Cotton Fiber Morphology and Textile Performance Properties 1

Abstract

The morphology and physical performance properties of the cotton fiber are reviewed. The objective is to clarify interrelationships between cotton morphology and textile performance properties and to delineate approaches to improve chemically modified cotton fabrics. The review has been restricted primarily to subject matter that demonstrates basic principles. We have considered the effects upon morphology and physical performance that result from conventional pad-dry-cure crosslinking, crosslinking the fiber in the swollen state, simple substitution, and polymer deposition. The unique characteristics of fibers crosslinked after mercerization-restretching and of fibers crosslinked by the fixation-cure type of process are examined. The never-dried cotton fiber, the dried fiber of commerce, and the reswollen fiber are considered in detail. Chemical modification, especially that for development of resilience, can be detrimental or even disastrous to strength, abrasion resistance, hand, etc. Superior balance of strength, abrasion resistance, and resilience can be achieved with conventional cotton fabrics and conventional N-methylol reagents through processes in which the reagents penetrate to less accessible regions of the fiber and develop network polymeric crosslinkages. Alternately, mercerization-restretching of yarns before conversion to fabric subsequently finished by conventional crosslinking processes also leads to attractive balances of strength and resilience. The common feature that characterizes those cottons that have superior balances of performance properties and those that have that potential is a reduction and/or redistribution of internal strains in the cotton fiber.