Mount Everest and Makalu Cold Injury Amputation: 40 Years On

Abstract

Abstract

Morrison, Shawnda A., Juri Gorjanc, and Igor B. Mekjavic. Mount Everest and Makalu cold injury amputation: 40 years on. High Alt Med Biol. 15:78—83, 2014—Freezing cold injuries (frostbite) of the extremities are a common injury among alpinists participating in high altitude expeditions, particularly during inclement weather conditions. Anecdotally, a digit that has suffered frostbite may be at greater risk to future cold injuries. In this case study, we profile a 62-year-old elite alpinist who suffered multiple digit amputations on both his hands and foot after historic summit attempts on Makalu (8481 m) and Mt. Everest (8848 m) in 1974–1979. We describe the clinical treatment he received at that time, and follow up his case 40 years after the first incidence of frostbite utilizing a noninvasive evaluation of hand and foot function to a cold stress test, including rates of re-warming to both injured and non-injured digits. Finger rates of recovery to the cold stress test were not different (0.8 vs. 1.0°C·min⁻¹) except one (injured, left middle finger, distal phalanx; 0.4°C·min⁻¹). Toe recovery rates after cold-water immersion were identical between previously injured and non-injured toes (0.2°C·min⁻¹). Thermocouple data indicate that this alpinist's previous frostbite injuries may not have significantly altered his digit rates of re-warming during passive recovery compared to his non-injured digits.