness of the polymer-treated fabric was reduced by washing, decatizing or, especially, dry-cleaning; reductions in bending rigidity were accompanied by increases in extensibility. Scanning electron micrograph studies showed that mechanical action along a cuff edge during washing caused fiber damage and failure of the polymer. Mechanical action also occurred during dry-cleaning, and this lead to more severe cuff-edge felting as a result of subsequent washing. The level of weave crimp has a major bearing on cuff-edge felting.

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