Prediction of Stretch-Woven Fabric Behavior From False-Twist Textured Filament Yarn Properties

Abstract

This paper is concerned with the significance of stretch-textured yarn properties in relation to the character and properties of filling stretch fabrics constructed from them. The study deals with a series of commercially produced false-twist textured polyester and polyamide multifilament yarns having various filament and yarn denier combinations made under different stretch texture processing conditions. These yarns represent differ ent combinations of stretch and bulk texture and cover the range of shrinkage properties and yarn geometries usually employed in the construction of woven stretch fabrics.

Each of the false-twist textured yarns was used to construct filling stretch fabrics containing different combinations of weave type, weave texture, and warp yarn count. All of the test fabrics were commercially finished by conventional means to achieve maximum filling stretch potential and were subsequently tested to evaluate fabric stretch performance characteristics. Data obtained during the performance of this work have led to the conclusion that one can obtain a physically meaningful correlation between yam and fabric properties by considering retraction force in addition to linear yam shrinkage. fabric weave type, and fabric cover factors. Prediction of fabric stretch from the properties of false-twist textured yarns depends upon the ability of the yarn test and evaluation procedures to duplicate the loading and mechanical restraint histories experi enced by the yarn during its conversion into woven and finished fabric.

The merits of using loom-state as opposed to off-loom dimensions as a basis for computing fabric shrinkage and, hence, computing fabric stretch, are discussed.