Training for the New Alpinism serves as a coaching and training manual that can be used by anyone from individuals looking to train themselves for alpinism to those coaching and training alpine climbers. The book’s value will also be pertinent to medical providers conducting a preparticipation physical evaluation for an alpine climber before an expedition or event. Although training principles are not new, their applications toward alpinism have much to be discovered. Typically, climbers train by climbing, but by using science, progression toward athleticism in the mountains can be much improved. The authors have taken standard scientific principles of training and applied these to alpine climbing in a well-written text.

The first section overviews the methodology of training and concepts of exercise and sports physiology. Although dense, the chapters are well outlined, and the flow and readability are straightforward, punctuated by professional athlete stories. Sections 2 and 3 discuss the training plans, explaining time frames for transition training and moving on to the base period while providing sample schedules and exercises that include endurance, strength, and cardiovascular workouts. No book with goals for such breadth would be complete without discussing nutrition. Fortunately, not only do they explain the basic principles of energy sources but they also provide tables in the appendix of what foods to eat to fulfill specific nutritional needs. They wisely cover personal safety in a chapter dedicated to altitude. Later, they include a chapter on mental fitness and how to balance life and training.

For physicians or allied health providers working with athletes and adventurers in climbing sports and altitude, in particular those trained in wilderness medicine, this book will serve not only as a great read to improve one’s education and knowledge in this area but also as a great reference to provide to patients and clients interested in training for alpinism.