Bound and free fatty acids in degreased wool fibers were affected to varying degrees by processing treatments. Scouring and dyeing both removed significant amounts of bound and free fatty acids from wool. Free fatty acids were reduced by dissolution into the treatment liquor, whereas bound fatty acids were hydrolyzed under the hot aqueous conditions. Chlorination at pH levels below 3 released over 50% of the bound fatty acids. Chlorine treatments cleave only thioesters but not oxygen esters or amides under these conditions, indicating that a significant proportion of the bound fatty acid is linked to wool by a thio ester bond.
Get full access to this article
View all access options for this article.
References
1.
ElliotR. L.ManogueB., An Electron Microscope Study of the Surface Structure of Wool, J. Soc. Dyers Colour.68, 12–14 (1952).
2.
EvansD. J.LeederJ. D.RipponJ. A.RivettD. E., Separation and Analysis of Surface Lipids of the Wool Fibre, in “Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Tokyo,” vol. I, 1985, pp. 135–142.
3.
HerrlingJ.ZahnH., Investigations of the Cell Membrane Complex and its Modification During Industrial Processing of Wool, in “Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Tokyo,” vol. I, 1985, pp. 181–193.
4.
KalkbrennerU.KornerN.HockerH.RivettD. E., Studies on the Lipid Composition of the Wool Cuticle, in “Proc. 8th Int. Wool Res. Conf. Christ-church,” vol. I, 1990, pp. 398–407.
5.
KopkeV.NilssenB., Wool Surface Properties and their Influence on Dye Uptake—A Microscopical Study, J. Textile Inst.51, T1398–T1413 (1960).
6.
KornerA., The Characterization of Internal Lipids of Industrially Processed Wool, Int. Wool Textile Organization Report no. 8, January 1988.
7.
LeaverI. H.LewisD. M.WestmorelandD. J., Analysis of Wool Lipids Using Thin Layer Chromatography with Flame Ionization Detection, Textile Res. J.58, 593–600 (1988).
LeederD. J.HoltL. A.RipponJ. A.StapletonI. W., Diffusion of Dyes and Other Reagents into the Wool Fibre, in “Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Tokyo,” vol. IV, 1985, pp. 227–238.
10.
LeederJ. D.RipponJ. A.RivettD. E., Modification of the Surface Properties of Wool by Treatment with Anhydrous Alkali, in “Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Tokyo,” vol. IV, 1985, pp. 312–3121.
11.
LeederD. J.RipponJ. A.RotheryF. E.StapletonI. W., Use of Transmission Electron Microscope to Study Dyeing and Diffusion Process, in “Proc. 7th Int. Wool Text. Res. Conf. Tokyo,” vol. V, 1985, pp. 99–108.
12.
LeederJ. D., The Cell Membrane Complex and its Influence on the Properties of the Wool Fibre, Wool Sci. Rev.63, 3–35 (1986).
13.
MaclarenJ. A.MilliganB., “Wool Science, The Chemical Reactivity of the Wool Fibre,”Science Press, Marrickville, Australia, 1981.
14.
MansourM. P.CornellH. J.HoltL. A.RivettD. E., The Effect of Solvent Extraction on the Hydro-thermal and Alkaline Stability of Wool, J. Textile Inst.80, 261–267 (1989).
15.
MorrisonW. R.SmithL. M., Preparation of Fatty Acid Methyl Esters and Dimethyl Acetate from Lipids with Boron Trifluoride-Methanol, J. Lipid Res.5, 600–608 (1964).
16.
NegriA. P.CornellH. J.RivettD. E., The Nature of Covalently Bound Fatty Acids in Wool Fibres, Aust. J. Agric. Res.42, 1285–1292 (1991).
17.
TrotmanE. R., “Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres,”6th ed., Griffin Press, London, 1984.
18.
WertzP. W.DowningD. T., Integral Lipids of Human Hair, Lipids23, 878–881 (1988).
